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i have recently performed the coolant bypass mod by excluding the coolant from running through the TB... but my problem is the idle sometimes fluctuates... sometimes it will be normal.. other times it'll be like 1250rpm and then suddenly drop to like 1000... then next time i drive the car it'll be back to normal... has anyone else had idle problems with this mod? if so, is it fixable, or should i just switch it back to how it was? Thanks.
 

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ph34r3d said:
i have recently performed the coolant bypass mod by excluding the coolant from running through the TB... but my problem is the idle sometimes fluctuates... sometimes it will be normal.. other times it'll be like 1250rpm and then suddenly drop to like 1000... then next time i drive the car it'll be back to normal... has anyone else had idle problems with this mod? if so, is it fixable, or should i just switch it back to how it was? Thanks.
Yeah, everyone has had problems with that mod. Its a stupid mod :shrug:

Switch it back to how it was :)
-Garrett
 
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i would personally go back to how it was. definaltley if u live somewhere that it gets colder then like 40 degrees because the idle is jumping because of frost in the TB also the no coolant makes the IAC pointless
 

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You need to bleed your coolant system. You probably put so air in the system when you remove the pipe.

How to bleed:

-Have you car cold down
-Remote the coolant cap on the left engine side
-start the engine
-let the car run, when the radiator fan start you can stop the car
-add some coolant to top the cap
-reinstall the cap

Test drive the car!


Why I have this trouble:

On the TB you have a idlee valve. This valve need to get coolant to do is job if you gt a little bubble of aire the idle freak out.
 

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PatrickB said:
why would you not want to cool your TB?
To the contrary, the coolant lines are there to heat the throttlebody.
 
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Er, inside the IAC solenoid there is a wax pill...

This wax keeps the IAC solenoid from moving until the coolant heats it enough to melt the wax.. then the solenoid shaft is allowed to move freely.

I have plates that I sell that allow you to keep the IAC seperate from the TB.. You keep the coolant flowing to the IAC, but since there isn't any contact between the TB and IAC, the TB stays cool and the IAC still heats up to melt the wax so the idle works fine..

It was originally invented to make it easier to swap TBs, since I test the ones I bore and sell. The biggest problem of swapping TBs on our motors is the stupid IAC. I got sick of the wrestling match 2-4 times a week, so I moved it over. ;)

Rob
 

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Re: Re: Coolant Bypass Mod?

skiingman said:
Yeah, everyone has had problems with that mod. Its a stupid mod :shrug:

Switch it back to how it was :)
-Garrett
Some people are forced to do that mod when they have the ZE IM swap, when they can't find a ZE IAC ;)

Since this thread is about the bypass mod, I'll just ask this question here, I bought a ZE IM and it came with the TB and etc. BUT, the one of the coolant line nipple on the IAC is missing!!! I was thinking just try to get a nipple off a 03 IAC, or get a tube that will fit in the hole perfectly, and just JB weld it on. Do you think it'll work? Or I'm better off go find another ZE IAC or do the bypass mod?

Here's a pic in case you don't know what I'm talking about, you can see the top nipple got ripped off :mad:



Any suggestion will help, thanks!
 
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