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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's the most amount of power I can seriously expect to get out of the DX motor? I know intake will help some, and exhaust too. I just did plugs + wires (Bosch 8mm wires, single point Bosch platinum plugs) and I'm definitely wondering what else my car is um...lacking. I thought, if it wasn't broke, i wasn't going to fix it, but the wires made a pretty big difference! (considering I was using 12 year old, stiff wires) How oppressive is the DX exhaust? Some bolts around my cat are jangling and its gonna need replaced in the next month or 2...basically whenever my pipe starts dragging. Any high-flow cats that are gonna fit?

Am I nuts to think that there are any exhaust headers available for my car? I cant remember where it was at but I saw a set of Borla headers for almost $800...way too much $ and i'm not even sure if it was the right part.

Aside from getting an intake and finding less restrictive exhaust parts, and aside from dumping my DX and getting a GT (i cant do it, financially) is there any other power to be made with the DX? I'd steal for 20HP, and I'd kill for more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
basically a followup to my above questions..

1) does anyone know the mazda specific engine code for the DX (NA) 2.2L engine? mazda is notorious for having engine codes that make no sense at all...

2) there's another "bulge" in the exhaust after the cat, is it another catalytic converter or is it a pre-muffler? (and do i need it?)

3) whats the best price/performance intake that i'm not going to have to do major surgery to put in? that means...i dont really want to have to move my battery to the trunk, but i will if its my only serious choice. (also which ones are nicest to my airflow sensor?)

4) (this isn't a power issue) I'm sure i'm not the first to ask it but is there a shift boot replacement that's an easy fit in place of my FUGLY accordion-fold boot? I *NEED* to get rid of this eyesore. They should have been outlawed years ago.


Thanks all who are going to respond, my DX is undergoing its slow and unwilling transformation from high-mileage econocar to something that I actually like to drive.
 

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I Feel Your Pain, as I Have a DX as Well

1. dont know
2. the "bulge" is a resonator, dont need it. i replaced my exhaust with a pacesetter header, cat-co hi flow cat, and a pacesetter cat-back.
3. for an intake i would go with the ractive w/the heat sheild. then remove the old set-up in the fender well and run some dryer duct down for a cold air set up. no battery relocation.
4. i have an auto, sorry.
 

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the bulge is a resonator. All it does is quiet the exhaust a bit and make it a little less raspy. It dosent hurt to leave it on as it dosent act like a restriction. When I get a performance exhaust I'm going to make sure to put another one on as I dont really like a loud exhaust.
 

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1) F2 or FE2 a lot of parts for the N/A cars use the designation F201 (engine parts of course). The F201 is sort of a guess. Since when did engine codes make sense from any manufacturer?
4) Just get one and put it in.
 

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1.F2 I believe.
2.Yeah, it just keeps things quiet. All a matter of how you want your exhaust to sound.
3.I don't think that anyone makes a real cold air intake, just adapters/filters that suck in hot air. I have one on mine, and it works well. I feel power gains when the car is moving, where cold air is getting into the engine compartment, especilly at freeway speeds. n stop and go traffc, it deffinately suffers from serious heat soak. The sound is great with he cone filter.
4.I have a MOMO shift boot, and MOMO Combat shift knob. Both are black leather, the knob has a carbon fiber insert. The boot is for an A3 VW, but it fit no problem. Looks great, and the knob screws into thetop of the boot, so it looks like a factory job.

As for other power gains, The header won't hurt. Pacesetter is the only one that I could find, and it's cheap. JC Witney has it for $125. If you want a fun carto drive, do suspension first. Springs+struts make a world of difference. Also, you can get rear upper and lower braces from the dealer if you want. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i looked on http://www.jcwhitney.com, and it looks as if they have headers only for 93+ V6 models. If its out there i'll find it eventually. Doing my O2 sensor today, and maybe my valve cover gasket...depends how "in to it" i feel like getting. I know my O2 sensor is FUBAR....its the original with more than 159k miles on it, no wonder fuel economy is bad...I dont think 21 mpg is average for the DX? Well I'll find out soon enough. I'm probably going to need to beat the hell out of the old sensor to get it out, if its honestly as old as I think it is (ok, the wire was never cut, so either its as old as the car, or someone used an OEM sensor that plugs into the harness...) Which is more likely?
 

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summit racing has the non-coated pacesetter header for $140. that is where i got mine, it came in 3 days. they also cover your shipping. power gain is decent. lets put it this way, i can spin tires now.
 

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The header is listed as a Ford Probe header. They have the same engine as ours, so it fits, no problem. I get 21mpg around town, so that's not bad, unless my o2 sensor is bad too. However, I get about 34mpg on the freeway. Do the sensor with the header, if you do it. It's a pain making the sensor fit. I screwed the sensor into the header before I bolted the header on. That way, the pipe bent itself.
 

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I at least got 30 mpg (35 if i was good :)) with my 89 DX (5-spd). These numbers were after I replaced my O2 with a Bosch one.

I get about 20~25 with my 92 (auto) with the original O2.
 

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How much did the Bosch O2 sensor cost, and how diffcult was the installation? 87 octane costs $1.92/gallon here in Monterey, and it was $1.99 in Santa Cruz today! I'm all for finding ways to improve fuel economy.
 

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it was like $40 for the sensor without the connector and $50 with the connector. I choose to do the $40 option. it's pretty easy to do just follow the instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hmm, I just got the Bosch sensor (bosch part # 11027) very easy to install, I paid $23 at Advanced Auto Parts (its great, there's a 1st gen mx6er there who knows what he's talking about) AutoZone said they carried it but they were out of stock. Dont worry about getting the one with the wire that plugs into the original harness, ours are single-wire sensors, cut the wire as close to the original sensor as you can and then just crimp the end onto the connector on the replacement.

it netted me about a 25% increase in fuel economy, so with the current price of gas now, this should pay for itself in... 2 weeks?
 
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