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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just read on PT that the KL03 will go a VERY VERY LONG TIME. ok then, i have 167000+ on mine rightnow. i am looking at doing a little mech. work to make sure it takes me the distance ( another 3 years).

ok then, i know i need to change my intake manifold gasket and the vavle cover gaskets. what material should i get? where can i buy them from and how much are they. me and my buddy(Woodnutz) can do this our self so, there will be no labor cost. plus i know about the spacer, do they go along with the gasket or what? i think i might get those to keep the air cooler, that will help too.

i read about an engine flush? what is the deal with that, how can that help and how is that done.

plus i read about a DeCarb procedure, how is this done and should this be done? how can this help?

also, is there ANYTHING ELSE AT ALL, i should look into doing to make sure it keeps going, beside the normal oil change and the gasket change.

also, i have been using Valeline oil, (normal oil), 10w30. would it be ok to change over to Syn. with the amount of miles on the car. will that hurt it at all or help. i have read all the stuff about Mobil One so i know that is what most of you use.

also well the intake manifold is off, should i try to clean it out as most as i can at the time? and is there anything i can do to the heads while i have them in the open?

any help will be thanked sorry for the long thread.
 

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jdmxsix said:
ok then, i know i need to change my intake manifold gasket and the vavle cover gaskets. what material should i get? where can i buy them from and how much are they.
Get your gaskets from a Mazda dealer. The valve cover gaskets are molded rubber pieces made to fit precisely into the groove in the covers. Cost is not prohibitive.

me and my buddy(Woodnutz) can do this our self so, there will be no labor cost. plus i know about the spacer, do they go along with the gasket or what? i think i might get those to keep the air cooler, that will help too.
Search mx6.com or probetalk.com and find Sean Morgan's web site address. He has all the details of the phenolic spacers for the KL03 there.

i read about an engine flush? what is the deal with that, how can that help and how is that done.
I wouldn't do it. An engine flush is designed to loosen crud, dissolve varnish and gunk build-up so it can be drained out, leaving the inside of the engine sparkling clean. The problem is, if there's build up crusts of sludge or other goop in the motor, I think the last thing you want to do is loosen it so it can come free and possibly get pulled into the oil pump pickup where it may cause who-knows-what havoc. My philosophy as far as flushes go: "Let sleeping dogs lie."

If you've got sticking rings or varnished HLAs, I doubt this procedure will help much anyway.

plus i read about a DeCarb procedure, how is this done and should this be done? how can this help?
A solvent is ingested by the engine through a vacuum port. The engine is run with this solvent to the point where it basically stalls, meaning the plugs are so wet and fouled with the stuff, the engine can't run anymore. The engine is allowed to sit for 10 or 15 minutes and then it is re-started (possibly with a fair amount of difficulty) and the engine is run to clean out the spooge.

The solvent, having coated the combustion chamber, softens and loosens built-up carbon from the combustion chamber surfaces and piston crown. When the motor is restarted, the loosened carbon is blown out the exhaust.

On 1993 cars, this maintance might be needed periodically to stave off carbon-knock (where the build-up is so thick the stuff on the piston actually touches stuff on the head each crank rotation, causing a knock-like sound). I wouldn't really bother on other years. Remember...any built-up carbon that gets blown out the exhaust valves will likely get trapped in the catalytic. Keep the engine running well (maintenance issues like filters, plugs, wires, O2 sensors etc) and carbon really shouldn't build-up in the first place.

also, is there ANYTHING ELSE AT ALL, i should look into doing to make sure it keeps going, beside the normal oil change and the gasket change.

also, i have been using Valeline oil, (normal oil), 10w30. would it be ok to change over to Syn. with the amount of miles on the car. will that hurt it at all or help. i have read all the stuff about Mobil One so i know that is what most of you use.
The only thing going to synthetic might do is cause the oil seals to swell or shrink slightly, which might lead to a small oil leak or even oil consumption through valve stem seal leakage. It's not likely, but I've heard of it happening to older cars.

M1 is a far superior oil to most of the dino-blends out there. The KL-series HLAs seem to like it best. {i]Should[/i] you switch? I don't know...your existing oil is probably fine. Just keep it fresh (change every 3000-5000 miles or so) and always change the filter too.

also well the intake manifold is off, should i try to clean it out as most as i can at the time? and is there anything i can do to the heads while i have them in the open?
Try to clean the worst of the spooge out but beware of loosening larger chunks of crud; you don't want them coming loose and entering the combustion chamber or hanging up a valve. Stuff that you loosen in there probably wouldn't cause any lasting damage to the engine, but it;d be good to keep it out just the same.
 

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Mike had some good advice. Thanks Mike, it was informative.

I will comment on using Mobile 1. That is some good stuff. And you've probably noticed how expensive it is (I think the cheapest I've found was just few cents below $5/quart-US currency, at Sam's). I used it in my other MX6, and to be honest, I didn't notice a huge difference at the time, but thinking about it, it may have helped-who knows. Anyway, I recently got the oil changed in mine, they put in Vavoline 10-30, not my 1st choice for oil, but it is acceptable.

The cost of Mobile 1 discourages me, and also, a gear head friend of mine explained to me that since Mobile 1 is such a darn good lubricator, in an OLDER engine, it is possible to actually loose power, from losing friction between the piston rings and the cylinder walls-thus losing compression. In my '90, I actually began to use a little oil, my friend said that is normal with a synthetic oil in an older engine.

My main soap box about oil, is definetly use the multi-vescosity oils. The reason? So much more funding has gone into studying them and their effects, and so on. A lot of engineering spent on them, whereas a straight weight, not too much goes into that. Not to mention, I think you need mult-vescosity anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks man, i will keep that in mind, anybody, help is wanted. plus go check out my post in the Performance Sec. about the HKS exhaust. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
How about oil filters, i just got done reading about them form this web page i found. which should i get if i dont use the mazda one. thanks. and do they make a M1 oil that isnot SYN. just asking
 

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as far as filters go, i was told to use ONLY Mobil1 or OEM mazda. others like fram etc clog up too easy resulting on poorer flow thru our oh-so-sensitive HLAs. and i personally use redline oil. 5w30. i noticed the HLA noise diminish a great deal in the "almost time for oil change" miles. and i use Mazda filters. my car has 91k on it.

aside from that and what Mike said, just check out all the gaskets and do a tune up. when u take off the manifold, that'll tell ya how dirty the inside of the motor is based on how the heads look. i would judge then wether or not to do a decarb or flush. and just keep doin what u been doin. it got u the first 167k :)


on the same topic, anybody used ZMAX???? the stuff looks good, but i wanna know experiences. especially with the KL03.


Mike? what do you know bout the stuff?
 

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BLUMX6 said:
on the same topic, anybody used ZMAX???? the stuff looks good, but i wanna know experiences. especially with the KL03.


Mike? what do you know bout the stuff?
IMVHO, snake oil.

Again, as with any product of its ilk, ask yourself: "If this stuff worked to reduce friction and was as generally beneficial as the makers claim it to be, don't you think Exxon, Shell, Elf, Agip and all the other oil companies would be falling all over themselves to make equivalent products?"

I wouldn't put it into my KL. It probably won't hurt anything but I'd rather use the money toward a spare bottle of Mobil 1.
 

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cool. thanx mike. i'm actually gonna do a separate post on here and pt to see if anyone had nice results from it on a KL.

thanx
L8Rs
Nick
BLUMX6
 
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