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Engine cutting out

6194 Views 9 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  DQUIK1
Hi All,
Would like a bit of help with trouble shooting on our normally ultra reliable stock 2Gen auto V6. with 160k on the clock

It keeps cutting out while we’re driving it but restarts immediately. Had a similar sort of problem 4-5 years ago and replaced the dizzy. The difference is that before you had to wait 15-20 min. before it would restart, this time it restarts instantly.

Took it in to the shop and the tech hooked it up to the engine analyser but there were so many codes there he couldn’t tell which one was causing the problem. He cleared all the codes out and of course it hasn’t stopped since!

I tend to think it is more a spark problem than fuel at it cuts out cleanly with out coughing and farting like it is starved of fuel. Also the meter tells me it’s charging over 14v so it shouldn’t be playing up due to a lack of electrons in the system.

Anybody got any good guesses where to start looking? And if it is the dizzy again how much should I expect to pay for a non OEM? I’ve been quoted $400.

Cheers,
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id say its the dizzy again.. but do you know how to look at the codes your self?
what year is your car.
Its a '92 model and its just gone for 2 days with out a problem!

Yes please Mr MX6, I'd like to learn the secrets of mind reading a MX6's secret thoughts. Please initiate me in the mystic art!
Locate and open the "Diagnostic" box under the hood. It's between the battery and the fender. Below is
shown a representation of the pins inside the Diagnostic box:
The pins labelled "TEN" (which stands for "Test ENgine" by the way) and GND (ground) are the pins of interest. Make sure the ignition is OFF and use a paperclip to jumper the TEN and GND pins together.



Note:
E and J spec cars dont have a CE light .. conect a LED+Resistor or 12V-LED to the B+ terminal, and the free resistor - end to the FEN terminal. this will flash in place of the cel..

Turn on the ignition (do not start the car) and watch the CEL. After about 4-seconds, it will begin to flash any codes that may be stored. If there are no codes stored, the CEL will not flash (it will go out.)

Malfunction codes are generally 2-digit affairs although Mazda decided to get tricky. They include 2-digit codes that involve '0' (zero) as a digit. Code 02 is one example. Code 10 is another.
The codes are broken into a 10s digit and a 1s digit. The 10s digit is flashed first, followed by the 1s digit. The digits are distinguished by the length of time they flash the CEL. 10s digits flash the CEL on for 1.2-sec while 1s digits flash the CEL for 0.4-sec. Digits that are '0' (zero) flash the CEL exactly zero times.


Note how the presumably single-digit code '3' flashes the CEL for short-pulses only. This indicates the 10s digit is zero for this code. The image below illustrates what the CEL would do if, say, a code 24 were the only code present. Note that it's "dark" (off) for 4-seconds, then the code flashes (long flashes are 10s digits, short flashes are 1s digits). Since this is the only code, there is a 4-second pause between flashing sequences.

If you find yourself saying "Uh-oh"...
Notice in the above drawing that the TEN pin is located right next to the B+ pin... If you screw up and connect the B+ pin to the GND pin, you'll cause a short circuit when the ignition is switched on. You'll probably notice that the instrument cluster gauges don't work any more, along with other systems of the car. If you've done this, check the METER fuse in the fuse panel inside the car. Once you've replaced it, your gauges should operate as normal.

Interpreting the Codes:
There are quite a few codes. The following table shows the codes for the 1994 Probe GT (and a couple for the 1993) and what they mean. For FS (4-cyl) MECS-equipped engine codes, go here:
Code Circuit Diagnosed Memorized?
02 'NE2' crankshaft position sensor Yes
03 'G' camshaft position sensor Yes
04 'NE1' camshaft/crankshaft position sensor yes
05 Knock sensor Yes
08 Volume Air Flow sensor (VAF) Yes
09 Coolant temperature sensor (CTS) Yes
10 Intake air temperature sensor (IAT) Yes
12 Throttle position sensor (TPS) Yes
14 Barometric pressure sensor Yes
15 LHO2S inactivation error Yes
16 Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system Yes
17 LHO2S inversion error Yes
23 RHO2S inactivation error Yes
24 RHO2S inversion error Yes
25 Fuel pressure regulator control solenoid Yes
26 Canister purge solenoid No
28 EGR vacuum solenoid No
29 EGR vent solenoid No
34 Idle air control (IAC) solenoid No
41 VRIS #1 solenoid No
46 VRIS #2 solenoid No
67 LFAN relay (1993 only) No
69 ECTF sensor (1993 only) Yes
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Thanks for all that info Mr MX6, But.............I dont want to appear stupid buts whats a CEL and where do I find it?
see the red text under the pic...
but yea we dont have cel.. thats why you use the led or a 12 v multimeter(analog works best).
Hi

I had the same issue it was the ignition module went to Sandgate Auto Electrics Sandgate brisbane,cost was $300 for a Bosh Ignition module. The electrician was great and saved me from buying a distrubtor for $1400 Goes like a dream again. Eventually i will also get the coil for it
It is the ignition module, mine went a few weeks ago. http://www.mx6.com/forums/australia-new-zealand/215099-hei-mod.html Do the HEI mod the module to use is a champion CM410 or CM408 and you can get it at any repco store for about $40
Here is the diagram you need
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Thanks for you help.

Thanks for all your imput guys, it helped me pin point the problem.
The car ran with out fault for the last month but now the weather has warmed up again it back to running like a second hand chainsaw again. I'm at Redcliffe so it looks like I'm off to see Grinches mate at Sandgate. The HEI mod looks good until I spotted the word "Champion" which had me worried as they are a close relation to the Prince of Darkness, Lucas! No, seriously, its the Trouble and Strifes car so I daren't cut corners as her mobile phones playing up as well and if she gets stuck on the side of the road one more time I'll be auditioning for the Vienna Boys Choir!

Cheers,
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