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There isn't +12V at the VAF!
I believe this is what keeps my MAF from reading. Pretty sure I just repinned the VAF connector to the MAF pins. Also correct MAF connector pinout, facing the orange part of the connector is, from left to right, GND - MAF Sig -12V. Ecu wouldn't even boot up with the wires switched over. Everything seems to work just fine with the MAF disconnected. All theses tests were completed with Key On Engine Off.

Where are you in the world? I am in the UK.
Canada, Quebec. How's the weather there?
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Weather has been great 22 deg C (72F) sunny.. but today is overcast!

Looking at this picture of the VAF (KL02); My colours, right to left, are;

[1] Red
[2] Brown/Yellow
[3] Black/Red
[4] Black/Blue
[5] Yellow/Red

What are the colors for your VAF?

I think you're REALLY close! :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Hi All,

Does anyone have accurate pinouts for the OBDII ECU?

95-97 Mx6-ers!!

Thanks

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #25
95 mx6 wiring diagram :

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=366

96-97 mx6 wiring diagram :

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=4704

Also, car runs now, and beautifully. Very impressed with the smoothness of the V6...

Still have a few issues (charge light lighting dimly despite alt charging, no ecu fan control, no tach) to figure out but the car is going to the shop on it's own power for a complete 2.5'' exhaust tomorrow.

It is finally alive!

Video upcoming!
Fantastic!!

Thanks for the links.

Looking forward to the video!

What ECU did you settle on?
 

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Kept with the KL47. Seems to work great as of yet.

Ran into more trouble, car had no power at all when I went to deliver the car to the shop, had to turn around. Tore the car halfway apart trying to find my issue(s).

Found a distributor cap with a missing center contact thing. Also pretty sure I didn't assemble my distributor correctly and the cap where the rotor installs on was rotated a bit. Also the EGR valve opened once and was immediately stuck open, making the car idle like crap. I had to tear off the timing belt a 17th time to realize all this.

Car is 90% back together, still have to modify my new cap to fit the external coil conversion. That should be tonight's plan.

How is your car doing?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Haven't had much time to do anything but get it running with the original ECU. I have been using it as a daily driver to work and back. I put some hydraulic lash adjuster cleaner in the engine oil to quieten the clatter. Took a while.. 2000miles but the engine is running great.

I need to do some body work, before I do any mods.

Any update on the fan control?
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Hi Xmaster19,

I found a mistake in the mappings, I hadn't filled in the sheet completely.

It was the engine temp sensor. In the 16 pin connector pin 6.. is connected 3G

See the beginning of this thread for the latest, or below.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NWrukTk7aGrqQRRZl5JHtp00WXdMDwLo

This may fix the ECU Fan control Issue??! :nerd:
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Lastest update on the first page.:grin2:
 

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Found my fan issue. The crimp and shrink style connectors I used on many of the connections proved to suck. The wire could pull out of them, although not completely and even after they been shrunk. It took some time to figure out. Took most of them off the ecu connections and it fixed many electrical gremlins I had.

I had a recurring O2 sensor code that got fixed, the fans started working correctly also.

I had no problem with your pinout, although I didn't solely rely on it. I also heavily used the 95 millenia 2.5 wiring diagram found on revbase.

The charge indicator blinking was my car telling me I was melting the alternator battery wire. The protegé wiring I used did not match the millenia alternator and needed some adaptation. It left the cable barely touching the contact on the alternator and burning the cable down until it charged no more. I fixed that with a length of 4 gauge cable and some copper terminals.
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Great news...

Are you fully operational, then?

It would be great if you could check your final wiring against my pinouts. I still have a 1994 in Australia that I'd like to do the MAF conversion on.

Unfortunately, my UK 1994 MX6's got rear-ended at 40mph (yep, not much left of the trunk) and obviously written off!!!

Bought another 1996, but the ECU wiring is different again, OBDII of course (same two-row connectors here in the UK). Oh no, more mapping work!!

Download the latest PDF (first post) .. which I will continue to work on.. you'll see where I have got to.

My next challenge is to simulate the ATX of the Eunos/Xedos/Millenia ECU with a separate circuit based on the programmable PIC processors. i.e. Send the appropriate pulses to the ECU to satisfy the automatic part of the ECU, so there is no malfunction light.

For example; turbine speed = a 2ms pulse at +/- 5v

If you look at my very first post, I have included some circuit board drawings.. which I intend to make into a more commercial looking plug and play version of the adapter.

There are also links to where you can buy ALL the connectors without butchering an ECU or harness. RS-online seems to the world-wide site. Other sites have them but delivery charges are high.

I just bought 2 x KLP2 ECU's for USD$30 ea. The point is this is the poor man's ECU and performance upgrade.

:grin2:
 

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Hi guys!

Still alive?

This has helped me very much in my search for the ignition and injector problem. Have a mazda 626 1989 folkrace car which I am swapping a 97 xedos9 engine, harness and ecu into. Since all folkrace car run on start switches, I threw away the ignition lock and the key. That was before I knew it was an immobilizer car (or knew what it even was). KLL2C is the ecu model.
Have found a KL47 ecu now online and I was just wondering if it will fire up with an immobilizer harness? Does any wires go through the immobilizer in any way, or will it fire right up? Can remove the immobilizer as well if that helps with the KL47.

I have checked the ecu for 12v where it's supposed to have it, ground, injector ground, injectors, cam and crank signal and it's all there. But no spark and nothing from the injectors when cranking. I have fuel in the fuel rail since the pump is wired through a flip switch (folkrace stuff).

So I know the problem is the immobilizer, the question is just if I would need to change the whole wiring harness or if the KL47 just bypasses the problem.

My ecu pinout match the pictures in this thread, at least the "important" stuff. So I know that the KL47 will plug right in as well.

Any help would be awesome guys, you are really the imobilizer gods! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Hi guys!

Still alive?

This has helped me very much in my search for the ignition and injector problem. Have a mazda 626 1989 folkrace car which I am swapping a 97 xedos9 engine, harness and ecu into. Since all folkrace car run on start switches, I threw away the ignition lock and the key. That was before I knew it was an immobilizer car (or knew what it even was). KLL2C is the ecu model.

Have found a KL47 ecu now online and I was just wondering if it will fire up with an immobilizer harness? Does any wires go through the immobilizer in any way, or will it fire right up? Can remove the immobilizer as well if that helps with the KL47.

I have checked the ecu for 12v where it's supposed to have it, ground, injector ground, injectors, cam and crank signal and it's all there. But no spark and nothing from the injectors when cranking. I have fuel in the fuel rail since the pump is wired through a flip switch (folkrace stuff).

So I know the problem is the immobilizer, the question is just if I would need to change the whole wiring harness or if the KL47 just bypasses the problem.

My ecu pinout match the pictures in this thread, at least the "important" stuff. So I know that the KL47 will plug right in as well.

Any help would be awesome guys, you are really the imobilizer gods! :)
I need more detail!!

The immobiliser is purely at the ECU level (not the harness, and this ECU is NOT the problem). A KL47 ECU should be OK, no immobiliser. You will need the full harness for a later Xedos 9 engine (of course, which I know you have) with all the necessary cabling to 12v power, and ground has been done. The ECU controls the fuel pump, and ground to the fuel rails, so switches may be a problem?! You may need to give the ECU control over those relays. (i.e. some resistance may be detected to say the fuel pump is active)

Xmaster19 may be able to provide more practical expertise, as he has done it, for a later car. I have been more theoretical. :)

This guide/howto is more for later 626/mx6 i.e. 1993+ 2nd gen to a later model so is a little beyond my knowledge for pre 1993.

I like what you are doing, sounds great! :grin2: Keep me posted!!

Where are you in the WORLD?
 

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This is all way over my head. But I would like to share my experience.

Owner of 1994 mx6, 2.5l v6
Put in a KLZE engine from Japan, KL31 cams. No problem at all with the electronics.
Finished that engine.
Put in a Millenia KL engine 2.5 l from Japan. Previous distributor did not work. Remanufactured
distributor from auto parts store didn't work. Newly made distributor from auto parts store, car started
right up.
No change at all to ECU, original still in car
 

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I need more detail!!

The immobiliser is purely at the ECU level (not the harness, and this ECU is NOT the problem). A KL47 ECU should be OK, no immobiliser. You will need the full harness for a later Xedos 9 engine (of course, which I know you have) with all the necessary cabling to 12v power, and ground has been done. The ECU controls the fuel pump, and ground to the fuel rails, so switches may be a problem?! You may need to give the ECU control over those relays. (i.e. some resistance may be detected to say the fuel pump is active)

Xmaster19 may be able to provide more practical expertise, as he has done it, for a later car. I have been more theoretical. :)

This guide/howto is more for later 626/mx6 i.e. 1993+ 2nd gen to a later model so is a little beyond my knowledge for pre 1993.

I like what you are doing, sounds great! :grin2: Keep me posted!!

Where are you in the WORLD?
Thank you for some more information. You don't need to know anything pre 93 really, since all the wires etc has been changed. It's just a folkrace car, so I don't care about any check engine lights and so on, I just need spark and the injectors to pulse. I have neither atm. I actually received the KL47B ecu in the mail today, so I'm gonna go to the garage tomorrow and see if I have either spark or injector pulse, or maybe both if I'm lucky and she'll fire right up.

I am using the xedos9 engine harness and under dash harness, and the fuel pump is just hotwired to a switch. I hear multiple relays kick in when I connect the battery (ignition is hotwired).
I know for a fact that both the main relay and the efi/egi also kicks in (it's called efi on toyota, don't really remember what mazda call it now when I'm writing). Along with a click from the fuel rail ish and some other relays clonking as well. I have measured 12v to the ecu, connection between the distributor/cam sensor, ground, injectors etc and it all seems to at least have contact with the ecu. So therefore I'm hoping to just change the ecu, remove the immobilizer box and fire right up. Fingers crossed!

I'll get back to you in approx 24 hours from this post with an update.

I'm in Norway btw! This is just my folkrace car, and the original 2.2l engine became rather slow now that everyone else builds 325 bmws with 192hp stock. So when I got a savage deal on a crashed xedos9, I couldn't resist. The engine started and worked nicely when it sat in the xedos9. It was an auto tho, and now I have put a mx3 transmission in it (shorter ratios than mx6) and welded the diff. Don't know if that might have something to do with the spark/injector pulse as well? Might the ecu get angry if it doesn't register that the car is in park or something like that? I wouldn't think so, but who knows. I mean, this harness is much more advanced than the one I have the most experience with, which is my AE86 with a 4AGZE swap with a SC14 charger and a W58 transmission (if you know what any of those things are), and compared to the mazda, the AE86 wiring was just a walk in the park. I have rewired it now tho with a stand alone, putting out 320hp. So that's fun.

Thanks again!
 

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Great news...

Are you fully operational, then?

It would be great if you could check your final wiring against my pinouts. I still have a 1994 in Australia that I'd like to do the MAF conversion on.

Unfortunately, my UK 1994 MX6's got rear-ended at 40mph (yep, not much left of the trunk) and obviously written off!!!

Bought another 1996, but the ECU wiring is different again, OBDII of course (same two-row connectors here in the UK). Oh no, more mapping work!!

Download the latest PDF (first post) .. which I will continue to work on.. you'll see where I have got to.

My next challenge is to simulate the ATX of the Eunos/Xedos/Millenia ECU with a separate circuit based on the programmable PIC processors. i.e. Send the appropriate pulses to the ECU to satisfy the automatic part of the ECU, so there is no malfunction light.

For example; turbine speed = a 2ms pulse at +/- 5v

If you look at my very first post, I have included some circuit board drawings.. which I intend to make into a more commercial looking plug and play version of the adapter.

There are also links to where you can buy ALL the connectors without butchering an ECU or harness. RS-online seems to the world-wide site. Other sites have them but delivery charges are high.

I just bought 2 x KLP2 ECU's for USD$30 ea. The point is this is the poor man's ECU and performance upgrade.

:grin2:
My car is done but there is still work to do before I can daily it. The brakes needs a once over because the car got only 1500 kms in 2 years. I have an axle seal leaking. Stuff like that. Nothing wiring related though. Everything is on point electrically, only have the TCM code left. It should be noted I don't have rear O2 sensors plugged in and no code for that yet.

Your idea of reproducing a TCM seems great but needlessly complicated. I'm pretty sure I could pull a TCM from the scrapyard and make it work with less energy spent. But that's only happening if I want to get rid of all TCM codes and I want to get the traction control working. Do you plan on producing them or only a one off for your own car?

Glad to hear you're okay, that must have been quite a hit. Metal can be repaired or replaced...

I have a KLP2 here also, do you have information that implies the KLP2 might have a better tune? If so, with what intake/cams setup?
 

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Hi guys!

Still alive?

This has helped me very much in my search for the ignition and injector problem. Have a mazda 626 1989 folkrace car which I am swapping a 97 xedos9 engine, harness and ecu into. Since all folkrace car run on start switches, I threw away the ignition lock and the key. That was before I knew it was an immobilizer car (or knew what it even was). KLL2C is the ecu model.
Have found a KL47 ecu now online and I was just wondering if it will fire up with an immobilizer harness? Does any wires go through the immobilizer in any way, or will it fire right up? Can remove the immobilizer as well if that helps with the KL47.

I have checked the ecu for 12v where it's supposed to have it, ground, injector ground, injectors, cam and crank signal and it's all there. But no spark and nothing from the injectors when cranking. I have fuel in the fuel rail since the pump is wired through a flip switch (folkrace stuff).

So I know the problem is the immobilizer, the question is just if I would need to change the whole wiring harness or if the KL47 just bypasses the problem.

My ecu pinout match the pictures in this thread, at least the "important" stuff. So I know that the KL47 will plug right in as well.

Any help would be awesome guys, you are really the imobilizer gods! :)
First, it should be noted that I haven't had the chance of playing around in a car with stock wiring and immobilizer intact. I also couldn't find wiring diagrams anywhere and haven't seen one yet. My info mostly comes from reading tech bulletins, obscure TSBs, crosschecking Mazda sell sheets and google translating foreign language docs that were pretty hard to find in the first place. It should not be taken as absolute truth and absolutely be counter-verified. My research revolved around the 1998 KLK1 ECU in my search for spark.

Buuuut from what I understand, it seems like there is wiring between the ecu and the immobilizer unit (computer). The ring that reads the key code is wired in the immobilizer unit directly. The immobilizer type has a name, but I can't remember it at the moment. I'll chime in when it comes back. The keyS (need at least 2 to reprogram the immobilizer for a new key), the immobilizer unit and ECU should be matched to work. Not sure about the ring but I'd guess so too. The ECU can be reprogrammed to set new keys codes and such but it involves soldering some sort of home made circuit directly to the immobilizer chip, similar to EPROM on DSM's. The immobilizer unit disables only the fuel pump in earlier years (95-98ish), then also disabled the ignition (97-2002ish) and probably did something more after 2000 but I did not look that up. The key, when inserted in the ignition, is read by the ring, then it's code is sent to the immobilizer unit which in turn sends a code (not sure if same) to the ECU, which in turn activates the fuel pump and possibly releases the ign trigger signal to the dist. Cars have been equipped from 95 or even before with this type of immobilizer as an option then from 98 came on most KL equipped cars. That's pretty much all I can remember about that system.

Regarding your car, I don't think the immobilizer will be a problem as the KL47 does not have provisions for it. The wiring will most likely lead to an empty ecu pin anyways. The ecu pinouts should be looked up on both ECU's to be sure they match but that's it. You don't even have to remove anything if you don't wan't to. The KL47 ecu has to be used with a MAF, either KJ01 or KL47, so be sure you have that. Verify the ECU comes on using the check engine light or an OBD2 code reader before messing with anything else.
 

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This is all way over my head. But I would like to share my experience.

Owner of 1994 mx6, 2.5l v6
Put in a KLZE engine from Japan, KL31 cams. No problem at all with the electronics.
Finished that engine.
Put in a Millenia KL engine 2.5 l from Japan. Previous distributor did not work. Remanufactured
distributor from auto parts store didn't work. Newly made distributor from auto parts store, car started
right up.
No change at all to ECU, original still in car

There are different distributor pinout throughout the years. Here, 626/millenia/mx3's and mx6's/probes don't share the same distributor and mx3's even had 3 different models between 92 and 96. It is not widely known and many part shops will sell one another without distinction, even if they shouldn't. Heck, I sell car parts at work and my supplier have their part numbers all wrong yet they are the biggest car part supplier here in Quebec... Also, you should google MAZDA HEI MOD and read into it.
 

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Thank you for some more information. You don't need to know anything pre 93 really, since all the wires etc has been changed. It's just a folkrace car, so I don't care about any check engine lights and so on, I just need spark and the injectors to pulse. I have neither atm. I actually received the KL47B ecu in the mail today, so I'm gonna go to the garage tomorrow and see if I have either spark or injector pulse, or maybe both if I'm lucky and she'll fire right up.

I am using the xedos9 engine harness and under dash harness, and the fuel pump is just hotwired to a switch. I hear multiple relays kick in when I connect the battery (ignition is hotwired).
I know for a fact that both the main relay and the efi/egi also kicks in (it's called efi on toyota, don't really remember what mazda call it now when I'm writing). Along with a click from the fuel rail ish and some other relays clonking as well. I have measured 12v to the ecu, connection between the distributor/cam sensor, ground, injectors etc and it all seems to at least have contact with the ecu. So therefore I'm hoping to just change the ecu, remove the immobilizer box and fire right up. Fingers crossed!

I'll get back to you in approx 24 hours from this post with an update.

I'm in Norway btw! This is just my folkrace car, and the original 2.2l engine became rather slow now that everyone else builds 325 bmws with 192hp stock. So when I got a savage deal on a crashed xedos9, I couldn't resist. The engine started and worked nicely when it sat in the xedos9. It was an auto tho, and now I have put a mx3 transmission in it (shorter ratios than mx6) and welded the diff. Don't know if that might have something to do with the spark/injector pulse as well? Might the ecu get angry if it doesn't register that the car is in park or something like that? I wouldn't think so, but who knows. I mean, this harness is much more advanced than the one I have the most experience with, which is my AE86 with a 4AGZE swap with a SC14 charger and a W58 transmission (if you know what any of those things are), and compared to the mazda, the AE86 wiring was just a walk in the park. I have rewired it now tho with a stand alone, putting out 320hp. So that's fun.

Thanks again!
The KL47 ecu is an ATX ECU and I'm pretty sure I didn't hook any of the ATX trans related pins on the ecu. I tried to be clever and connect the neutral switch on the manual trans to the neutral/park switch signal on the ecu but that messed with the idle so i cut it off with no issue. I'd advise against connecting any. I'd still connect the brake switch to the ECU though.

At the very least, you need to wire up the MAF, IAT sensor, TPS, injector rails, coolant temp, alternator and starter, VICS, crank sensor and distributor.

No O2 needed, egr, IAC valve, knock sensor, etc. Seems pretty simple once everything is gone!
 

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I never had a problem with my original distributor that came with the car. It lasted for 22 years, and likely would have kept going. But when I was putting all kinds of replacement parts in at the 200,000 mile mark, I decided to get a new distributor also. I guess a lot of drivers are interested in the HEI mod for reliability, but I never experienced that problem.

Now the new distributor with the replacement engine is working well. It has the same firing order as the original KL engine, and the distributor is also a fit for the original 1994 KL engine. That was a complete surprise, because the distributor cap that came with the replacement engine has a completely different firing order marked into the distributor cap ! Starting from left bottom, it goes 5 4 6 3 2 1 around the circle, whereas the distributor cap order for the new distributor, and in the books, is 4 5 3 2 1 6 !!! How can that be ?

I only have a basic understanding of how the ecm and distributor work together to stop the engine when there is a diagnostic problem, or input failure. The secondary cable harness on the distributor has 8 or 9 wires bundled. If one of these, such as the knock sensor, does not send a signal to the distributor, will that shut down the engine, or keep it from starting ? How does that circuit go - the distributor checks for a knock sensor signal, via the ecm, and if not there, will not start ?
 
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