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Discussion Starter #201
Everyone who has bought one so far is really happy with this design too. I showed him every design I could find & this design made the most sense as far as cost, time spent on each one & improved performance.
 

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I'll post some pics asap, I was going to wait to install it on my 626, but I ended up letting my friend with A PGT run it for the time being.

Fitment:

Easy as pie, the nut closest to the radiator is a PITA, unless you get super creative, the radiator might have to come out...a socket will not fit over the nut, at least I couldn't get one to.

I'm pretty sure the downpipe flange on my housing is warped, it wouldn't sit flat with the gasket and downpipe, so mine leaks and will need a crush gasket.

Other than that, the install went fairly smooth.

I do intend to make the OEM heatshield fit over the housing, it IS possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #204
I didn't think the nut closest to the radiator was too bad, although, I HIGHLY recommend removing the radiator first. I punched a hole in mine during my install... A socket won't fit over that nut. I used a wrench & hammer & lightly tapped the wrench to get it tight. I thought the nut under the wastegate tube was the worst one to tighten.

I would recommend a crush gasket between the downpipe & 3 hole flange anyway. Mine does not leak with a crush gasket.

I'm glad your install went smoothly. Other than the radiator & wastegate nut, mine went smoothly as well.

I'll be eager to see how you get the OEM heatshild over the housing.

How does your friend like the housing on his PGT?
 

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Exhaust note sounds great (straight pipe, side exit), performance is fantastic.

Catch is, we did a clutch job, but the flywheel is too glazed to grip the new clutch. So he can't boost...
 

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You should break the glaze with emery tape or something like 80 grit sandpaper when doing a clutch. Just do it in a circular swirl so that the plate has something to bite on. It doesn't take much to do this, just enough so that the surface is no longer shiney.
 

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I installed it in my 626 for the first time the other day. I had previously had it installed on my friends n/a block probe GT.

The sound of the exhaust after install is just pure sex. I've had a side exit for 4 years now, I'll never run more exhaust than that. The GT motor is so deep and....low compression-ey. Even with just a downpipe, such a perfect motor.

But yeah, the quality of this custom O2 housing is just amazing. I'm so happy with mine, very happy I got one. This is will be one of those 'rare' GD parts in few years, maybe less.
 

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Discussion Starter #213
Thanks for the review. I'm loving mine as well. The price does seem kinda steep, but it's gotta be close, if not the single best bang for your buck mod. I think the 2.5" downpipe was a very close 2nd for me.

Which by the way, if anyone needs a 2.5" downpipe to "complete" the setup, I have one for sale. $140 shipped.
 

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Discussion Starter #215 (Edited)
Dibbs, after seeing pics. :)
Here is the finished product. The welds aren't pretty. I'm getting better though & the seems are sealed. It has a 5" long flex pipe & the angle is subtle. This will be a direct bolt on with no modification since I built this on a jig. Only thing you'll need is a 3 & 2 hole gasket. $135 shipped.





 

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Discussion Starter #217 (Edited)
The pics look worse than what they are. I'm still getting the hang of welding. There is good penetration, but not very consistent penetration, hence all the globs. I'll take any reasonable offers, so $135 OBO.
 

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Suggestion would be to grind down that spatter and spend a couple bucks on some paint so it at least looks decent when the person gets it. Also, because they look so horrible, it's tough to see if they have any holes going through or not.

Then get a MIG (welding with gas and solid wire, not flux cored wire) and that alone will make your welds look 100x better.

I also don't think that jig will stay together if you use it a few times. Materials were probably <$50 so nice profit margin.
 

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Discussion Starter #219
I plan on grinding down the spatter like I did the last downpipe I made, but haven't gotten to it yet. It's pretty easy to check for holes and why I stated the welds/seems are sealed, because they are.

I totally agree a different welder would make the welds look 100x better, but as far as function goes, it'll get the job done. Once it's under the car, nobody sees it anyway.

The jig will hold up just fine. It's purely used as a guide. Once I get a few spot welds in place, I remove it & finish in a table vice.

Quite a few people wanted a 2.5" downpipe & nobody was making them, so I decided to give it a go. I'm by no means a professional...an amateur at best who is still learning, so I'll take any criticism in stride & work on making a better product. I'll be the first to say it the welds don't look pretty, but it will most certainly out perform the stock 1-7/8" downpipe most people are using.
 
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