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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Dynamat - Project Phase I

*******UPDATED, New Posting for Project Scope in Second Reply*******
Hi All

Just put in an order lastnight for 72sq feet of Dynamat Xtreme. I was going to order the material from sounddeadenershowdown.com but the duty and shipping were going to kill me.

Scope of this project: Make a quite ride.

Comments before questions:

- I don't feel a huge need to treat my trunk this round. I do have a pair of JL10's, and the trunk seems pretty darn happy in general. The rear plane between the trunk and deck gets the most rattle, this will be treated
-Stock speakers have been replaced with some Fosgate 6x9's
- I will be using weather stripping for certain areas that rattle/vibrate. The Dynamat is specifically for reducing road noise.
- I will be working with a friend who's done this before and we will have two rollers and two heat guns.


What will be treated?:

- Rear Deck plane
- Both doors - thinking of two layers of dynamat
- Rear Passenger Trim, both sides
- Under rear passenger seats
- Full area under carpet


Questions about what should be treated?

- Roof? I can't find any really got advise to treat the roof - block out rain noise - pfft. Unless the roof is a HUGE source of wind noise, I will treat it at a later date. Nothing really rattles up there.
- Front Dash? - Can someone comment if road noise really comes through here? - IF it does, it would be worth treating. Other than that, I would treat the tweeter deck at most since there is vibrations
- Does the trunk add a large amount of road noise to the cabin? Haven't been able to really nail this one down.


Below are the measurement of the interior cabin for anyone who might neet certain areas to help them in the future. Also, I will post pictures of the project when it starts in the coming weeks.

Thanks for all your help!

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Discussion Starter #2
Reply to my own thread ;)


I've decided how this project will unfold - aided with additional materials.

I've also been looking for a mass sound deadner at a resonable cost for the doors, under the carpet and other areas. Dynamat Xtreme will work well for panel resonance and will provide a good deadening barrier, but I also want a specific material as a mass load barrier. Dynamat has a product but this was largely unresonable to the cost and their own warnings due to the product containing lead.

After researching underlay for different floorings, I was brought to a product called Dura Undercushion. They have various undermating made out of recycled tire and comprised of other compounds. The particulat undermatting I've obtained is specific to acoustical treatments.

The cost is .88 cents per Sq Foot. Total area purchased - 65sq FT. Thickness of material = 6mm

I will be treating various areas in the car in these ways

Dynamat Xtreme will be used for a constrained layer damper.
Duracushion will be used as a mass load barrier
Closed Cell Foam (Wifes yoga mat - she doesn't know yet) as a decoupler for panels and trim

Doors: Four step treatment

- Dynamat Xtreme, two layers on the door and in the speaker cavity.
- Panels/Trim will have the Duracusion glued to the back side using a vinyl cement.
- Foam in curved areas of the trim. Glued to the Duracushion

Car Floor - and under Passenger seats - 2 Steps

- Dynamat Xtreme, from front of car to back underside dropping of into the trunk.
- 36SQ ft of Duracushion on top of the Dynamat

Interior Rear Passenger Quarter Panel/Trim - 3 Steps

- Dynamat Xtreme the metal surfaces
- Panels/Trim will have the Duracusion glued to the back side using a vinyl cement.
- Foam in curved areas of the trim. Glued to the Duracushion


Rear Deck - 2 Steps

- Dynamat the metal shelf - and the underside
- One layer of Duracushion on the shelf - might do the back of the trim

Roof

- This one I am still on the fence.
- If I have any Dynamat leftover I might do a couple of spots, and I know I will have enough Duracushion left so could always do the back side of the headliner

Trunk

- At this time. No treatment. The back doesn't rattle that much, and I will probably just tackle the trunk with some more Duracushion later on.

Rear Speaker Grills - bead of silicon to stop the rattling since I broke a couple of clips
Seat Belt panel - Some strips of duracushion and silicon since something in there is rattling.


I will be starting this project in a couple of weeks and will post pictures.

Also, JUST BOUGHT MY ESPEC HEADLIGHTS!!!!! NEXT PROJECT!!!!! WOOT!
 

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when i did my mazda6 a few years back, i used FatMat sound deadener. i also filled any open space with expanding foam in a can including my A, B and C pillars. along with some huge gaps in the rear of the car. then any larger open areas that can be found behind any interior panel i used a mixture of either poly fill, or foam acoustical foam. dead air space is your enemy man. do everythign you can to fill them.
 

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I usually sand down the metal with 600 grit and decrease with chemical. It's a huge deal to degrease!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Hi Guys

Here is the update on the project. Started it this weekend.

First picture is the roll of Duramat. Good Weight to this stuff


As mention in the workplan. I am gluing the Durmat to the door trim - Dynamat will go on the metal parts of the door




Full adhesion to the door. I will be trimming off a couple of additional bits. The Closed foam cell will be glued on later - Will post picture of the end product.



Started to pull off the rear panels - I will have to change the work I do, the rear trim panels have foam on them, after I dynamat the interior of this well, I will glue the foam from the rear trim. Rear Trim will have the Duramat installed on it.



Time to start the driver door - then the rear trim. Tomorrow I will Dynamat the doors.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
So Back to post an other update.

This time I've done the Driver side door and was prepping to mount the trim back on - small challenge. The thickness of the Duracushion was a little too much in some places preventing the door clips to clip properly in place.

Managed to find a couple longer clips for the door, now things can fit snug without glue

 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Hi All

Almost Done - Spent the day with my buddy Dax and we gutted out the interior. We had to cut part of the carpet up at the very front. I took it to a car wash and used their rug shampooer to get some grossness out. Spilt coffee sucks

After it got gutted, I washed all the surfaces down.

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I did the bulk of the Dynamating, Dax re-ran all the stereo cables (power, audio, etc) for the rear speakers and sub's instead of through the side cable runners. Much more tidy.

The next couple of photo's show us wrapping up the last of the Dynamating and the start of us cutting the Duracushion to fit.

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I still have to finish off the Rear Passenger Trim with some more Dura Cushion and I have one more sheet of Dynamat - I will use the last of this the deaded more of the tire well.

All in all the ride home last night was much quiter - since the Rear Passenger Trim isn't installed I still heard noise from the rear tire well.

What did I break in the proccess:

- The Door trim - because I got longer pegs to hold the door trim in, I broke a couple spots on the door where the pegs hold in. An Epoxy Glue dealt with that very nicely.
I highly recommend you buy yourself a Door/Peg Removal Trim Tool - I did and it helped alot.

- The last bolt to go in to hold the passenger seat got striped. The head popped off and I will have to get it drilled out. I will more than likely take it to Mazda this week. Great service at the Pacific Mazda here in Victoria.

I will post a couple more pictures of the wrap up job - and I do have a hunch I will be Dynamating the trunk in the coming months.

Side note, the Trunk had over 8 inches of water in the well. I had my bumper repaired but they broke the seals - it got fixed and I did go out any buy a chunk of Duracushion and put that under the Trunk Carpet - it has made a difference, but I need to deal with the tire wells, and Gaps.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
After driving for a couple of days: Thoughts -

1) Is the ride more quite? Yes I would say around 60% - Once your are on a highway above 90KM there is wind noise and more road noise.
1a) I will sound proof the roof as well
1b) The doors in total got four layers of dynamat - All I can say is that anyone who thinks that Dynamat is enough, well maybe for some in some cars, but not for my 6, If I didn't and the various layers of Duracushion through out the car, it would not have been as happy.
2) I still have sound coming from the trunk - hence I will do the trunk
3) I chose to not do the rear deck to "test" if it needed it after all the work
3A) there is some "whoomping" when the sub is playing. Probably because it floats and it is the styrofoam? underneath resonating to the music
4) I ripped off the front trim speaker grills - it was actually cutting down on the soundstage - Pissed as $%^$ I didn't want to kill the looks. I will be pulling off the Passenger one as well. My hope is to find a some speaker cloth in beige that I can nicely wrap around a oval rubber wire? and glue it back in place for asthetics.
5) Fixed the passenger seat bolt - 40 bux for Perfections Auto to drill it out and rethread a new bolt.
7) What is left - Screw in a couple of new, saddly - black, trim screws, Anyone have the Beige Trim Inserts??????
8) Next is the Espec Lights - Saving my money for a Philips HID conversion kit..
 

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How much did you pay for the dynamat? I just did my doors with peel and seal from Lowes and it is so amazing. I payed $30 for two 25'x6" rolls and did both doors. No rattle, great sound and road noise reduction. Only smelled for a week and not bad smell at all. Great. Love it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
300 for 72sq ft did the entire cabin.

For a budget option peel and seal is a good find for you. However, it doesn't come close to the level of Dynamat. No smell too.

Good find, its better than nothing.
 
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