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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, I have a 1st gen Probe as my daily in Spain, and just blew the tranny for the second time. First time was 10 years ago and I was lucky enough to find a replacement, but in 2020 it looks like you can´t find F2T parts anywhere in Europe anymore. Not even in Germany where the car was actually sold. How about you there? My last hope if I don't find one around here would be to pay the crazy shipment from the US.

It sucks that our cars are becoming so rare, but I refuse to give up, this was the car I fell in love with and I will take it to my grave.
 

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I have a spare h type transmission. It pops out of fifth gear I am assuming the fifth/reverse hub is the problem. I actually have the top cover disassembled right now. There seems to be some transmission parts available in the states for the manual transmissions anyway.
 

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Okay, sounds like your differential shaft sheared the roll pin and destroyed your differential.
I might have a usable differential body with final drive gear and bearings.
You would need to buy 2 pinion gears and bearing washers, 2 axle gears and bearing washers, a new pinion shaft and another roll pin.
I can only find some of the full part numbers on old dealership receipts.
These parts are still available and not to expensive (they are used on several other model mazda's)
Differential Pinion Gear part number M025-27-255E
Pinion Gear bearings part number M025-27-256
Differential Shaft part number M025-27-261A
Roll pin 99222-0528

These parts I found numbers for online, they are harder to find :
Axle gear bearings part number H001-27-252A
Differential side gear part number H001-27-251A
Differential Case part number H001-27-180 or H001-22-180

Differential side gear part number H001-27-251 has gone through A,B,C and is now at D
H001-27-251D but I can't confirm it's the same part.




Here is a link with more manual turbo transmission part numbers:
USA, 1988 MX-6, CHASSIS AXLE SUSPENSION & STEERING, 2700 A - FRONT DIFFERENTIALS (MANUAL TRANSMISSION) (TURBO) - Catcar.info

If I do have a differential it would include 17-341B (speedometer gear) and 27-305 (X2) (bearings).

Part number 27-401 is a floating shim, yours can be reused and 27-238 are the axle seals that go on the outside of transmission case.

So you need the 9 pieces at the bottom center of the diagram and the stupid roll pin that cost you your transmission.

If you can get everything you need to rebuild your transmission I strongly recommend, insist, you'd be a fool not to: Install the roll pin 99222-0528 to position the differential shaft then Have the differential shaft 27-261 welded to the differential 22-180 at both ends of the shaft. The tiny roll pin 99222-0528 will no longer hold the differential together the welds will and this (differential destroying itself) will never happen again.


You should search for the ford parts numbers and then try and find those part numbers on ebay...
 

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1989-1992 Ford probe differential side gear.
Part number E92Z-4236-C

Found 1 on Ebay.com last night, the seller is asking $3.51 US for a new side gear. He only ships to the US, I messaged him to see if he would ship to Canada, he messaged back 45$ US for shipping. I figured I you get a diff housing from me I could ship this to you at the same time but 45$ is insane.
Perhaps one of the US members would be willing to buy it for you and ship it to Spain.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
WOw, I don't have enough words to thank you. You literally saved my life out here. I already got my hands on a broken transmission that I could find and started salvaging it. But this is most valuable info. Specially in years to come since my car must be 1 of around 10 in Spain.

The guys at the workshop said they are working on the salvaged gearbox so if all goes well I can keep a while without having to buy more parts.

Also, I understand the F2T transmission is the best that would fit its engine right? I find it kinda crappy and I wonder if you could put another mazda transmission in there that would last longer.
 

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Unfortunately the F2T transmission is one of the strongest mazda built and the strongest that will bolt to your engine. If you have the differential shaft welded to the differential housing you shouldn't have any problems until you make enough torque and power to shred 3rd gear.
Non turbo transmissions, Fe and F2 will bolt to the engine but you need the dust shield, transmission mounts, clutch assembly and pressure plate, clutch slave and shifter assembly and everything is weaker than the turbo version.

If all else fails I might consider selling you a turbo transmission, if you want a deal I will sell you everything to instal a non turbo transmission for 200$+ shipping (Transmission, clutch, flywheel, plate, shifter assembly, bolts, mounts and slave cylinder).

Insist on having the differential shaft welded in place.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I'm gonna make around 250hp with this new turbo I'm throwing at the F2T so I'm not so confident in this transmission :(
 

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Well I'm gonna make around 250hp with this new turbo I'm throwing at the F2T so I'm not so confident in this transmission :(
Well HP doesn't kill the transmission sudden torque does, since 2004 I have been running larger turbo's on F2T's and every car is a lot faster than on the factory turbo maxed out but the instant torque of the factory turbo killed a lot more transmissions that the Garretts. I shredded 3rd gear twice in 16years but had no differential failures.
Honda's can make 500hp on the stock transmission because they make very little torque and the power band gradually climbs to redline. I bet the 190ft torque band of a factory F2T would kill the Honda transmission.

Aside from welding the differential shaft.
Another thing that is very important in keeping the transmission alive is eliminating torque steer or control arm lateral travel (moving forwards and backwards), when you drive and the car pulls to one side or the other under acceleration the pinion and side gears in the differential are spinning and power/torque/momentum in going through them, when the car accelerates in a straight line then the differential is turning as a solid unit and all the power is sent to the wheels.

Why is it really bad for the differential gears to spin in a straight line or when doing a burnout, why would it be any worse on the differential than turning a corner under full acceleration?
Because of the ratios, when making a hard right turn with a wheel diameter of say 25" , the wheels circumference is 78.5" and the corner is 60 feet. The right wheel will need to make 9.16 rotations to cover 60 feet, The left wheel, the outside wheel will have to travel a farther distance so lets say it travels 72 feet, and will need to make 11 rotations to travel that distance, because the diff cant speed up the rotation of the outer left wheel it will reduce the rotations of the right wheel by a rate of 1:0.81 or roughly 20% reduction over 72feet of travel so the differential transfers 20% of one wheels power to the other wheel .
When only one wheel delivers power during a burnout or straight line acceleration the ratio is 1:0 now the diff transfers 100% of the power to the other wheel so 5x the load on the differential pinions, gears and shaft.

Factory control arms use two different bushings, the front bushing is in a metal sleeve and is stiffer than the rear bushing that is just rubber, Installing 4 new metal sleeved control arm bushings reduces control arm movement and (with a proper alignment) reduces or eliminates torque steer putting all the power to the wheel without sending any through the differential gears and pinions.

Also there are ways to control you turbos boost deliver to the engine (control your powerband), progressive rate boost controllers or something like Synapse Engineering's Synchronic wastegate, can be adjusted in all sorts of was and can be use to deliver a rising rate of boost to minimize wheel spin and deliver a smooth powerband.

Official Turbo Wastegates | WG, 40mm, 50 turbo wastegate
 
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