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Discussion Starter #1
Yes sir, genuine Jay B upgrade. Plugged it in and relocated my boost control solenoid for easy access. Now all I need is a boost gauge. Well, that and upgraded pump, injectors, and turbo. But, I'll settle for the boost gauge for right now. I can't tell if it's any faster or not, but, I'll race someone A.S.A.P. and let you know.
 

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Be aware that we thing there is (may be) a slight problem with Jays chips and the EGR. You may notice some hessitation at crusing speeds once the chip goes it. This happens any time to the computer opens the EGR. Let us know if you have it. To test drive at say 45mph at a constand speed. See if you notice the care hesitates. Next disconnect the EGR and try it again (yes, the CEL light will come on, so reset your computer after) see if it happens, or happens at all. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I was cruising around a little tonight on the way home from a friend's house, and didn't notice any hesitation at all. This was about 60 mph.
I'll try to be more active in noticing it though.
This kind of bothers me, I've heard that Jay B's upgrades are among the best?
Is this not true?
I got a great deal, $130, so, I won't be upset even with a little hesitation, but, I'd still be a little upset. Probably at myself for not doing more research first.
 

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Don't let it bother you, this also happenes with my car and the EL Prototypes chip. Some people don't even notice it (but many times when I drive chipped first gens it is there) and others already had blocked off their EGR so it was never a concern to begin with. Never tried the superchips in my car yet, but it would be an interesting test.

Try the test and see if you feel a difference. Remember the EGR only functions when:

1) When the car is warmed up
2) When traveling at a constant speed above 35mph
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This guy was selling it out of a wrecked car. His name is Ali, not sure of his name on the boards, if any. Umm, I've also noticed a drop in power? Maybe I'm just imagining things, but, I cranked the boost up a little more, and it seems like it lost power instead of gained. I'm a little pissed off, I expected to feel it right away. Anyone have any suggestions?
Could THIS be that hesitation you're talking about?
It runs smoothly, but, it just doesn't seem to have the same amount of grunt as before.
 

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My car had so many mods already that I really didn't feel much new power, but I was able to see the boost cut has been elminated.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I guess that's what it'll be. Oh well, WRX turbo here I come...
Well, if I could afford it anyway.
 

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I already took one out for a test drive; other than the engine and drivetrain the rest of the car sucks. The looks are so so at best; the interior really sucks, my MX6 from 88 blows it away. The seats are quite poor and adjustments bleak. No 2 door, no sunroof, I will stick with my 6 thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh nonononononononono!
You have me all wrong!
I meant the WRX turbo upgrade that Raw Power offers.
I like the new Subarus, but, there's no way I could afford one. And although she's a cranky bitch, I love my MX-6 too much to sell her!
 

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I tried an EL prototypes chip on my car, and with no changes in boost setting, I'm fairly sure I felt more power. I'll tell you one thing. The car seemed to wind out the gears much smoother, with that high-rpm drop off not being so sudden.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, I feel like I'm getting LESS power. Someone suggested that maybe my knock sensor is the culprit. I don't know though, I'm running 92 or 93 octane, whatever our super unleaded is here.
It's pissing me off though. I relocated the stock boost control solenoid, so the hoses are quite a bit longer. Any idea if this could be a problem?
 

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dude... just try rigging the BCS to have a constant signal of 12-volts (just for a test) and if the car runs differently, then its the knizzock Sizzensor... (hahaaha)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I was thinking about something along those lines, I wondered how it would work.
Would it be possible for the engine to run if I disconnect the knock sensor? I'm fairly certain I'd be able to tell if there was any actual knock or not.
Okay, can anyone explain to me exactly how the boost control solenoid works?
 

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If you disconnect the knock sensor, you'll get a check engine light. As far as what else will happen, I dont know. Anyway. The BCS is essentially a computer controlled wastegate bleed. If the ECU detects knock, it shuts off the bleed only allowing the wastegate defined 6psi. IF all is good, it'll bleed a little allowing as much as 9psi. Just bypass that shit and get a nice Dawes boost controller. And do yourself a BIG favor. Get a boost guage. Now that you have no fuel cut, you dont want to be screwing around blindly. THey're only $40 and will save you lots of headaches/guesswork.

Oh and about the chip. I've decided not to go with a chip as part of my turbo upgrade. Instead, I'm installing a rising rate fuel pressure regualator (http://www.cartech.net/fmu2020.html and i'm having it anodized red!! :)). After speaking personally to Corky Bell, he said that he dosent see the extra benefit a $300 chip would provide if I'm using the FMU. I believe him :) I'm going to use an alternate method of eliminating the fuel cut, which I'll post how in detail once I do it successfully.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes, a boost gauge is definitely in the works. Just a little strapped for cash.
I wouldn't have gotten a chip if it cost more than $150, I got a great deal on it. Umm, how will the fuel pressure riser help you if the ECU cuts the fuel at 12 psi?
Oh wait, I just read the rest. Well, I'm certainly interested in how you're gonna defeat the fuel cut. I've seen someone put a nail in their VAFM to keep the flap from opening all the way. I hope it's not gonna be anything like that.


Also, I tried what Mazda-Head said, and just applied 12v to the boost control solenoid. BAM! There was all my power back!
I'm gonna rig a switch that leaves it stock from the knock sensor when I'm just driving around normally, and when I flip it, it's 12v constant to the BCS, which will operate like a bleed valve. This is temporary, when I get the boost gauge, I'll have a nice bleeder as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Tell me Anarchy! Tell me tell me tell me tell me!
:D
I wanna know.
 

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OK! OK! :) Basically, it involves modifying the VAF. Supposedly there's an electrical contact in there that the computer uses for the boost cut. If you eliminate this contact, no more boost cut. That's as far as I know. Raw Power's the one who told me about it, and he has it done that way on his car. He said he's using the stock ECU, and he has that monster WRX turbo and he dosent get boost cut. So I gotta get in touch with him to get detailed directions on how to do this. When I do, I'll take many pictures showing how it's done.
 
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