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1,358 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Clutch and shifting related problems and solutions.

Make sure you bleed your clutch before assuming other problems.

Bleeding instructions.

Bleeding clutch Master cylinder.
1.Disconnect the line routing to the slave cylinder off the master cylinder.

2.Then route a clear tube from where the line was into the top of the resivour (make sure your fluid is topped off) then have a friend pump your clutch while you watch the tube untill you see that no more bubbles are going through and it is a constant flow of clutch fluid.

3.Reattach the clutch line.

4.Bleed slave cylinder

Bleeding clutch Slave cylinder.
1.locate the bleeder valve on top of the slave cylinder, 8mm

2.connect a hose and route it to a cup of brake fluid.

3.have a friend pump then hold the clutch to the floor.

4.loosen the bleeder valve. make sure the clutch is still pressed, you will feel pressure loss when the valve is cracked open

5.tighten valve, have the clutch pumped back, you may need to lift it off the floor with your foot to get it going.

6.After you regain pressure in the clutch Repeat steps 3-5 untill you are sure there is no
more air in the clutch line.

Just replaced the clutch, Now the transmission wont go into gear.

With clutches other then oem you may have a problem getting it into gear after the install. What's happening is the pressure plate is not pushing in far enough to disingage the clutch all the way (your car won't be able to shift gears while running or it is VERY hard to shift). What needs to happen is the throwout bearing arm needs to push into the pressure plate farther. If you have the transmission off you can do something small to give it just a little extra push on it.

1.Remove the throwoutbearing and the arm to get to the pivot ball the arm snaps around.

2.Remove the pivot ball with 17mm I believe?

3.Place 2 washers and a lock washer behind it and screw it back on. Make sure its on tight.

This along with a little pedal adjusting should fix the problem. A lot of cars have an adjustable one, i'm not sure why the mx6 transmission doesn't??

If you are also installing a fidanza or Aasco lightweight flywheel, this method along with pedal adjustment may not be enough to completley fix the problem and you may need to fabricate a longer pin for the Clutch slave cylinder. Reason being the flywheel may be a bit slimmer and the clutch won't sit out as far.

Making a new clutch slave cylinder pin/bolt is pretty easy. Just head to a local hardware store and buy a 5inch 10mm hex head bolt.

1.Compare the bolt side by side with the original and mark 1/4inch longer on the new one.

2.Cut the bolt, with the 5inch bolt there shouldn't be any thread left after the cut.

3.Using any grinding weapon of choice round off the top of the hex bolt so it seat's properly on the throwout bearing arm, also round off the cut you made on the bolt.

4.If you can't get the bolt to fit back in the slave cylinder (too long) just grind it shorter untill you get that perfect snug fit while still being able to bolt the slave cylinder back down. :tup:

By replacing your slave cylinder with the new pin your thowout bearing is going to push out much farther.

Too much freeplay in the pedal, clutch engages too high/low.

Clutch pedal adjustment!
1.Scoot that seat back and lock that steering wheel up high, your going to need the room
getting under the dash.

2.Flash a light at the top of your clutch pedal. You'll see the clutch line coming into the car and that it has 2 hex nuts at the end of it on the threaded part. The first nut is just a stopper and is attached.

3.Loosen the 2nd nut up as far as you can.

4.After it's loose you should be able to spin the clutch line with your fingers.

5.Spin it right for more clutch pressure resulting in a higher engagement point.
Spin it left if your clutch engages too high and you want engament closer to the floor.

6.After you get it to the engament point your happy with tighten the nut back down to the
stopper nut.

Pedal freeplay!
If you ever experience freeplay in your clutch (movement that doesn't apply pressure)
there is a bolt in front of the clutch that you can adjust to get rid of freeplay.
This should usually be done after adjusting your clutch engagement point or installing a new clutch.

1.Remove the switch in the way of it by twisting it left a 1/4 turn and pull it out.

2.Then use a wrench and screw it out towards the pedal while pushing the clutch down with your other hand. Do not adjust it out farther then the freeplay travel of the clutch or
your master cylinder could fail early from your clutch being pressed down 100% of the time.

3.Then make sure you don't forget to put that switch back in.

Grinding with hard shift.
Usually this is because of worn sycros in your gearbox. The most common gears for this to happen would be 2nd and 3rd gear. Try switching out your transmission fluid with Redline MT-90 or GM syncromesh. When I switched to Syncromesh all signs of worn syncros and grinding completely dissapeared. Royal purple will work just as good but is much more expensive, I would only recommend using it if you don't have redline or syncromesh available at your parts store.

Another thing that you can do to help with shifts as well as tighten your your shifter up would be to install some bronze-oil shifter busings that you can order from (recommend this)

Hope this can help a lot of people, if anyone has anything to add to this please do so!

1,358 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Question about the part where you replaced the slave cylinder pin / bolt...
Does the old one just screw out? (if not, how do you get it out?)
When you unscrew the slave cylinder the bolt just slides right out.

Did you cut the head of the bolt off, and round that part off to sit in the throwout bearing arm?
I left the head of the bolt on and rounded it off, thats what i recommend you do.

380 Posts
Nice stuff.

I have a problem though. My shifts were a bit notchy and I thought, I should put some MT-90 into this sucker and make it smoother. Now my 1st to 2nd is terribly notchy and the only time it does not almost grind is if I actually rev higher and faster. Or if I shift at extremely low rpms very slowly.

Not sure if something happened to my clutch fluid, it's full but I will try bleeding soon. All I basically did was change to MT-90 and it got worse lol. Perhaps it had syncromesh oil in it before?

Btw, would stiff/new engine mounts also help?

2,227 Posts
my previous tranny also had a really hard time getting into 1st gear. It catches really low to the ground, but disengages all the way when you press the pedal all the way down. 1st gear I could never get into when going more than 5 mph. I just swapped my tranny and we'll see if it's different. i was suspecting my synchros were shot. gonna try the car tomorrow
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