Emissions test - to pass or not to pass?

Bad news - fail

So here's the results:



4 out of 5 areas I passed with amazing numbers -- why is the NOppm so bad? What should I look to first? Would the 'guaranteed to pass' stuff help me with this?

Spark plugs

After reading this thread last year:

http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-general/151866-klze-spark-plugs.html

I have been using NGK Iridium BKR6IX11 plugs (post #24) which are supposed to be the stock plugs for the KLZE engine, since they are shorter and a step colder (than stock KLDE ZFR5F-11 plugs) to accomodate for the higher compression.

The plugs that came out of the KLZE engine we put in in August are: ZFR6FGP, the '6' instead of the '5' in the klde stock plug representing one step colder.

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I dropped in the 'Guaranteed to Pass' stuff yesterday, have to run the full tank before I can test again.

I have an AFPR -- So you're saying if I should turn up the pressure on that to run rich (I run at 45psi now)? Wouldn't the fumes of more fuel in the exhaust cause the readings to be worse? How does this work?

So, here's a few things I read online... As with any internet info, questionable at best, but hey, we're clutching at straws here now.


Ethanol Fuels | Energy Development Initiative | Science, Technology, Energy and Mines | Province of Manitoba
(see the paragraph that starts "The downside of gasohol...")

"The downside of gasohol use can be increased emissions of nitrogen oxides (NOx)" ... "The degree to which emissions increase depends on the vehicle and emission control technology used."


General Information on Vehicle Emissions Reduction - ADB.org
(see section "ii. Ethanol")

"The auto/oil study concluded that there was a statistically significant increase in NOx of about 5% with the addition of 10% ethanol."


Call me nuts, but the only 94 octane I know of in Ontario is Sunoco's ethanol blend. What percent ethanol is it? Perhaps running the normal 91 might increase your HC and CO a smidge, but bring the NO in line? I mean, doing so would require retiming, but still.

Also, failing that, or in addition to that, you can retard your timing; I think this also reduces NO while raising the other readings though, so be careful as you do so. You're more than welcome to borrow my timing light anytime, just give me a call to make sure I'm home.

Oh, and one last thing, get rid of that CEL. As I understand, doesn't your computer "re-learn" it's air/fuel ratios whenever you reset the CPU? If this is true, maybe you're buggering yourself with the last minute code reset. I never reset my CPU within a week of E-test day, I set my timing and everything the week before and get a good few days of driving on it first. So if at all possible, I'd really try to diagnose that CEL code first. Unless it's the EGR bypass one, I guess that'd be problematic.