Clutch pedal or something problem

3942 Views 12 Replies 3 Participants Last post by nate_v8, Oct 3, 2008

nate_v8

Discussion Starter · Oct 1, 2008

Ok I have replaced my clutch master and slave cylinder(last year) as well as a new clutch. I have been driving on the clutch for about a month and I have been having trouble with it slipping when shift quicker and attempt to accelerate quicker. I have a ze with about all the bolt ons, but even with all that I don't think this exceeds the capability of the oem clutch, even paired with the 11lb flywheel. I noticed yesterday that my clutch pedal wasn't coming completely up when I pushed the clutch all the way to the floor, but if I would lightly start to push on the accelerator and then pull the clutch pedal the rest of the way up with my foot it would grip all of a sudden(thus I spun coming out of Arby's yesterday). I had the rod on the clutch pedal adjusted all the way out before so last night I readjusted it so the master cylinder wasn't pushed as far as the pedal could go hoping this would fix the problem, but it didn't although it is somewhat better(this could also be attributed to me knowing not to completely push in the pedal). Is it possible that the spring on the clutch pedal needs replaced? If pulling the pedal up helps to engage the clutch it would seem this would help? Any ideas?

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midnightmekanik

· #2 · Oct 1, 2008

There's few things to consider...

Possibly the system wasn't properly bled, air in the lines can do that.

Clutch fork or release bearing misaligned, not allowing the pressure plate to engage fully unless you give it a "helping foot"

Or it could very well be the spring on the pedal itself.

I was going to say maybe your clutch is glazed, but you said if you pull up the pedal it engages just fine.

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PaulG

· #3 · Oct 1, 2008

Since you said that pulling the pedal up helps, I would say that it's something that's binding under the dash. Take a quick look, you might spot something obvious. The other things it could be is the release bearing sticking, or the pressure plate has a problem, but I would lean towards investigating the pedal itself first.

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nate_v8

Discussion Starter · #4 · Oct 1, 2008

I'm sure that the clutch was bled properly. I did notice a while back there is a point where the spring actually seems to stick the pedal to the floor if there is no pressure behind it. I just didn't really think that the spring really had enough tension on it to hold the pedal down. I did the clutch by myself and it isn't the first time I've changed a clutch. I didn't notice anything that was out of sorts with the clutch fork, but I could have missed something. I will get back under the dash tonight if I have time and take another look.

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midnightmekanik

· #5 · Oct 1, 2008

If you noticed the pedal sticking to the floor, there was no pressure to push it back up. I had the pedal out (doing my atx-mtx swap), and the spring applies pressure to a certain point. Once you pass that point, the pedal almost "clicked" and stayed down. Once I pulled the pedal up ~2" the spring took effect and sprung the pedal back up. Now hearing this, I would bleed the system again because it starting to sound more and more like air in the lines...

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nate_v8

Discussion Starter · #6 · Oct 1, 2008

The pedal no longer sticks to the floor like it does when the line is full of air, it just doesn't completely come up and when I pull it up the clutch will fully engage.

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PaulG

· #7 · Oct 1, 2008

It doesn't sound like air in the lines. When air is in the lines, the clutch won't rebound all the way up, but the clutch will still disengage fully. Since your clutch doesn't disengage until you pull the pedal all the way up, I'd say it's a different issue.

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nate_v8

Discussion Starter · #8 · Oct 2, 2008

I laid on my back under the dash for quite some time last night pushing the pedal all the way down and then gently letting it out. I noticed that the goofy ass spring that is connected to the top of the clutch pedal is completely wore out and is actually kind of putting a bind on the plunger in the center of the master cylinder. The plunger stops about 1/8" from coming against the c-clip and fully allowing the clutch to engage. When I would push in the pedal and quickly pull it back the plunger would come completely out with no problems.

I'm thinking about going to the local hardware store today and getting a regular spring and a couple of washers and seeing if I can rig something up between the pedal and cylinder around the rod that pushes the plunger. If that makes any sense.

Oh and I found out I'm a quart low last night and I have a small leak under the rear valve cover, also this morning I found out I'm leaking out from under my radiator cap.

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PaulG

· #9 · Oct 2, 2008

You've gotta love these old cars...glad you figured it out bro!

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nate_v8

Discussion Starter · #10 · Oct 2, 2008 (Edited)

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midnightmekanik

· #11 · Oct 2, 2008

Personally, I would replace it with the same spring. Your idea sounds good in theory, but, if you have luck like mine Murphy's Law is the only theory I live by! lol

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PaulG

· #12 · Oct 2, 2008

That could probably work, but I would say to stick with a stock solution too. I'm sure these springs don't go bad too often, so you can probably pick one up from a wreckyard that will last you the life of the car.

It would probably be hard to find a spring that compresses at a rate that feels 'right' and it would make it impossible to diagnose a clutch system leak because the pedal would always return all the way up no matter what.

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nate_v8

Discussion Starter · #13 · Oct 3, 2008

I may try my idea as a band aid until I can make it to the junkyard, or I may even see if the dealership can get it. I wouldn't think that the spring would be expensive.

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