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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
RE3 vs F2T vs FE3/F2T

My Main reason for considering all of these options is I now have quite a lump sum put away and I'm off work due to injury (full pay tho!). I am now trying to decide whether to spend money on the stock F2T - or look at conversions - I just want a higher redline...esp with the F2T's first gear - it expires way to soon. The car is street driven - all be it short distances. Its mainly used for weekend exploits in the mountains, and again, this is one reason I don;t like the F2T's low reving abilities - you always seem to be on the verge of needing to gear shift...a big drop from my old Mazda 92 Familiar GTR.

Are the FE3 injectors rated to the same capacity as F2T units?
Would the F2T injectors be suitabe for a boosted FE3 or boosted FE3/F2T Combo?
What mods are required to the F2T dizzy for use on the FE3?
Am i better to retain the FE3 dizzy?
With an aftermarket computer I can use crank angle sensor - is this a better option, or optical pickup? Any other suggestions here?
Here in Australia the FE3 w/ engine, drive shafts, computer (i.e. Half Cut) is available for around $1800 - is there any distinct differances between the FE3 and F2T hardware - i.e. gearbox ratios? drive shaft thickness/length, strength?
Whats the CR of a stock FE3? and what would the resulting CR be on the FE3/F2T combo?
Which parts from an FE3 are required for the FE3/F2T Combo? for example - rods, crank, pistons, oil lines etc
What size turbo would be suitable for a FE3?
Is there any differance between the FE3 and F2T's wiring looms?
Vics Manifold - is this suitable for turbo use?
Is it controled via vaccum actuator?
Could this be changed to a wastegate actuator so as to alter the runner lenght via boost?
Whats the safe redline of the FE3?
Would this be similiar in a FE3/F2T combination?
What pistons are required for use in a FE3 to lower the CR?
What pistons would be necassary in the combination engine to achieve a suitable CR for boost?
Would a 1.8Lt Familiar GTR engine fit our cars as these are a similiar price to the FE3 here in Australia?
What ET's are achievable with the FE3?
What is power and torque output with the FE3 and at what boost?

Just so everyone knows, fabricating an exhaust manifold for the FE3 is no problem for me
Also, all questions regarding the FE3 are aimed at a turbo FE3 (I know they arn't turbo, its directerd to people who have completed this)
FE3/F2T - be this I mean the lower end of an FE3 with a F2T single cam head - as I'm lead to believe this willrev exceptionally well still
And I'm not mucking around with this - as I've said - I have to time and money on my hands, so no comments about time wasting
I'd also like to know what the most power anyone is putting out of a F2T?
Also whats the most boost anyone has run on a F2T?
And finally what preperations would everyone reccomend on which parts? (i.e. crack & straightness test, blueprint, ballance, porting and polishing)
 

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hhhmmm....gen 1 was avalible with B6 1.6 4 cylinder....which is also used in Familia....in the same engine bay fits PB the 1.8 Turbo out of Familia AWD....hhhmm..... could make for very very usefull swap, same power but lighter closer to 50/50 ratio....great for imroving handeling
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
and while we are on the swap topic - anyone know if the front end of a probe could be swapped onto the front end of a mx? i.e. quarters, rad support, bonnet, pop up lights etc?

and this is really off the mark - and probably to hard but then again the parts are cheap in australia...
what about taking the rear suspension and diff from the fam and fitting that under the rear of a mx? similiar width...need to go and start measuring now....

AWD 1.8 Twin Cam Turbo Charged MX6 *drool*

thats for someone with too much money....too little sense....and too much time LOL
 

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Why would you want to put a F2T head on a FE3 bottom end??

The most amazing thing about that engine is its second exhaust valve! You'd gain a lot of power with the lessened back pressure from the turbo. The high revs will mean jack if you can't expell enough exhaust fast enough. You'll put a lot of stress on your enigne by doing that for sure!

There are two reasons why the F2T has a lower rev limit. 1) longer stroke, 2) 1 exhaust valve!

So cross that option out!
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
it was suggested to be by 2 differant sources that the FE3 valves have a similiar total surface are and so the f2t head would still be adequate... not doing anything till i ge more information tho..

what about a Mazda GTR engine? 1.8 turbo? better for weight distribution, lighter.... be nicer in the mountains ;o)
 

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even though the valves have the same surface area, the fe3 would have more volume. It's a 3 dimensional thing.

Secondly. I still believe that the second valve is helpful. I believe only one valve provides backpressure, which effectively increases heat and torque. The second valve will provide more hign-end HP with a cooler running piston.

I'm kinda doing this blindly, as I've never seen the engine in the flesh and that I have no clue as to what the exhaust valves timing and durations are. That will make a big difference.

The GTR 1.8L would be awesome (i think 210hp?). But I've heard that it can't be rebuilt. At least without serious care. The block started as a 1.6L and was overbored to 1.8. So the cylinders do not have make room left to bore out.

But in the mountains (I'm assuming going up hill) wouldn't you want more weight on the front wheels for more traction? Unless of course you have a AWD car, it wouldn't matter much.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
lighter with the higher redline of the 1.8L would aid acceleration..as you said tho, grip could be a problem. hmmm so many questions and so few answers! come on people - thoughts / ideas / experience would be helpful!
 

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I have heard that having 2 small sized exhaust valves, with the same combined area as the original one, will also increase the velocity of the exhaust gases, allowing the turbo to spool up early. This is just something i have heard though
 
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