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I have noticed that it seems that the rear rack turns more left than right, and when it does fault, it gives a code 5....could it somply be that the rear rack needs re-alignment? Cant be anything serious, as the system is working....
Do you have to hold the steering wheel more to one side to keep the car going straight? If so, then yes it needs re-alignment. Hopefully though it didnt strip a tooth or 2 on the shaft/pump.


#5 is the front to rear steering ratio sensor.
Yup, sounds like a misaligned rear shaft. Or maybe even the front part is aligned wrong.
 

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Prolonged use with the rack misaligned can damage the teeth from what ive read.




Pull the 4ws fuse and see if the wheel is centered. That would be the 100% way to make sure its the rack thats misaligned.
 

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Im gonna look at it this weekend and see if its out of alignmenet....I want to get it all straightened out before I start the swap....


Looking at the factory scans, what is the set bolt? Just any bolt you can find or does it need a point on it to line up with the notch in the rack?
 

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Just don't try parallel parking. You'll change your mind on how awesome the 4ws is after trying to park downtown somewhere:(:lol:
yeah tell me about it. I go to chicago on a regular basis, and i always get looks when i have to pop the hood and pull a fuse just to park! I have thought about wiring a switch to disable 4ws for this very purpose. But then i should do one for the cooling fan (bad relay) too. :shrug:


NICE WORK! glad to see the wheels like that once again!
 

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Im gonna look at it this weekend and see if its out of alignmenet....I want to get it all straightened out before I start the swap....


Looking at the factory scans, what is the set bolt? Just any bolt you can find or does it need a point on it to line up with the notch in the rack?
the set bolt holds the rear rack shaft at center while you tighted the coupler (smooth part or the shaft, not the side with splines) of the rear shaft and rack. Once you set everything tight, then you take out the set bolt (specific bolt that comes to a point) and put back in the standard bolt. The set bolt is directly under the shaft as it enters the rear rack.

Feel free to PM me about any specific 4ws questions as they pertain to the 4ws mx6.


Good luck man, they say it can't be done....and i think probes are super ugly. I mean....your gf has to drive something, and after all the probe was designed to be marketed directly to WOMEN.......

A 4WS car is a man's car, since women can't work on it or appreciate it. Just a thought.
 

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In the FSM it shows how the sub frames may look the same but are actually differnet measurements.

In time.... In time.... you'll see.

I seriously would LOVE to buy that car off you, not for parts but to put back on the road. I will pay more then you bought it for.
 

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But then i should do one for the cooling fan (bad relay) too.
Ive already done that. On both of my cars.:shrug:;)

i find it easier to parallel park with 4ws working. idk
Sure, if you're pulling straight in to the spot:jump: Otherwise, when backing out the back wheels are going to be poushing the back end out from the spot you want.
 

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what about the steering angle sensor on the 4ws steering column and how it ties in directly to the control unit?

I figured that wiring the rear rack wouldn't be that bad...just the two control boxes. Should be well laid out in wiring diagrams, just figuring out the control box and timer unit doesn't seem as straight forward.

Props for what you got done for the rear rack:tup:

have you had a chance to lay teh rear subframe up in yet? Or is your main focus the wiring?
 

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hey man how is the swap going? go any new pics yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
good job at proving me wrong :tup:

if you get this working ill still shit myself in amazement :lol:
 

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NICE!!!:cool:
 
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