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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was just wondering if there is something I should know about this car before I buy it.

Like how the headgaskets go on ford 3.8s and 2.2 gm motors, as well as coolant leaking 3.1s and leaky diffs.

Its a red conv, 5 speed with 70K, $2000 obo, Im gonna try to get him down to $1500, being the cost to do the jdm swap $1500.
 

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ok, rx7s are notorious for blowing engines. apex seals go out on them frequently. ALSO, the seals that keep the coolant out of the rotor housings like to go as well. and as its at 70k, that engine is about toast, they dont last more then 70k usually. id see if it has any hard starting issues, and DONT let him drive it to you, go look at the car yourself. also try and start it cold, if it doesnt want to crank, tell him no, the apex seals are gone. make sure it wasnt prewarmed up either, feel the hood and the uppper intake as well as the radiator cap, make sure none of them are warm, if they are, tell him your going to wait till it completelly cools down. other then the engines blowing like crazy, and the convertibles have top issues, its a good car!, oh also they like to explode trannies.
 

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my 79 had 119k on it =X, on an older rotary...the apex seals did go though, and that was that...another 150dollar beater to the junkyard.

i thought the thing was fun...if it's not too mechanically messed up. small, rear wheel drive car you can rev to the sky. i don't know about the newer cars, but my diff gave me some troubles...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I heard that the motors are very easy to rebuild. Am I going to find alot of trouble finding parts for this?

Why is it that everyone is saying I should get it and do an LS1 swap? Is it that easy?

The JDM swap includes a 30K-50K motor and tranny, ecu, and other swap parts, is it worth it since its a jdm engine, or what?
 

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Keep it a rotary man. JDM swap is fine just make sure youre buying from a reputable importer.

Make sure its in pretty good condition for $1500.. but hey my boy has one and its one helluva fun car. Small + rear wheel drive = always fun to drive =). I almost got one myself for $500 except it wasnt a vert... and it was auto =( non turbo =( =(.

Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Do you guys know of any good sites the explain the motor? Is there any other tests or things to look for to see it its about to go?

Thanks guys.

It strange that now I have my 6 just about done and perfect besides paint and alignment, that I want to start on something I have no Idea about.
 

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www.rx7club.com

that's a great place to check out all about rx7s, very informative...

-mark
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just checked out that site which let me to another, and all I have to say, I OH MY F(#(*#$* GOD!!!!

Get this, I was going to wait till my parents get back from Cali to get a loan to get this car, but (*$(*## that, Im getting in my safe to get my 1921 Watermans gold fountain pen out and selling that mother #(*[email protected]@. OH MY GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hoping to get $3K out of it.

Im still going to talk him down.
 

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RX7's are not good cars for the uninformed. I'd do a lot of homework before diving into the rotary world.
 

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88mx6gthybrid said:
I heard that the motors are very easy to rebuild. Am I going to find alot of trouble finding parts for this?

Why is it that everyone is saying I should get it and do an LS1 swap? Is it that easy?

The JDM swap includes a 30K-50K motor and tranny, ecu, and other swap parts, is it worth it since its a jdm engine, or what?
it's the same reason LS1's and 5.0's get swapped into Z cars. EXTREMELY lightweight vehicles, parts for the engines and transmissions are a helluva lot cheaper than older mazda rotory parts, and you'll drop ~3 seconds off of your 1/4 time as well.

a 350 dropped into a Z car will take the stock high 16 low 17 second time and turn it into a high 13 low 14 second car. i believe the rx7 is lighter than a Z as well...Z's weigh in at around 2400 lbs (even though they are *listed* as 3000lbs cars).
 

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roaries are actually fairly dependable provided they are maintained. ie. frequent oil changes, flush coolant regularly, etc.... I test drove a 90 na rx7 but the torque just wasn't there. but a v8 would fix that, although i prefer the rotary. but yah still pretty quick and an extremley light weight.
 

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Warning, this is not Kenzie, this is her boyfreind.::::::::::::::::::::::


I have seen alot of misinformation here.


If you are looking into buying a second gen Rx-7.........

1. Ask about the mileage, I bought mine with about 120k on it for 1400.

2. Ask if it has trouble starting, this could be one of many things such as: Cats are stopped up (mine when I got it), leaky fuel injectors, timing is way out, or the motor is so low on compression its not funny.

3. Ask how often the oil has been changed, second gens use 10-40 oil and it should be changed every 3k, spark plugs are changed with the oil as well.

4. Ask if it has been overheated. If it has DO NOT BUY IT, unless you like spending money.

5. Inspect the oil cooler lines, if they look flaky or are leaky, chances are the car has been run low on oil alot, again dont buy unless you like spending money. If they leak just a small amount cork sport sells SS braided lines for about 130, they are the best investment you can make for the car

6. Start the vehicle yourself, as previously stated. If it starts right up, chances are you are in the good. It should rev up to about 3k then slowly go back down to about 750 to 900.

7. Let the car idle untill warmed up to temp, DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR UNTILL UP TO TEMP, if you do you are killing the motor before you even buy it. Keep an eye on the temp gauge S4's (86-88) should stay about 1/4 the way up the gauge, and with the ac on, it works( which it probably doesnt), should be slightly higher.

8. Drive the car, be warned the shifter probably will be loose, it is a 7 thing, you can fix that cheaply by buying a short shifter for a miata, fits great I have one in mine. While driving the car listen for a thumping when taking off or under sudden acceleration. If you here it, it is the diff mount, which is a bitch to replace, trust me I just did mine. The car of course should drive smooth and straight.

9. Physically look at the car, the back wheels will more than likly have 2 to 5 degrees of camber, its fairly normal for this to happen. The hatch should operate freely, doors shut good, and the handles not be broken, if they are you will pay out your ass for new ones. The lights should go up and down of course. The hood should shut good but usually wont, if you have to slam it dont worry about it to much.

10. After driving the car and shuting it off, try to hot start it. If it starts fine, you are looking good. If not again do not buy this POS, unless you like spending money.



If everything above is good or okay, you might be getting one hell of a deal for 1500 bucks. If you have any questions more fell free to look me up or just visit and become a member of Nopistons.com (fc3s4utnv). Rx7club.com has alot of bullshit, but has alot of good tech info as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok, I forgot to mention, I went to check the car out one day, it was about 40deg out, he went out to the car and let me start it, It turned over 3 times and fired.

The rear mufflers are toast, but I can easily fix that by cutting them off. Where are the oil cooler lines located and where should I look for the leak?
 

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88mx6gthybrid said:
Where are the oil cooler lines located and where should I look for the leak?
I think we have some pics around here somewhere. I'll try to post them up tonight.
 
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Ok, found the pics.
These were taken right after my boyfriend installed the new Corksport SS lines.
NOTE: The SS line running on the right side from beside the rad. to the underside of the engine. (Sorry I was going to add arrows but didn't get a chance.)
Here's a link to the CS SS lines, they're definitly a good investment!
Corksport.com/store/category/4ltp/2rx-Engine.html


 

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if you think you can do it, i'd go with the smallblock swap...even a mildly built 350 would make the car a screamer...drive it for the winter, build a v8...drop it in, and your ready for summer.

there's more than just the motor to worry about, but you can get a carbureted 350 for dirt cheap ($150-$200 for a running 4bolt mains), rebuild w/ cam, intake, carb, maybe 1.65 roller rockers, and your easily set for 300hp. Chevy's are incredibly inexpensive to build.

i think the hp/dollar ratio would be a lot better than turbo'ing an N/A...and you get more hp, period. (and lOW END TORQUE OMFGAHHH):D
 

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ummm I think people are forgetting the best part of the rx7, the handling balance, if you put a v8 in it youd fuck it all to hell. those cars were AWESOEM ni the twisties, though in a traight line they werent that shabby either. Rx7s have ALWAYS been handling monsters, so dont fuck that up with a v8, if your gonna drop a v8 in it, do it in something stupid, like an old 200sx. dont waste a perfectly good rex.
 
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