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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I have converted the LX to rear disk brakes, swapped the cross member and all. Great!!

Now do the distributions blocks differ? Or is this just the way these cars were built? With the bias at something like 80%(guess/exageration) to the front???

Senario: Booting down a gravel road I can lock up the front (testing). As for the back they don't lock up. what the hell!!

Yes I have bled the brakes, front and rear. Nice new fluid coming out every time.

Any suggestions???

D
 

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not sure about your cars, but my mates corolla failed its warrant because of a faulty valve, when testing the rear brkaes on the rollers, the two needles(L and R) went up together(good), but when the left stopped going up the right went sky high. after replacing the valve an infinite amount of peddle pressure resulted in no increase in rear braking on the rollers = pass.

summary as you depress you get more and more at both ends, at some point you stop getting more to the back. the pressure is regulated and limited.

see if you can find a brake roller and test both ends, the anologue style is nice for that purpose.

hope that helps :)

fred.
 

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How did you bleed the brakes? If you just used the old pedal pumping method there is probably still air in the system - that method is not very good at getting "slugs" of air out of the lines. Might need to resort to more advanced brake bleeding methods i.e. power bleeding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did the gravity bleed along with pedal bleeding. And was using the 1 man bleeder.

Am going to try out larger lines from block to the rear.... and go from there.

There is the possibility of air still being in there. This power bleeding, magik8, can u go into more detail?

Tnx everybody.

D
 

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Most larger auto repair shops do not use the pedal bleeding method, they use a machine called a "power bleeder" to bleed brakes. This machine uses compressed air to force fluid through the system and tends to work very well. Might be worth taking it to a shop with this equipment and having this done.
 

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larger lines are probably a bad idea, the air bubbles will have an easier time heading uphill against the flow of fluid with larger lines, with a smaller line so long as you bleed quickly the air gets carried along for the ride... i still think you have no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My though is regardless of line size, with in reason, bleed them as best u can. the bubbles will hopefully get pushed out. hopefully.

D
 

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I've noticed alot of rear disc vehicles don't seem to lock the rear wheels up like you would think. (Atleast mine and friends') My E-brake has never been able to lock the wheels, either.

If I tug the E-brake and push the lever back down, I have to pump the pedal to take up the slack in the line. Any thoughts? Rusted cable? Spring on the calipers? Should I just make an adjustment to the cable? I can't remember if the rear wheels are hard to move when there is slack in the line, as if the brakes were sticking. If so, then I doubt I would need to adjust the line.
 

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when i bled my brakes a while ago i took for a test drive and the rear brakes wont lock up at all. which is a good thing in the case of accident you wont go sideways from rear wheel lock up.
 

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in my girls levin it is very hard to lock the (disk) rear with the hand brake. holds the car fine on a steep hill, everything is adjusted, just designed that way i guess. my skylines rear end uses drums for the handbrake, and disks for the peddle. seems like a pain, but means you can use what ever compound pads, and the shoes last forever.
 

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Yeah, I've always found rear drum brakes to lock up and discs don't want to. The way mine is now...it holds the car fine on a hill and everything, but if I see a cop and im going too fast....I mash on the e-brake so he doesn't see my brake lights ;) The thing is though...is that I want the wheels to lock up lol. Sure, I wouldn't be able to deceive an officer anymore, but it sure would be fun sometimes. (In a controlled environment)
 
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