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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If I'm not mistaken, the KLDE should be at 203 psi when its new when compression tested.

But what about the KLZE? Shouldn't it be a different number? Anybody know the specification?

And on a more practical level, at what point (psi) will a decrease in compression affect the theoretical 200 hp output of the KLZE? Anyone know?

Thanks.
 

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KLZE in good condition should run about 225 PSI compresion with a good accurate compression gauge.

Don't forget to do your test after the motor has been ran + cool down a little from operating temp. Remove all the spark plugs, disconnect the disty 3 pin plug & disconnect both fuel rail connectors. Do each cylinder test by cranking the motor over like 8 times with the throttle WIDE OPEN. This is usually how i do the test for the most accurate results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So if I get results between 190-200 psi for the prospective engine, do you think I should buy it?

Can it still make 200 hp with those results?

Thanks...hope I"m not being to nit picky but I've got an empty engine bay impatiently awaiting a very strong KLZE and not a has been.

It's extremely difficult to get sellers to cough up actual compression results....I wonder why??
 

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Are you sure it is a legit KLZE or a KLDe bottom end with ze heads...

klze should have aprox 225 psi but if it has sat for a long & not ran before the comp test. A god condition KLDE will pull in 190 to 205 psi
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Was mostly a hypothetical question....How prevalent are these "half KLZE" engines?...man, what a drag. Is this intentional scamming? I guess I need to ask for a 100% KL31 guarantee on ALL engine parts.

Thanks for the info, boltz.
 

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well put it this way. Do your best to inspect the motor yourself before you buy... no idea how common they may be... some people just slap a ZE intake manifold on a full KLDE.

Verify the cams KL31 & the heads have the stamp code to match. Use a flash light and look in the spark plug hole & rotate the crank by hand to see if the piston top is flat.
 

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i got 205 all round on my KLZE and it was near new condition (oil was not even brown yet) as long as the numbers are consistent then you shouldn't have any issues.
 

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hmm this may warrant some investigation, but 3 klze's that i installed were above205. at 220 ish. 2 were straight neck and the other was curved
 

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remember it also depends on how you do it, you should disconnect the injector plugs, remove the FP fuse, disconnect the disty plugs, be sure your at WOT and then all gauges vary. i didnt go WOT so it may have made a difference (i know it takes more cranks to get up there)
 

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KLZE in good condition should run about 225 PSI compresion with a good accurate compression gauge.

Don't forget to do your test after the motor has been ran + cool down a little from operating temp. Remove all the spark plugs, disconnect the disty 3 pin plug & disconnect both fuel rail connectors. Do each cylinder test by cranking the motor over like 8 times with the throttle WIDE OPEN. This is usually how i do the test for the most accurate results.

Yea i already mentioned that on my first post.

all gauges can read differently, but a good quality gauge will be the best to use.

About all you can do to verify the ZE is check the head castings, cam number & the intake manifold. It is hard to see the piston tops through a picture, you gotta use your own eye and a good focused beam flashlight.

If the motor is fresh from an importer never ran you should do the comp test again after a few hundred miles once the rings loosen up.
 

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Are you sure it is a legit KLZE or a KLDe bottom end with ze heads...

klze should have aprox 225 psi but if it has sat for a long & not ran before the comp test. A god condition KLDE will pull in 190 to 205 psi
A DE with ZE heads (and cams, I'm assuming) would be just as fast as a ZE lol. No one would go through that much labour though, just to make an extra few dollars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm thinking there is a point along the range of numbers in a compression test that the KLZE will begin to make less than 200 hp. Anyone have an idea of what it might be?

The guy I was talking to today that's a KLZE importer says that his engines usually compression test around 170-200 psi. This is sort of an engine science question, I guess, but still practical.
 

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i cant comment on when it will lose power.

I will tell you that most importers do not and can not compression test their motors them self because there is no tranny bolted on the block therefor no starter. You can not rely on their japanese partners to tell them what motor in the container had what compression if they even do bother to test them.

So that answer is their way of giving you false reassurance...

As long as

1. a picture of the inside front valve cover head is golden & not BLACK as all hell it is low miles. Signs of brownish sludge is medium miles.

2. Check the cams are KL31

3. Check the heads match numbers. You can find more info in the thread how to identify a klze.

4. check what intake manifold it has.

5. ask that they include a ZE throttle body boot & distributor if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Thanks boltz.

I'm talking to this guy Hans from JSA Motors in Montreal. The business seems pretty good from talking to them a little...can't say that for all the others I've talked to.

They have a good website:
JDM Engines imported directly from Japan with low mileage. Japanese Engines Japanese Motors JDM Motors Used Honda Engines Used Nissan Engines Used Toyota Engines Used Mitsubishi Engines Used Mazda Engines.

I said I was looking for a 200 psi KLZE and he said he'd test a couple. On their website they claim to provide a certificate of the compression test readings, which may not be a sure thing, but it's a step in the right direction and could give you some leverage in a dispute.

I will ask for a picture though too from underneath the front valve cover. Here's a video of their warehouse...at least it is orderly.
:)

YouTube - jsamotors's Channel

I'm not recommending them, yet, though. Just a heads up.
 

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Wow their pricing is way high......

Mazda - JDM Engines - Tiger Japanese

Scroll to the bottom for the actual KLZE straight neck.

Nagasaki Jdm Motors

I would accept a ZE @ 200psi compression from a cold test since the motor has sat for a while the result will be lower. I did mention above in previous posts that the motor for best test results should be ran a few hundred miles & tested after 20 mins of cool down from operating temp. This is where i always got my 220 readings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I've heard way too many not so nice remarks about tiger japanese...I guess I don't care too much about price really...hard enough just to find a strong motor IMHO.

If I could go to the warehouse at Tiger Japanese and have free reign of the warehouse to look stuff over and pull off valve covers as one of our MX-6r did...somewhere in the archives, I'd give them a try. He found a sweet motor, but that motor maybe have been less than 1 in 10 of the KLZEs that they have in their warehouse.
 

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Nagasaki used to be local to me and we would inspect and choose the motor before buying. Now they are not local & only in eastern canada.

But i dont have to worry since i am not buying a ZE i got a rebuilt low compression ZE for boost.
 

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i know this threds old, but any one got pics of de pistons, vs. ze pistons. got a klze all #s match up. but the pistons have valve reliefs, and ive read on here there supposed 2 b flat. any ideas?
 

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ZE pistons do have valve relief pockets, but the center section is flat across where DE pistons center is dished downward... very obvious to tell with no pictures.
 
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