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3,055 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So you want to build and FE-DOHC for turbo? Ihave had some question my engine and too make it easier to find information this thread is basicly a sumariy of all I had done.
Here is what I did and had done.

With my engine since I had blown the engine I decided to do a rebuild and started with the head.
The first things done were:
VR6 valve springs p/n: 021-109-623-P
(Order 16 outer valve springs) $160

ARP head studs p/n (washer and stud) $140

Kia intake keepers for exhaust side (order 16) also know as exhaust cotters $60

1mm oversized valves from REV $300

I also replaced the cam seals and used a Kia head gasket. I had the head torque to 90lbs.

I had my head decked and had a 5 angle valve job done as well. When having the vr6 valve springs installed make sure to reuse the stock FE-DOHC inner springs. I didn’t and it hasn’t hurt me yet a reliable source says I’ll be ok.

The bottom end was built up as well.

8:5:1 comp forged with chrome moly rings.
Here is what I got for $441.43
I used the order from Triple Threat to order them. Use order number: 125669
4 Mazda 2. pistons 3.406
4 pin fit
4 pin oilers
4 4340-866 .866 x 2.500 pins
4 2550 top compression 1/16 chrome under
4 2800 2nd wiper ring 1/16 ci inder 4"
4 2902 oil rings 5/32 4mm std.

I also used Clevite 77 bearings for the mains and rods with new seals for everything.

Since the stock rods can handle 500hp I opted to have them miked and reused them.
Only use a new oil pump on the fe-dohc. I got one from napa for $85 and took out the oil shim from the original oil pump and had it put into the new oil pump help get more pressure from it.
The block was cleaned and bored .20 over. A new timing belt and water pump and the engine is just like new. I had the machine shop weld in a 10an fitting for turbo drain line. I had the whole assemby balanced and blueprinted.

This setup is going to be good for 400hp or more depending on boost levels and what turbo you use. If I was building for n/a the only thing I would do different is put higher comp pistons in. IE 10:1 or 11:1.

probetalk link

157 Posts
That should help me some :cool: about to start on the head work and hope to have the engine done in a year or more :p

EDIT Could you clarify the arp #'s? and where you bought them? I found part # 300-8307 but it is listed as only 5.69ea.


3,800 Posts
anyone know the parts number for the kia keepers?

Premium Member
2,003 Posts
At best, you'll get a stock pump with a rubber stamped red "HV" on it's side. Or you could get a rebuilt OEM junker instead
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