Joined
·
663 Posts
Okay, we delved today to try and find the mysterious problem plaguing my new engine. Newly rebuilt, whatever.
FYI, it's a 1988 MX-6 Turbo. If you're reading this post, and dont' know what problems I'm referring to, please, read the post "Trouble with new engine" I don't want to repeat myself because this post is already REALLY long.
One thing we found out is that the EGR valve is not operating properly. After taking it off and using about 3 cans of B-12 and getting almost ALL the soot off, and making sure the diaphragm moves freely, it still doesn't work. No trouble codes or anything, but, if you put your finger on it and rev the engine, the diaphragm doesn't move a bit. However, if you remove the vacuum hose going to the airbox, and suck on it a little, the diaphragm moves just fine and the engine stalls. Any ideas? We cleaned out the little nipple that the hose goes on and it's fine. Just not getting any vacuum there. Also, after messing with stuff for a while, I turned up a trouble code 4. Crankshaft position sensor #2. I didn't know I had one sensor let alone two. Where would I find this so I can check it? My Haynes manual says nothing about it.
My water thermo sensor <I think that's what it is, it's at the bottom of the radiator near the drain plug> is new, but, I don't have the connector, it broke when removing the old one, and you can't get the connectors. It's not hooked up, but I don't think it'd make that big a deal. If I'm wrong, please correct me. And then go out and see which lead from the sensor goes where on the wiring harness, it's only two wires! The other thing is I'm pretty sure I have a bad seal on my turbo. Oil keeps mysteriously appearing on the housing and burning off, and whenever I've revved the engine, and the rpm's come down, smoke pours out of the tailpipe. Can't be valve seals because I just had the head rebuilt. Could that contribute to backfiring and loss of power at 4000 rpms?
I'm about at my wits end, but, for the sake of my marriage, I don't really wanna spend hella cash at a repair shop, if I can do it myself, and save money, the happier my wife, and consequently, myself, will be.
Thanks for everyone that responded on my earlier post. Just to let you know what I've tried that didn't work, here's the list:
Changed plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Changed out the distributor. Switched the VAF meter. Changed the EGR valve. Checked vacuum routing and hose fittings. Two hoses are somewhat loose, they slide right on and off with the clamps attached. Still looking into replacing those. Otherwise vacuum hoses look fine. Timing has been checked, set, rechecked, and reset and is as close to perfect as we could get it. Changed out the igniter. Put in a new coil, OEM style. Checked fuel pressure, it's 40 psi through all rpms. Fuel filter is new. PCV valve is new. Air filter is new, not that it would make a difference.
FYI, it's a 1988 MX-6 Turbo. If you're reading this post, and dont' know what problems I'm referring to, please, read the post "Trouble with new engine" I don't want to repeat myself because this post is already REALLY long.
One thing we found out is that the EGR valve is not operating properly. After taking it off and using about 3 cans of B-12 and getting almost ALL the soot off, and making sure the diaphragm moves freely, it still doesn't work. No trouble codes or anything, but, if you put your finger on it and rev the engine, the diaphragm doesn't move a bit. However, if you remove the vacuum hose going to the airbox, and suck on it a little, the diaphragm moves just fine and the engine stalls. Any ideas? We cleaned out the little nipple that the hose goes on and it's fine. Just not getting any vacuum there. Also, after messing with stuff for a while, I turned up a trouble code 4. Crankshaft position sensor #2. I didn't know I had one sensor let alone two. Where would I find this so I can check it? My Haynes manual says nothing about it.
My water thermo sensor <I think that's what it is, it's at the bottom of the radiator near the drain plug> is new, but, I don't have the connector, it broke when removing the old one, and you can't get the connectors. It's not hooked up, but I don't think it'd make that big a deal. If I'm wrong, please correct me. And then go out and see which lead from the sensor goes where on the wiring harness, it's only two wires! The other thing is I'm pretty sure I have a bad seal on my turbo. Oil keeps mysteriously appearing on the housing and burning off, and whenever I've revved the engine, and the rpm's come down, smoke pours out of the tailpipe. Can't be valve seals because I just had the head rebuilt. Could that contribute to backfiring and loss of power at 4000 rpms?
I'm about at my wits end, but, for the sake of my marriage, I don't really wanna spend hella cash at a repair shop, if I can do it myself, and save money, the happier my wife, and consequently, myself, will be.
Thanks for everyone that responded on my earlier post. Just to let you know what I've tried that didn't work, here's the list:
Changed plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Changed out the distributor. Switched the VAF meter. Changed the EGR valve. Checked vacuum routing and hose fittings. Two hoses are somewhat loose, they slide right on and off with the clamps attached. Still looking into replacing those. Otherwise vacuum hoses look fine. Timing has been checked, set, rechecked, and reset and is as close to perfect as we could get it. Changed out the igniter. Put in a new coil, OEM style. Checked fuel pressure, it's 40 psi through all rpms. Fuel filter is new. PCV valve is new. Air filter is new, not that it would make a difference.