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This is everything you are going to need to replace your fuel injectors.

1. 12 mm socket and ratchet
2. socket extension, one small, one very long one
3. 12mm wrench
4. 10mm socket
5. intake plenum gasket Mazda part # F28513135
6. long and short pry bars (you can pick up a set of four for $4.99 at sears this week!!!)


This whole procedure takes about 1-2 hours. It's very, very easy to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
your first step is to relieve the car of its fuel pressure.
To relieve fuel pressure, choose one of the methods below. turn the car on, and then disconnect either the fuel pump by the power connector to it, or by the fuse. shortly after the car will sputter and die. you have now relieved your car of fuel pressure!


to do this, you have to disconnect your fuel pump, like I did, or there is another method, accomplished by disconnecting a fuse under the dash board.

Under the seat method:
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Your next step is to remove your battery. This is done so you do not accidentally ignite any fuel that is going to spill from the fuel rail.

why risk your life when something that only takes a few minutes will more than likely save it, eh?

Once you remove the battery, then remove the boots/plug ups from the injectors. If you have an older model car like mine, there will be a little metal wire that you have to remove, then you can slide the harness up and off the injector.

If you have a newer car, you will just have to push on a little clip to remove the boot/harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Once you have relieved the fuel system of its pressure, its time to begin removing the intake plenum.

this is done by removing seven bolts holding the intake plenum to the feeder tubes, that provide air to your cylinders for the fuel to mix with.

bolt #1 is located beneath the bracket you see pictured. it lays parallell to the intake plenum.

bolt #7 is right there behind the valve cover.

Bolt #8 is attached to that same little metal bar that #7 is, only its located beneath the throttle body. I found it easiest to get at it from under the car, with a very long extension for the ratchet.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Once you remove the 7-8 bolts holding the intake plenum down, you then need to remove the plenum from the feeder tubes. this is going to be a bit of a struggle, or at least it was for me, and on the cars i worked on in the scrapyard.

use the valve cover as a fulcrum, and use a long pry bar to try to work the plenum in a upward fashion. You may also want to use a rubber mallet to "encourage" the intake plenum to move a bit.

remember to work it from both ends of the intake plenum.

DO NOT PUT PRESSURE ON THE FUEL RAIL, OR USE THE FUEL RAIL TO HELP REMOVE THE INTAKE PLENUM!!!

also, you do not need to fully remove the intake plenum. Just get it high enough so that you can slip on the new gasket over the two studs on the back of the plenum.

this should give you plenty of room to remove the injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Now that you have room, you then need to remove the fuel rail.

this is done by removing two bolts from either end of it, with a 12 mm wrench. It'll take a little bit, but patience is virtue, grasshopper.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Now that you have removed the two bolts holding down the fuel rail, your next step is to remove the fuel injectors from the rail and the feeder tubes. just lift the fuel rail away from the tops of the injectors, as the arrows labeled 1 indicate.

Warning!!! Gas will spill out of the fuel rail when you do this!!!

As you are doing this, becareful, because there are spacers where the bolts were that will fall when you lift the fuel rail.

The spacers are pointed out by arrow #2. there is one on each side of the fuel rail where the bolt was that held the fuel rail down.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Now that you have the fuel rail removed from the top of the injectors, you just have to gently take them out of the feeder tubes!

and thats it!

Now that you have your fuel injectors removed, you just have to install the one's you want, and reverse the above procedure :)

The ford probe shop manual suggests to apply engine oil to the injector o-rings, for a good seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Some notes for reinstallation:

the intake plenum bolts and nuts are torqued to 14-19 ft-lbs.

Fuel rail bolts are also torqued to 14-19 ft-lbs.

Below are pages taken from the ford probe shop manual, 1989.

same procedure, just with better pictures ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Page 2.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Good luck, and be safe guys ;)

-meaty
 
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