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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok i just got done putting a whole bunch of wires in. well iot turns out my alarm is acting funny and so is my car. its an avital 6500 system. anyways here's a list of wires i put in and where i put them if you guys know if any of them are wrong please tell me:

FACTORY DISARM WIRE - YEL/RED - BACK OF FUSE BOX

BRAKE WIRE - WHT/GRN (+) - THERE ARE TWO OF THEM ON THE BRAKE SWITCH WHICH ONE IS IT OR BOTH??

TACH SENSOR WIRE - YEL - AT DISTRIBUTOR (I SPLICED IT INTO THE YELLOW WIRE AT THE NARNESS)

PARKING LIGHTS - ORN (+) - LOTS OF DISCUSSION ON THIS ONE, ENDED UP DOING IT ON THE WIRE IN THE FRONT OF THE FUSE BOX. NOW MY DIMMER SWITCH DOESN'T WORK. OUR PARKING LIGHTS ARE NEGATIVE TRIGGER RIGHT?

Greg I know you know all about this stuff so your help would be much appreciated.
 

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syliconex said:

FACTORY DISARM WIRE - YEL/RED - BACK OF FUSE BOX

BRAKE WIRE - WHT/GRN (+) - THERE ARE TWO OF THEM ON THE BRAKE SWITCH WHICH ONE IS IT OR BOTH??

TACH SENSOR WIRE - YEL - AT DISTRIBUTOR (I SPLICED IT INTO THE YELLOW WIRE AT THE NARNESS)

PARKING LIGHTS - ORN (+) - LOTS OF DISCUSSION ON THIS ONE, ENDED UP DOING IT ON THE WIRE IN THE FRONT OF THE FUSE BOX. NOW MY DIMMER SWITCH DOESN'T WORK. OUR PARKING LIGHTS ARE NEGATIVE TRIGGER RIGHT?

Greg I know you know all about this stuff so your help would be much appreciated.

The factory disarm wire is the yellow w/red but you shouldn't need to hook it up as the factory alarm will only turn on if you physically lock the door with the key. Just lock the door with tyhe alarm remote and you don't have to worry about it.

For the brake switch you need the wire that has +12 volts when you push on the brake. The other wire is the supply voltage and doesn't change.

The tach sense wire will be the one that reads approximately 6 volts AC and changes with the rpms. You have to test this with a multimeter set to AC(alternating current) as it will not test properly any ohter way. You may find it easier to get it at the back of the instrument cluster, all you need to do is trace the circuit that goes from the tach to the wire at the plug and then test it to make certain it's the right one.

No, the parking lights are positive trigger not negative. The only place you might find a negative trigger for them is at the actual headlight switch stalk. The wire you need will show 12 volts when the lights are turned on and will not change more than 1 volts when you turn the dimmer switch up or down. Also make sure you have the output for the alarm set for positive and not negative. If you have tapped the wrong wire and actually got the dimmer line you most likely will have blown a fuse or burnt out the dimmer switch.

Retest these and try hooking it up again.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
mike

hey thanks a lot it turns out i had a couple of those wires in the wrong places. now my only problem is that the alarm seems to arm itself occasionally while i'm driving, why would it do this? also, the alarm came with a valet switch which doesn't seem to work.
 

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If it is arming while you are driving then the ignition sense wire is not connected correctly. It should be to a wire that has power when the key is in the on position and stays on while cranking.
About the valet, is it a double action rocker switch? Mreeaning does it rest int eh mddle and can be pushed either direction? One direction being latched and the other not? Or it stays on one side and springs back fromt eh other. If so then try pushing it to the spring loaded side twice and then pushing it to the latched position. This is the sequence that Clifford last used before they went away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i actually hadn't gotten to any of the ignition wires yet could that be the problem? as far as the valet switch i think its a SPST switch, like its either off or its on, no in between. when i plug that into the control unit along with the little LED wire it comes with the led does not light up and the switch seems to do nothing. the led is supposed to come on when the switch is flipped to the on position. i kinda need the switch because its what i use to program some of the features.

the directions are that you turn the car on, turn it off, then turn the key to the on position, then flick the valet swtich, and every sequence of off then on the alarm is supposed to chirp, which of course it doesn't do.

i think i'm also going to venture to try and install the remote start part myself next. i know i have to do something special because my car is stick. anyways, i know NOTHING about the ignition system so could you point me towards these five wires??

1 - Starter Interrupt Switch Side
2 - Heater/AC Output
3 - Starter Interrupt Starter Side
4 - Ignition Output(do we only have one ignition wire?)
 

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I hate avital

Well I had the same alarm that I bought off the internet but I had someone install it , it took them 4 hours to figure out that the alarm wasnt working right and I still had to pay them 165 dollars for the install. I went to contact avital through the internet and guess what ? tehy went out of buisness 2 years ago and all warrantees by them are useless because dei bought out there stock and is juts selling them off and not backing there warrantees.
 

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Close but not quite. Avital was bought by Clifford Electronis around 2 years ago, but Clifford filed for bankruptcy 8 months ago. DEI basically bought out the remiander for the patents rights. Clifford had most of the innovative stuff out there.
 
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