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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, this really sucks. I'm suppose to start a new job today and when I go out to my car, the damn thing won't start. Of course it has to happen on my first #&$%ing day of a new job!

Whew, I feel a little better. Ok, here's where I need some help. The error code is 4. Now I know that it's the NE1 Crankshaft Position Sensor, but I'm not sure what I need to do to fix it. Can anyone give me any advice please!!!! I really don't want to have to miss a second day.
 

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94mx-6 said:
Ok, this really sucks. I'm suppose to start a new job today and when I go out to my car, the damn thing won't start. Of course it has to happen on my first #&$%ing day of a new job!

Whew, I feel a little better. Ok, here's where I need some help. The error code is 4. Now I know that it's the NE1 Crankshaft Position Sensor, but I'm not sure what I need to do to fix it. Can anyone give me any advice please!!!! I really don't want to have to miss a second day.
Assuming all the wiring is okay to the distributor and the PCME, the problem will likely require replacement of the igniter in the distributor (NE1 is mounted to the igniter.)

In a pinch, the car might start if it is push-started: turn the ignition on, get it rolling forward and pop the clutch in 2nd or 3rd gear to spin the motor over. With the key in the "run" position, the PCM will look at the NE2 sensor (it uses the NE1 sensor when cranking.) Something to try if you're desperate to get somewhere, anyway. No guarantees though.
 
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me 2

I was just coming on here to post the same prob. My car is an atx, v6 94 ls. Anyway, battery is fine, boosting won't help and gas line antifreeze (long shot!) didn't help.

Towed it to the shop and they say it's not getting any spark. He yanked off a plug wire and stuck a knife in the end?!?! Anyway, he put in a new igniter module (Like Mike said) but still no go. Puppy costs $400 canadian. Mechanic was suprised it didn't go. He says that this is a big prob for mazda's (igniter thing). He's wondering if Mazda gave him the wrong one, but it's after 5:00 so he can't check with them till tomorrow.

Mike (or anyone) any clue what's up? I have NEVER had a prob starting the old girl. Only has 74,000 k's on it. And it lives in a garage. Just refused to go one morning. Plug wires are fine, they are only a couple of months old, unless they put the wrong ones on, but I don't thingk so.

Is there an aftermarket alternative to these pricey mazda igniters?

Thanks guys, especially Mike, your knowledge of these probe's/mx-6's is amazing.
 

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Re: me 2

ZoomZoom said:
I was just coming on here to post the same prob. My car is an atx, v6 94 ls. Anyway, battery is fine, boosting won't help and gas line antifreeze (long shot!) didn't help.

Towed it to the shop and they say it's not getting any spark. He yanked off a plug wire and stuck a knife in the end?!?! Anyway, he put in a new igniter module (Like Mike said) but still no go. Puppy costs $400 canadian. Mechanic was suprised it didn't go. He says that this is a big prob for mazda's (igniter thing). He's wondering if Mazda gave him the wrong one, but it's after 5:00 so he can't check with them till tomorrow.
He's right that the igniter is a problem area for the 93-94 V6 cars, so at least he's not giving you the gears there.

Before I would have replaced the igniter, I would have performed a few simpler tests: does the CEL (check engine light) come on when the ignition is turned on? Perhaps the PCM fuse has blown (due to, say, a bad solenoid) and the igniter & PCM etc isn't even getting power...

Is there an aftermarket alternative to these pricey mazda igniters?
I know of one or two guys who've built transistor add-ons to bypass the goofy igniter transistor (you can't bypass the whole igniter because the NE1 and G sensors are on it) but I can't vouch for reliability.

Go to my web site and go to the Links page. Look for Mike Paszti's site. He's got a conversion and even whipped up a PowerPoint presentation to show how to install it.

But, FWIW, I don't think the igniter is the problem in this case since replacing it did nothing for the problem.
 
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fuses ok

Forgot to mention that part...Ya the fuses have all been checked, and re-checked after the new igniter was installed. Is that fuse in with all the others? He mentioned that the new igniter looked somewhat different. That's why he's wondering if it's the wrong model. I think he brushed it off at first b/c it's a newer model, but when it didn't work he grew suspicous.

I can't remember 100% for sure if the check engine light comes on or not. Don't they usually come on when you have the ignition turned on, but the engine isn't running? I don't remember noticing anything out of the ordinary.

I seems to me like it's not getting fuel, even when I pumped the throttle (was desperate), I couldn't smell any. The Throttle arm was moving though.

So if the fuses are all ok, do you have a plan b? Thanks Mike. As you can tell I'm car-illiterate.

[Edited by ZoomZoom on 03-05-2001 at 07:00 PM]
 

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Re: fuses ok

ZoomZoom said:
Forgot to mention that part...Ya the fuses have all been checked, and re-checked after the new igniter was installed. Is that fuse in with all the others? He mentioned that the new igniter looked somewhat different. That's why he's wondering if it's the wrong model. I think he brushed it off at first b/c it's a newer model, but when it didn't work he grew suspicous.
Go to my web page and look under "Disty Fix" I've got a picture of the old and new igniters side by side. See if you/he recognizes the differences you/he noted.

I can't remember 100% for sure if the check engine light comes on or not. Don't they usually come on when you have the ignition turned on, but the engine isn't running? I don't remember noticing anything out of the ordinary.
Yes, it should come on. At that point, it's part "bulb test", part "engine not running" indicator.

I seems to me like it's not getting fuel, even when I pumped the throttle (was desperate), I couldn't smell any. The Throttle arm was moving though.
The PCM won't inject any gas when you pump the throttle, when cranking (i.e. over and above what it normally injects during cranking). However, if the PCM isn't getting NE1 signals (crank position sensor on the igniter), it won't inject fuel during cranking at all. Besides, there's no spark (right?) so I wouldn't turn my attention to the fuel system yet.

If the igniter has been replaced, the distributor and PCM are getting power and there's still no spark, I'd:

- remove the distributor cap and crank the engine. Make sure the rotor actually turns as the engine is cranking. If it's not, you've got a timing belt or camshaft issue.
- pull any PCM codes (use the procedure on my site, under "Malf Codes") and look for a code 04, indicating a bad NE1 sensor on the new igniter
- remove the coil from the distributor and check the primary and secondary resistances - perhaps it has blown open



[Edited by Mike 94PGT on 03-06-2001 at 03:11 PM]
 
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Thanks again Mike (I was using this dumb ZoomZoom account cause I forgot my password). I have not had a chance to check your website yet, or spend time with the old girl. But I spoke to the mechanic and told me he's waiting for a coil to arrive from mazda and he'll try that first thing tomorrow. If he still has no luck I think I'll tow it home and thorougly check your website ideas.

Thanks a bunch
 
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