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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know im on holiday in Italy and all that, but im still tinkin about the shitter 1g mx6 “project” I have waiting at home for me…
I’m sure it has an air leek some place after the turbo, so im going to swap out every thing to nice shiny aftermarket piping and a decent sized cooler
The turbo appears to be good no shaft play all be it stock. but....
But being that I don’t know a hell of a lot about the 1g,

What size pipeing should I use ?
Couplings and shit?
Pod filter or try to keep the stock box with K&N?
What cooler should I use?
I will be fitting an external BOV so any advice on location and type would also be fantastic…

Thanks bruvarz…
 

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woah woah woah

project?

i thought this was going to be a daily driver shitter ?
 

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your in Italy and you are thinking about your 1st gen, forget about it mate it will be there when you get back and focus on Italian women ;)
 

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woah woah woah

project?

i thought this was going to be a daily driver [shizzle]ter ?
its how it always turns out :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well im ere visiting my Italian woman and she is running me ragged.. i need a break lol
well fizzy its more of a repair....kinda... it has a fault so may as well upgrade to fix it.. even if it is just one leaky connection..lol
but yea externally it will be a shitter, but you know me..
so no first genners with any sizes for me?
 

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Fizzy? that was jmoore man, all that playtime is wrecking your mind :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well comon you ozy tunrz... what s otimum for the f2t......im not crackn into the motor....
yes yes i knoe fe3... but no..im stayin stock........give me the intake sise for optimum performance on the f2t....
 

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If your leaving the stock ECU

best bet is to feed it cold air direct- so open pods are a no no for hoping the timming stays up.

Ideal stock setup would be. remount the AFM lower and behind a pod down below the batter or similar or some other aire you can feed it heaps of cold ai.

then replace just the pipe work out of the turbo to the top of the intercooler. And wrapped the return in some insulation.

you can always leave the stock box K&N and cold feed it.

stock piping is 45mm and best advice is the main flex hose between the turbo and intercooler just the first bend should remain a flex pipe. other then that. it's pretty standard.

no real major gains to be made other then feeding the box more cold air/ or more air.
 

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Fizzy? that was jmoore man, all that playtime is wrecking your mind :p
like id understand if he got me and weeman mixed up cause we are both small, but to get you and me confused is beyond me.

pk get a hood scoop, it would fit so well with the rest of the mods on the car
 

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Its easy J, we are both madcore, its easy to get the owners of the 2 hottest 626 hatchs confused :) :p
 

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If you must upgrade your piping I would use 2" and nothing larger than 2-1/4"

If you are going to get your ECU Woo's moddded then you can relocate your VAF to before the throttle.

Coupler sizes required for this are;

Throttle 3-1/4" idealy but 3-1/2" will work
Vaf Outlet 3" or 3-1/4" both will work fine
Vaf Inlet 3" if it's fitted with an adapter

Stock Turbo Outlet 1-2/3" but 1-1/2" should fit and will be easier to find
Stock turbo Inlet 1-7/8" but 1-3/4" will fit.


So the couplers and pipes required should go somthing like this;

Air Filter to Turbo
a 3"-2" reducing coupler at the filter end, Or a 3"-2" 45deg bending reducing coupler,
Depending on which of the 2 above you went for then its at least 1 45deg pipe bend to the turbo inlet,
And then a 2"-1.75" reducing coupler at the turbo.

Turbo to IC
1-3/4" 90deg bend coupler at the turbo outlet,
Then assuming that you are going for a decent size IC like a 450x300x76 its a 45deg pipe bend and a 90deg pipe bend to get to under the drivers side headlight,
Then a 90deg bend reducing coupler going from 2" upto whatever size inlet is on your IC.

IC to VAF
Another 90deg bend reducing coupler the same as the IC inlet,
From there you need 2 45deg pipe bends and 1 3"-2" reducing coupler, or 1 45deg pipe bend and 1 3"-2" 45deg bend reducing coupler, to get to the relocated VAF

VAF to Throttle
A 3-1/4" 45deg bend coupler, or a 3-1/2"-3" 45deg bend reducing coupler which ever you can find.

If you don't have access to someone to tig or braze the alloy pipes together you can just use 2" couplers.


The best place to go in Perth IMO for silicone bends is Turbotech on Great Eastern HWY.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
mte that is a fricken awesome answer thanks...
ill try to get some bits and bobs via fleabay so i can play with it when i get home...
i would like the woo chip but i don't think big baz is overly happy with me..last time w spoke it didnt end well (from memory i think i called him a megalomaniac, with a god complex lol)
 

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You'd have to be very lucky to find most of those couplers on Ebay. I find the range on Ebay very limited.
Now that J-shop is gone Turbotech is your best bet and the prices are very reasonable.
I just last week picked up the 3-1/2" - 3" 45deg bend reducing coupler there for $28.


On the topic of Baz I've found him to be great to deal with. What was the fuss whith him about?

Just open a new e-mail address account and send him a request.
By the time you get around to giving your details I'm sure he won't care.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
lol na some of the older members will remember...dont you think it s strange you wont find any "posts" from woo on the forum.. in fact the MX6 name he uses now was my user name...
its all good i know i was as much to blame if not more than him.. it was just an ego clash i think...we wher mods and he deleated 1/2 the oz forum..
coz....i dont remember why but some sort of "second genner" pissed him off(not me)
funny now we dont have the first gen second gen rivalry we used to...shit ive had as many first gens i think as second....
surfise to say i still dont think i was the problem in that deparment... but yea anciant history....
 
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