What are you wanting to do? Seal the motormounts? Or use the tube of polyurathane as a "poly insert" ? In which case you'd need a mold of the current motormount and I'm still pretty sure the tube will not suffice as it would be a different consistency.
$5.00 for a tube of poly, one week drying time ( due to the thickness) and you have yoursself a solid poly mount.
Cut a hole in your curent mount in every cavity there is. Then just go to town filling it with poly. There is a little technique to it, but not much. I've filled 10 or so of them. The only time I had a problem is when I didn't let one dry all the way. I've used the black stuff and ttan stuff, both made by the PL brand.
Is this the polyurathane used to hold windows in the car?
Yes, my motormounts are really sloppy, so i want to stiffen them up.
Is the mount on the passenger side (where the timing belt is) suppose to be able to lift apart? mine does.
I used 3M Window Weld fast drying urethane. It dries to the same consistency as the rubber mounts. So they are solid, but still flexible. Most other urethanes are much stiffer and transmit more engine vibrations. $9.00 at most auto parts stores, Advance has it. It comes in a caulk tube, so it is easy to use, just wear gloves as it is difficult to clean off. I placed the mount on its side and squirted in small layers every couple hours so it would cure quicker. It would take days to cure if you shot it all in at once. I would still wait 3 days before installation. You do not want to do this twice if the stuff squirts out under engine torque. Here are 2 installation links. http://importnut.net/motormount.htm http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?p=14602#post14602
The PL brand poly come in two diffrent flavors that I know of. One black, that is more rubbery, but takes longer to dry. The other is a tan color and is as stiff as a solid mount. The black is softer and will have less vibration inside the car. Both are about $3.00 at Home Depot or Lowes. I think the black is for roofing...? Sounds like simular stuff as the Auto window caulk.
I also used the 3M Window Weld to fill the gaps on my rear trailing arm bushings. They are rubber with large gaps front and rear. A company called AWR through a link at probetalk, sells new rear trailing arms with solid urethane bushings for about $130. That is where I got the idea to do it on the cheap. It helps reduce rear suspension movement.
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