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I was hearing some thumping when turning left so i went to go and look at my cv joint and saw that the boot was ripped all the way around.

I know that i will need to replace parts but am wondering if i should just replace the cv joint or the entire half shaft. I think that i can get a remanufactured halfshaft from auto zone for like $70 plus core.

I need someone to explain a few things to me. What is the difference between inner cv joint and outer cv joint. Also if i buy a remanufactured half shaft will it include the cv jionts and all boots?
 

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You will want to replace the entire half shaft. The half-shaft includes both cv-joints and both cv boots. It is much easier to just replace the whole thing than to take the shaft out and only replace half of it (there are two joints on it - an inner and an outer). Look underneath the car and you will see that there are inner and outer joints.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok cool so i should go ahead and replace the entire halfshaft. Has anyone who has done this before got any tips, anything that i should watch out for? thanks
 

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ok so ive done a good amount of searching and come up with this:

the autozone replacement is a little larger than the stock and therefore is harder to get out once you already installed it, i guess i will go somewhere else to get one.

a lot of people have had luck by using a crowbar as opposed to automotice prybars to get the half shaft out of the tranny.

my last question is, is it really necesarry to remove the center nut to do this job, because that just looks like its going be hell, especially if it is anything like the one on my probe.

also do i need to buy new seals for the tranny?

ive got a haynes and a probe shop manual, so i should be all good.
 

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yeah, you have to unlock that center hub nut orthe axle will not come out., if you got the cash I'd fix/replace everything you possibly could down there.

Get an alignment when you're done, and clean off and paint every part you pull off. It doesnt matter if you replace everything on your car cause if you still put everything back drity and rusted your subconscience mind tells you its still a piece of sh*t.
 
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SixSick6 said:
as far as I know there arent any seals for the tranny, at least made specifically. Just ordinary gasket sealant, of the silver tranny specific sort
There are two circular seals that go in the axle holes, and then the axles go into these seals, it keeps tranny fluid from dumping out :)

Like your Cam or Crank seal, but bigger.
 

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SixSick6 said:
as far as I know there arent any seals for the tranny, at least made specifically. Just ordinary gasket sealant, of the silver tranny specific sort
Huh?? There is definitely a rubber/plastic output shaft seal on both sides of the transaxle. It is similar in construction to the

TiZBaD: Which side are you replacing? If you're replacing the driver's side, I would get a new tranny seal (the seal is located where the axle meets the transmission) while you're in there. If it's the passenger side axle, you will not need the seal because the passenger side axle attaches to and intermediate shaft, which itself is bolted to the engine block and goes in the pass side of the transmission (have a look underneath and you'll see what I mean.) You do not have to remove the intermediate shaft to replace the pass side axle as it separates from the intermediate shaft by using a crowbar or pulling.

As for the reman axles, the advice I would give you is to remove the c-clip from the end of the remanufactured axle and install the c-clip from the axle that was in the tranny originally. This will prevent the common problem of the c-clip being the wrong size and the axle getting stuck in the tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yeah im going to be replacing the driver side halfshaft. Anyone know the part #'s for the tranny seal?

magik8 i def like your idea of using the old clip to avoid getting the new shaft stuck in there. Do you think that i should drain the tranny first? I should think i have to because otherwise all of the old oil would come out of the seal when the shaft is out.

but has anyone tried to just replace the cv boot, instead of replacing the entire shaft. This is not because i want to save money or time because i know that i have to take the halfshaft out anyway to replace the cv boots, but i had my cv joints replaced less than a year ago, and thought that maybe everything else may be ok. Although i dont know if he just replaced the boots or the entire shaft.

shannonlujan, what did you mean by paint all the parts that i put back in, i thought that they didnt have paint on them, arnt they just metal?
 

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TiZBaD99 said:
shannonlujan, what did you mean by paint all the parts that i put back in, i thought that they didnt have paint on them, arnt they just metal?
What he means is this: The car is how old, over 10 years old outside where it can rust, get dirty etc. How often you you pull all these parts out? (hopefully not in a long time) So if you car about your car, clean all the parts you can. Paint them if needed and you have the time/paint. It just safeguards you from someting stupid rusting out and breaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks panther.

any recomendations as to what kind of cleaner or grease i should use?
 
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Engine Brite works wonders, just make sure to keep it off all petroluem based items (Rubber, Plastic etc) as it assumes that they are dirty invading oil and eats them up :)
 

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TiZBaD99 said:
magik8 i def like your idea of using the old clip to avoid getting the new shaft stuck in there.
Actually, it's Steve Fogale's idea as related here.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks flyswat, i would wonder how your supposed to use engin brite to clean the engine bay without getting it on plastic and rubber stuff.

also this is how sentence is spelled
 

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Just clean and paint the parts you take off that won't have a risk of freezing up bearings or getting it on seals. I just used a degreaser and pressure washer (car wash).

I wouldn't paint the spindles with the bearings in them still.

With a bunch of my parts repainted my car looks so much nicer from bottom.

I painted engine mount brackets, oil pan, control arms, sub frames, battery pan, and I filled in the area under the battery pan with silver cause I had some nasty rust.

I also painted several gusset plates and brackets. Gives me a feeling of progress. Besides if you have to remove those parts again its nice to know that they won't be covered in grease again (unless of course you have a leak!)
 

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half shaft removal

shannonlujan said:
yeah, you have to unlock that center hub nut orthe axle will not come out.
~The axle can be removed along with the steering knuckle hub, without loosening the hub's nut. I was in a bit of a hurry at a "U-pull" yard needing a replacement hub assembly and found that it was simpler to yank the axle along with the hub. I got the whole thing for like $30 and the cv's were still good !

Originally posted by shannonlujan
It doesnt matter if you replace everything on your car cause if you still put everything back drity and rusted your subconscience mind tells you its still a piece of sh*t.
~Unless you have no sub-conscience about such things, but a good tight front end suspension is of upmost importance, even though most our time is spent on the top. Some good advice, get on your back and crawl underneath the old girl from time to time.
 

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while we are on this subject with halfshafts and cv shaft joints i have an question that i hope would clear up things for me, when my halfshaft broke about 50 miles away from home i had to limp all way back to home. would that affect the life of my transmission even if its an mtx lx?


thx in advance for anything ya can come up with
 
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