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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought some really good pads and they work well but leave dust all over my wheels.
Should I get slotted or drilled rotors and what has anyone found thats compatible? They do work very well but as more powers being added to the car I want more brakes ( fast but safe)
 

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ive got EBA slotted and blind drilled rotors, had them 2 years, no complaints from me.

steer away from drilled, as these crack, and a few people have complained that the DBA rotors tend to warp, though the ones on my mums 626 have been there for a year a bit now with no issues
 

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Slotted is ok, but still rather wank factor I would say. Ive seen cars that get pretty serious track work, and they just have massive standard (blank) rotors.

Im quite happy with my DBA slotted disks.
 

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in terms of brakes slotted is all you wil lever really need.

Go look at top rally cars - weekend circuit etc 80% all use just large slotted rotors.

the slots are the only things that help. What is deos is remove gas build up. in fact I remember reading one engineering paper - that claimed for short type large quick heat shots. Like consistant cornering short not too deep multiple cuts are most effective.
On more longer consistant temps - EG where you have long straight etc. Or sections where your braking effort is over a longer period. EG end of Bathurst- conrod straight into the chase. Your better off with fewer slightly deep longer cuts.

But I can - regardless if your dealign with stock 260mm brakes EG 1st gen or 2nd gens 258mm - Minimal leverage and well - Even stock Mazda sp23 brakes are bigger.

but good pad selections and a slootted rotor wil lbring out the best in them, as long as everything else is in same top condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
they did seem to be brilliant but launceston has steep hills and some unreal corners, there are some fantastic roads here so they can feel worn after decent driving..

on a different note been reading insppection manual for when i do re-register, its very in depth.

good news though so long as the car doesn't emit more than 90 db from half a meter i will be okay with that ( only have 3" pipe , flex joint and cannon. but at idle once warm its not too bad... thinking bout turfing the cannon for something more street, maybe just a 3" tip
 

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For a while I was always heating up my brakes through a decent run (when I wasnt a pussy like now) and it wasnt until I got some decent (ie expensive) brake fluid in there the the I could maintain pedal pressure from start to finish.
 

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slotted rotors + Lucas TRW pads + a decent fluid but by no means a racing fluid.

Took that combo out to wakefield and was braking pretty late into the corners. I lost FULL pedal pressure pretty quick but braking performance never went down. Just meant I had to push harder on the pedal.

So just warm brakes but no brake fade.
 
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