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so did you end up getting yourself one?

And if you did, is it the genuine article ZE?
 

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Just jap is always genuine. The warranty covers, if you find out it is DE pistons or cams, replacement as well. I got that assurance from the guy because he didnt want me to pull apart an engine that I hadnt bought yet. Mine is 100% legit. THis isnt some chinese internet company :).
 

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thats awesome, i shall have to do some ringing around once things calm down a lil, and i get confirmation it is my valve seals on the way out :)
 

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thats awesome, i shall have to do some ringing around once things calm down a lil, and i get confirmation it is my valve seals on the way out :)
Ah you serious. I was just about to say you are heaps happy for someone who is about to lose an engine, but realised that you have a DE not a ZE. I get you Perth boys mixed up sometimes :).
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Hey guys; they aren't sure that it's a ZE motor now :S

has japanese writting on it :p and intake manifold is different... but yeah; they aint sure now.
 

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Hmm weird. At least unlike the American shit companies they tell you they think it might not be the real deal, while those cunts sell it to you knowing it isnt.
 

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ask them to take some pics, then post them up here, we will tell ya what it is :)
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Seemingly they wanna up the price for these engines in future... not happy bout that...

If anybody wants one, just talk to a paul there, and tell him that you're a friend of george who he quoted what i said above for the engine ;) maybe then they won't?

There's some mechanic there too offering to do fully swap inc. oil and coolant and such for a little over $600 too.
 

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$600 for a swap including fluids is very very very very good. I got quoted $1000 etc for the swap from some places. I got it done for $500 and that was major mates rates with my mates boss.

Sux that they want to up the price, maybe all these people im telling, the demand went up or something?? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Yeah. Demand mighta gone up and all; but end of the day; they're making a profit sellin the engine for the amount it's at already. They just getting greedy probly.
 

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Best way to quickly tell is by the Inlet manifold (IM)…. make sure it’s not the EUNOS 800 (curved neck and all together rounder looking); It can be a problem fitting in the MX6.

The ZE IM has a longer straighter neck to the TB. (not curved forward at 45 degrees like the KLDE). And has a “hump” going North West in the centre at the back.
I’m sure we can dig you up some pictures if you don’t know what they look like..

But be wary as the KFZE has the same looking inlet manifold so make sure you check the following
The throttle body Should read KL31
The heads, One should read KL31-101 and the other KL31-1A1
The CAMS: Should read KL-31
The PISTONS should be flat (not concave) kinda hard to spot this one but if you pull a spark plug and shine a light down in there to see the top of the piston. But if the others are correct chances are this will be to.

good luck mate...


Oh and see if you can scam a Kl31 ecu and JE50 vaf

Cheers..
 

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I found a chart of the KL engines, it was made pretty early, so I was interested to know if you think it is essentially accurate. Particularly, the power listings for the 2nd KLEZ and the 3rd KLDE, and the missing ECU information.
Also, there is no p/n for the 2nd KLEZ and the 3rd KLDE "Air Meters." Oh, and do the Head Codes look right?
https://web.archive.org/web/20091022173751/http://geocities.com/viv95pgt/klze.html Since I have an MX-3, I am inclined to go with either the 2nd KLZE or the 3rd KLDE for the curved neck IM's, if I can get the vendors to cough up the real Head Code figures on their engines. The genuine KLZE's are getting hard to locate. Also, is it easy to see if the pistons are dished or flat by looking in a spark plug hole, or sticking in a straw or something? Thank you.
 
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