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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is the egr from a millenia s (miller cycle supercharged) compatible with the mx6?? From what I read, the gaskets are the same, so fitment isn't an issue, the position sensor is the same, so that's not an issue. The only thing is, although they look exactly alike, the part number is slightly off. I mean on rockauto the 6 egr is xxx1000 and the millenia is xxx999?? Would it work?

The only reason I ask is that I might change out the egr if cleaning doesn't work, and there's a millennia in the wrecking yard with a shiny new egr on it. It's also much easier to get to compared to the 6's in the yard.

Any help is much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, I am going to grab it, but I still don't know if it will work?

Has anyone tried this, or know if it can be used?
 

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No, its completely different. the millenia S EGR is much shorter and the pipe won't reach. Why do you think you need an EGR? In the last 8 years of working on these cars i've seen 2 bad EGR valves. 99% of the time it was the switch on the top, or a clogged intake manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No, its completely different. the millenia S EGR is much shorter and the pipe won't reach. Why do you think you need an EGR? In the last 8 years of working on these cars i've seen 2 bad EGR valves. 99% of the time it was the switch on the top, or a clogged intake manifold.
I'm not sure if I need an egr. I'm in the process of taking it off. I hope that cleaning it will remedy the problem. I was thinking worst case scenario if it was pooched, would the millennia egr work. What part of it is shorter? Seemed identical to me?
 

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The distance between the orphace and the EGR pipe is shorter on a millenia S. What makes you think your car needs an EGR valve?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The distance between the orphace and the EGR pipe is shorter on a millenia S. What makes you think your car needs an EGR valve?
I'm not sure I need an egr valve. Hopefully I will find out in an hour! lol

I'm taking the intake manifold off now, hopefully because the car was rebuilt in 2001, the egr pipe isn't too seized on. Once I get the egr off, I will know better if it's the sensor or valve itself. I was just asking because I saw that shiny new egr valve on the millennia at the scrappers. They are REALLY easy to get to and take off, and they would fit in my pocket=FREE! lol

I'll post back if I'm successful taking off the egr today.

Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, so I'm at the egr. I'm working on taking off the position sensor. Does anyone have resistance values of what it SHOULD read? I know it goes by voltage, which I will check on my bench power supply. If not resistance, does anyone know which way voltage reading go? IE, if the egr is closed, does it read 5v or 0v? also when the sensor travels, does the voltage reading drop or go up?

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This is becoming a very one sided thread! LOL

Anyways, I checked the position sensor, it reads out 2.3v at rest (egr closed) and 4.8v at absolute open. These tests were done with the sensor out of the car, hooked to a computer power supply on the 5v rail, so I know the input voltage was 5v +/- .01v... So the sensor seems to be in spec. There is no short or open condition...

Does this mean the egr is stuck? Code 16 is thrown within 3 seconds of startup.

Does the egr open right at startup?

I really hope it's not the valve... I'm dreading taking that bloody thing off :(
 

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If you want to test the valve, its pretty simple. with the car COLD(don't do this when its hot, you WILL regret it). Reach around the back and put your finger tips inside the diaphram and pull it up. When you release you should be able to hear the valve close. If it feels crunchy then most definately the valve is bad-generally this happens on older mazdas though.
Next, pull the vacuum supply line off of the valve and pull the valve up. put your finger over the nipple on the valve with the valve up. If you hear the valve return to its seat when you let go of the diaphram with your finger on the vacuum nipple, the diaphram is bad. If you DONT, then the diaphram is GOOD and your problems are Pre-EGR valve or post EGR in the harness.

What supplys vacuum to the EGR? the EGR purge and vent solenoids. at idle, the EGR should NOT be open, thus your EGR valve should NOT get vacuum.if you put a vacuum/boost gauge on the line going to the valve, and fire it up, and see vacuum. one of the solenoids is stuck or you have a vacuum line in the wrong spot.

Since the code is thrown so quickly, i would conduct a continuity test between the EGR position sensor connector and the ECU pin. Next i would tap into those wires at the ECU and see if the ECU sees the valve open or not.

Do these and see what happens.
 

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I seem to remember that the ecu does an egr check at startup by "telling" it to open and close, and if it doesn't, then it throws a code. I had the same issue where right at startup I would get the code, until I cleaned it and put it back. I wouldn't want to go through all of that hassle again. One thing you could do is open it with your fingers like Miester says, and that might be enough to break it free and temporarily solve your problem until it gets gummed up again and requires a cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok, you guys have to explain to me where to get my fingers in lol

I felt around the egr, and found no place i could push the diaphram to check.

Although I think it is stuck, i tried putting a vaccuum pump to it, and the valve didn't seem to budge. I don't understand why, it was working fine before, and the car has just been sitting there. Does the crud in there harden up which could cause the stuck condition?

Thanks for all the help.
 

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I think Mazda Meister is right...listen to him....

:jump:
"In the last 8 years of working on these cars i've seen 2 bad EGR valves. 99% of the time it was the switch on the top, or a clogged intake manifold."

I went to all the trouble of taking my EGR off a few months ago and cleaning it, but all that was wrong with it was one of the EGR solenoids needed to be replaced.

The EGR valve itself could have remained untouched.

(on the V6 egr there is no place you can manually feel the disphragm...it's very much enclosed, far as I know)
 

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To test it manually you need to take it off. Using a pen, push in where the EGR pipe would connect to, and you will see the valve go up. When it's up, put your finger over the nipple. If the valve stays, it holds vacuum and it works. If the valve goes back down, the valve is bad.
 

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Here's a pic with the openings circled where you have to get your fingers in and push on the metal disc in there towards the black solenoid at the top. The two openings I circled are blocked by the pipes it seems, but the other two openings should be easy to get your fingers into. The crud does seem to harden up if the car's just sitting, so that's probably what happened to you.

 

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Here's a pic with the openings circled where you have to get your fingers in and push on the metal disc in there towards the black solenoid at the top. The two openings I circled are blocked by the pipes it seems, but the other two openings should be easy to get your fingers into. The crud does seem to harden up if the car's just sitting, so that's probably what happened to you.


Yep. Thats right. It should be on the backside of the valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
FYI an update for you guys...

It turns out the egr was stuck WIDE OPEN!! I put my fingers in, and couldn't feel anything, so with the sensor off, I saw a little nub inside the egr. I decided that maybe I can get my long nose pliers in there to pull it up. When I put the pliers in there to get a grip, I heard a little muffled pop. What did I see? The diaphram moved significantly away from the sensor hole! LOL

I put the sensor on again, and worked it open and closed numerous times, it was jamming up a bit the first couple of times, but now it moves freely!

Fluke, dumb luck, whatever it is, it's working fine now. I'm in the process of getting everything back together. Just took a break to update, and to warm up my toes and fingers lol

Come to think of it, that was probably my idle problem as well. EGR constantly open would stall out the motor at idle... :jump:

So I'll get everything together, and post back how it's doing.

Thanks to everyone that helped me and offered suggestions!! Karma coming your way!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Well, after a bit if time on it (between warm up breaks lol), she purrs like a kitten!! I'M SO HAPPY!!!! No CEL, no idle issues (well except for the 3000rpm idle because I had to set the idle so high up for it to run before).

It's about friggin time this crap is sorted out!

Thanks to all again!!

PS - PaulG I wanted to give you rep, but apparently I have just recently, so I have to spread it around! lol
 

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So, is this the solution to Code 16?
I thought cleaning the throttle body was the solution. Please let me know, which one, so I can follow the proper process. Thanks.
 
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