[neubauerpee]

Not sure... as some of the ECUs I have don't have the labels anymore.

Here is a picture of the key differences.

View attachment 13487

Take a picture of the PCB and post it. Then I can look at the ECUs I have.

 

[gwq_uk]

https://ecu-service.info/en/offer/downloadfile/id_file/146

Just found this.. Is IC660 printed 93C56 like in the pdf?

Looked at IC 1660 it is
"9608EAI
TC97101P
Japan"

 

[gwq_uk]

Yes I have that ECU see this picture

But there appear to be differences.. is it from a manual trans car?

 

[neubauerpee]

Yes I have that ECU see this picture

But there appear to be differences.. is it from a manual trans car?

View attachment 13489

Mine is from an automatic car. i suppose the second connector is for the auto trans

 

[gwq_uk]

You can see there are no pins on connector 2.. So this ECU is for a manual transmission but still OBDII & MAF

 

[neubauerpee]

I think there is no else to do than try the ECU in the actual car to see if it even works.. Just not now, because my other car is lent to one of my friends, and i dont want to risk F-ing up something in it

 

[gwq_uk]

I think your right, there is only try it and see... I think this ECU is for manual trans - KL68 !! Which if you have a manual trans it won't have any warning lights on the dash.

 

[neubauerpee]

Just for the kicks.. This is the KF41 ECU from the lantis v6, manual, no immobilizer, and OBD1. All lantis had MAFs, B6BF coded like the mx5 nb 1.8.

 

[gwq_uk]

 

[neubauerpee]

Same board ID number as the KL47 (079721-4301) and still, this is an OBD1 ecu altough it has a MAF instead of VAF.. Courious

 

[gwq_uk]

Did you have any success??

I tried my non immobilised ECU in my car with the MAF plugged in (no temp sensor) but the car would not start. I am not sure what I did with the air temp sensor, perhaps it wouldn't start if it does not see that... did not want to waste too much time on it as I need the car as a daily drivers.

 

[neubauerpee]

Did you have any success??

I tried my non immobilised ECU in my car with the MAF plugged in (no temp sensor) but the car would not start. I am not sure what I did with the air temp sensor, perhaps it wouldn't start if it does not see that... did not want to waste too much time on it as I need the car as a daily drivers.

I havent had any time to fiddle with it unfortunately, but if i can try it i will definetly post the results here

 

[neubauerpee]

Did you have any success??

I tried my non immobilised ECU in my car with the MAF plugged in (no temp sensor) but the car would not start. I am not sure what I did with the air temp sensor, perhaps it wouldn't start if it does not see that... did not want to waste too much time on it as I need the car as a daily drivers.

Hello!
I finally rebuilt the engine and swapped it in my lantis, for the break in period i was runnig the KF ecu.

A few days ago i had plugged the KL47 ecu in the harness, wired in the knock sensor, and bypassed the factory immobiliser via wiring the fuel pump relay directly to the ecu output. The car didnt start, only sputtered a bit, but that was with the B6BF maf.

I wired a plug for the factory harness for the KL47 maf and IAT, and now everything works as it should expect for the idle.. it wants to idle at 600rpm no matter what i do to it, and thats too low, the engine shakes a bit.. Maybe it has to do with the kl47 being an automatic trans ecu.. I was thinking to wire constant ground to the range select input, telling the ecu that the trans is always in drive, but i didnt tried that yet.

 

[gwq_uk]

I think the best ECU for a manual trans would be the kl68. It doesn't have the auto pins and supports a MAF & IAT combination.

 

[neubauerpee]

So the car has been running flawless for the past few months, only issues was, the AC fan relay wire was on pin 1V in my harness, and the KL47 ecu has it on 1B, main cooling fan relay was 1B, on the kl47 it is 1A. repinned it, now works as should.
The idle is erratic, as it often leaves the car idling at about 1200rpm for 30 sec before dropping it back to about 600. Changed the IAC valve for a known good one, still the same, so this must be an issue with the ecu programmed to an automatic trans.

I have messed with the OBDII reader, still couldnt get it to communicate with the ecu, and the old style (LED and paperclip) diagnostics doesnt work.
xmaster19 did mention that he had the KL47 ecu and was able to communicate with it. I know this must be a lost cause, but if you read this, please share the wiring for the obdII plug. I have tried on 1D and 1F pins, the scanner sends an intitialization sequence, but no response from the ecu.

I dropped the KLK1 ecu altogether. I tried the KL47 ecu in, l could finally communicate with it through my scanner. I'm also confident it will control spark. Didn't have to change any wires from the KLK1 pinout. I'm also hours away from my first start. Thanks again for your work, it definitely helped me through my ecu/wiring head aches.

Here's the wiring diagram from a 95 millenia which matches your KLK1 ecu pinout, if it can be of help to anyone :

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=47421

 

[project_B10]

There are two distinct ECU pinouts ... one for the v6 2.5L OBDI (1992 - 1995) and the other for v6 2.5L OBDII (1996 - 1997) ... what year is the KLY6 ECU?

ie. OBDI or OBDII

Wow I am so sorry that I am late to the party. This is a very very long shot!!

I understand the ECU is model year 1998 and OBDII

 

[M3lvo]

Back from the dead again
I think I might need another ecu.
While indeed the kl68 (kl6818881D) is a manual version, its also from 94-95 only.
And the kfa1 is 99 the plugs are the same though but still.
Don't know if the kl68 has an immo but I think the kfa1 for sure does.

 

[M3lvo]

Its so frustrating because I can't figure out if the KL68 180881D has an immo or not.
Or if the KFA1 has an immo or not