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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a 1995 LS w/ 108,000 mi on it. Bascially it was running just fine and my camshaft sensor went bad. I had the mechanic replace the distributor and I've got my car back now but the engine is running rough at idle and up through 2,000 RPMs or so.

I've tried searching the forums to narrow my problem down but it seems the causes could be too numerous. I took it back to the mechanic because my car has never done this before he did the work and he claims they didn't do anything that could affect the idle or how the engine is running. I'd really rather not take it back there since I already way overpaid for the distributor work and I feel like he's giving me the run around. I just know he'd charge me another $75 to pull the codes AGAIN to fix a problem I didn't have before he got his hands on it.

He also mentioned that they checked the plugs and wires (during the diagnostics for the earlier problem) and they were fine and I had to rotor/cap replaced with that work as well. It's also burning through gas MUCH quicker (I think I've lost 10mi/gal on my mileage or so).

I don't have a lot of experience working on my car but I'm really looking to fix this myself. I know enough about cars to diagnose a problem in a general way but the easier any advice is to understand the better (such as locations of certain things in the engine bay). Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give.
 

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this could be SO MANY things....my advice is don't take crap from some assholes that screwed up your car. Go to the shop, insist to the MANAGER that they fix their mistake and if they refuse, threaten to call the better business bureau and if they still refuse, then actually call the BBB. How old are you? No offense if you're young, but maybe you'll need someone older to go with you to back you up.

Having said that, reassure that all of your spark plug wires are seated well and that they are plugged in correctly to the dist cap (this is the "cap" that all of the wires run to on the right side of the engine, if you're look from the front)

The correct spark wire order in the engine bay is:

1 3 5
2 4 6

Trace the wires to the dis cap - on the side of the cap there are little numbers on the side that say which cylinder the wire should be running to. Good luck and DON'T TAKE CRAP FROM ANYONE. And, having said that, learn to work on your car and don't take it to a mechanic anymore - unless you live in upstate NY where I found ONE good mechanic at Varna Auto in Ithaca, NY. My two cents.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the advice. I'm 22 by the way but I don't think I'll have a problem. I was thinking that might be the best thing to do but like you said I really do want to learn to work on my car. I love it and it bothers me that I don't really know how to work under the hood. Reading how to do things on the boards helps my understanding of how everything works but it's hardly a substitue for experience...

I suppose at the very least I should pick up the Haynes manual since most people recommend at least doing that....
 

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You're not 17 so I don't think that the shop will give you too much trouble.

Don't feel bad about not knowing the MX-6 that well - it's a cool car with about 3,000 things that could cause the problem you are talking about. I am a fairly proficient mechanic, and still can't figure out why my car has a hesitation problem - it's been 7 months and I still can't figure it out!!!

Grab a good service manual, and flow it step by step.... even if you rechek things or it takes a few days of silly tests, if you solve the problem, then it's worth it.
 

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I don't know a lot about these cars but I'm quickly learning, especially in the last few weeks since my cars been running so bad. Of course, I still haven't isolated the problem, but I'm continuing to play. I'm just glad it's still running. My idle is adjusted to about 1100 rpms so it doesn't stall out though. Oh well...now I'm just pissed that I've paid people in the past to do stupid stuff like tune-ups and brakes that now I can do in an afternoon (or realistically weekend when I screw up everything else in the process...but hey,who's counting right?) It's all part of the game. GAME ON....:E
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The mechanic also mentioned that they tightened down the large plastic peices that carry the air into the engine. I don't know exactly what he tightened but he claims that they were loose enough that you could just pull them out of the joint. Since all that stuff seems to be near the TPS and I've read a lot on the forums about that I wonder if he could have knocked it out of adjustment... I've tried loosening them up again but nothing changes.

I've read a lot of posts and replies about adjusting the TPS and the idle, but a lot of it goes over my head due to my lack of practical experience. At least in regards to where things are located like the IAC or the idle screw and exactly how to go about jumping the 10 and grd (I gather that anything conductive that can take the current placed between them would do it though).

Thanks again for all the responses.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I found the problem. Long story short, I was readjusting the TPS and adjusting the idle while I was at it and as I was adjusting the idle screw I noticed that down on the bottom side of the distributor the #2 plug wire wasn't even connected. I got in there and connected and made sure it was secure and sure enough my engine is nice and quiet again and running well. I think I'm going to avoid taking my car to the mechanic again if this is what I can expect from them, especially when I paid so much to have it done.

I really appreciate the (semi-)obvious advice. I guess I just figured that since I took it back to the mechanic once after the repairs he would have double checked his work before going off on me about unmetered air (and a bunch of other junk that could have been causing it). Next time I'm out I'm gonna pick up a repair manual learn to fix my baby myself.
 
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