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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With moderate to hard braking I get e-brake light on for no apparent reason. Fluid level is on max, there is no play in e-brake lever, rear calipers don't seem to stick (just some suggestions I found in search results). So what's up?
 

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silverbullet said:
With moderate to hard braking I get e-brake light on for no apparent reason. Fluid level is on max....
The light is not only a "e-brake" light, it's also the low brake fluid sensor
The sensor in that is really picky....
when you brake hard, the fluid level changes for that moment (as it dips with the force of braking) and the light will come on...
Make sure the car is on level ground and make sure the fluid is really @ max, maybe a tad above...
 

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Check your pads. The light will also come on if something is grinding, IE, you have no pads left. At least mine did anyway.
 
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I've never heard of the light coming on due to low pads other than more fluid being out in the calipers so the level would be low in the MC... but that's not the case by the thread starter's description.

I would bet it's the level sensor. A quick and easy test is to just unplug the sensor (wire comes out the MC resevoir) and go for a drive.. if it doesn't come on, then you know that's what's causing it.
 

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i can vouche for the brake pad issue
mine is topped off...and my light is always on even while accelerating...it's bad i know.... i just talked to a company for brake equipment "drilled brembo" rotors to start

david
 

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Go unplug your brake fluid resevoir level sensor harness... I bet the light shuts off. That means it's a level thing or the sensor itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update: Yep, it was fluid level. Reservoir walls had old oil level line on it and from outside it looked fine. Actually half of fluid was gone.
Perfect excuse to change the whole juice.
 

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the light is on cuz the ur e-brake switch is stuck take the center console off and get inside by the brake handle the switch is rite there underneath it works the same as a door jam switch it is grounded til u pull the handle up like openin the door and it will get stuck in the closed position its not hard to fix give it a try
 

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blazenauto72 said:
the light is on cuz the ur e-brake switch is stuck take the center console off and get inside by the brake handle the switch is rite there underneath it works the same as a door jam switch it is grounded til u pull the handle up like openin the door and it will get stuck in the closed position its not hard to fix give it a try
Pay attention...
silverbullet said:
Update: Yep, it was fluid level. Reservoir walls had old oil level line on it and from outside it looked fine. Actually half of fluid was gone.
Perfect excuse to change the whole juice.
Guess it wasn't the eBrake switch.
 

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Fastest95PGT said:
Pay attention...

Guess it wasn't the eBrake switch.
heheheh

question for you guys in regards to the light
got new rotors and pads put on the 6, topped the fluid up, but under firm breaking conditions, the light turns on :( i thought the problem would be solved after replacing brakes and topping up the resevoir...

any thoughts??

David
 

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Fastest95PGT said:
How did you replace the pads? Did you at any point open the bleeder screw?
yes, that is a different story as to why (stupid me)...but i bled the brakes, and topped up the fluid again, drove it a bit, then checked the fluid level... light still comes on :freak:
 

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Open the top of the brake fluid resevoir. Can you SEE the fluid at the top? If not, put more in... the sides can get very dirty and make it very difficult to judge ACTUAL fluid level.
 

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my driveway isn't level, so ill check later on when i go to my buds house. Got a good point with the dirt, it's possible my friend didn't see actual fluid level and just assumed. Thanks! :tup:

David
 

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lol
well seems problem is solved for no aparent reason...

anyways, onto a new issue..

on startup, usually on a colder day, my oil light is on. Then when i start to drive it flickers, then stays off. Then later on, when idling it flickers on again, and then goes away when i drive.

Now im hoping to god im not having an oil blow-by problem. Or a worn crank bearing (again). On my kl03 that happened, but 2 minutes afterwards, the motor let go. Any thoughts?? should i start a new thread about this?? lol
i figured you would know fastest. Im thinking it might be a faulty sensor. I checked my oil and it was low, but certainly not dry. Im just about due for a change. By the way im running 5w30 synthetic...i think... im always bad on memory for that.

David
 

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Man... new issue = new thread.

But it sounds like either your OPSU is reading incorrectly or your oil pump is starting to fail causing low oil pressure at idle. I remember cars in the 80's doing that with the dummy lights.

So either switch to 10w40 or something or try changing the OPSU.
 
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