[parisifal]

That is simply loading the front end of your car allowing the rear to lighten. And since you are already turning, causing the momentum to work your rear wheels around and inducing a small slide.

In other words...a Ghetto-drift...hehe

In a FWD car it is just a small slide, if it was a RWD, as you are sliding, you can correct by apply alot of throttle, creating a get this...Power Slide. And if you can hold that slide for more than a few feet it becomes a drift.

You can also cause the same affect without going at the corner hard. Simply approach at any normal speed. Than suddenly tap the break in conjuction with pulling the e-brake and you will also induce a slide. Make sure your in second gear and power out of it, works especially good in the rain

 

[Guest]

That was a good article parisfal. Thanks for taking the time to write it.

I think that there are a couple of things that I take exception with for beggners:

I agree that braking late and hard is important for experienced racers, however, itis more important that a begginer learn the line and optimize his EXIT SPEED, if he wants to acheive faster lap times.

To quote a NASA instructor "Braking late offers the least payoff in time, and the greatest chance for disaster"


Brake early at first, concentrate on your entry speed. Take notice of how fast you are going when you reach the corner exit. Keep entering that turn faster until your exit speed is less(from scrubbing speed off with steering) This should be your optimum speed. Only then should start moving your brake point closer in.

if you brake half a second later you may gain a hundreth of a second. But if you exit a corner 1mph faster than you competition into a straight, you will carry that 1mph all the way to the next turn, earing you .5 to a whole second over him.

Second, I would say never use the hand brake, even in an emergency. If you have lost control of your vehicle , it is dangerous to perfrom and "flips" to try to avoid other cars. They will not expect it. I was involved in a wreck because an integra tried just this manuver, and was broadsided by a datsun race car trying to get through. At 100+ mph, you should just be trying to get out alive, not save your car or do fancy stuff. The best thing you can do if you are spinning is CENTER THE WHEEL and LOCK UP THE TIRES. doing anything else(countersteering to save a hopeless spin, e-braking, hitting the gas) will make your trajectory wild and unpredictable to drivers behind you, and earn you a collision. better to hit a wall of tires and spend money on body work than getting hit and paying for hospital fees and a whole new car.

 

[Brandon696]

this whole thread has been very imformative!i remember reading that post (parsifal) a while back , i printed it out and treated it like a bible. that was a while back. was wondering if maybe you had time you could do a writeup for more experts? if its a burden to, id be very much will to pay a little bit.... cuz that lst post was pretty imformative, and helped me just a bit, but ive moved on to mor 'evasive' techniques. ive mastered the most basic of manuevers, the bootleg, a good bif of 'drifting', even the j-turn came rather easily to me. just for fun, heres a video of some FWD traysliding, gotta get me a pair of em! pretty sweet video.


Brandon:muhaha:

 

[parisifal]

I haven't had much time to do anyother write up.

Betwen school, job and my business i get pretty tied up. But I will start an intermediate/expert FAQ sometimes in a month or so. I'm going to get on a track for a few days and start writing all the stuff down. Been looking at the local SCCA for some more advice but they tend to practice far off. I will need alot more help to write the next level guide since I myself do not consider me an expert in any form of motorsport.

If anyone can help ,send me all your little tidbit and such so i can compile them all together in hope of creating an advance guide to road racing.

 

[AutoX47]

Thanks for the article.

I've raced rear wheel (s10 and rx7) before, never fwd. The bits about hand breaking will help me out.

thanks

 

[Urethane]

Great stuff but I think you left out a major part in the 1G MX6 suspension that needs addressed: The 13 year old bushings. IF you can find them, replace everything rubber in the control arms and sway bars with poly and you'll be sittin pretty through the turns. I noticed a HUGE difference in just replacing my swaybar endlinks.

~urethane

 

[Urethane]

Great stuff but I think you left out a major part in the 1G MX6 suspension that needs addressed: The 13 year old bushings. IF you can find them, replace everything rubber in the control arms and sway bars with poly and you'll be sittin pretty through the turns. I noticed a HUGE difference in just replacing my swaybar endlinks.

~urethane

 

[tenthton]

interest in a road racing thread?

hey y'all,

been floating around the board, haven't had too much a need to write in yet, but now need some advice and maybe share some of my info.

been taking my 6 (see sig, it's pretty stocky still yet) to some driver's events, all up at Watkins Glen (upstate NY) so far.

turned some good times comparatively, esp. in my last coupla sessions there. BUT THEN, i let my instructors drive the 6 and they unleashed this holy fury of 6 on unknowing or unbelieving bimmer's and porsche's...funny...turns out 6's can hang with the best in the corners (include 911 gt2 & z06's in that bunch), KL03 just gets smoked on straights & up the hills.

anyway, i'm still looking to get a little more from the car and improve my skills, and looking for other 6ers who might've had similar experiences, esp re: track tires, pressures, brake pads, you know stuff that has to be dialed in ON track day.

going to be running the 6 for another season at least (saving up for my E36 M3!)

 

[Guest]

I've read that left foot braking is more useful in fwd than rwd. If you guys want more, check out "the secrets of solo racing" by Hank Watts.

 

[projectracing]

Drifting

Hey guys I'm new to this site but aint new to the racing world
especially drifting. The 6 is a very capable machine, and can hang with the best. You can basically drift with almost any car. You just have to adjust your self to the situation. and use different methods. ie: Power drifting, Brake drifting, EB drifting, Fient, There is another type but can recall the name. All used for different situations types of cars or combining them together. You have to adjust basically for oversteer or understeer, or weather. I learned from a friend who is a great driver in any situation. For further info on drifting techniques, look up the Drift Bible DVD on ebay by the drift king. Great info from that dvd on how to drift. Just thought I would put some info out for peeps.

 

[fasturbo626]

parisifal, did you rip all this info off the gt3 game manual?

 

[Guest]

I drove a '94 Legend and I could force it into a slide that would tighten the turn for me.
I've only been driving for a few months, being only 17 and all but I have confidence in my skill and I've driven a few different cars and could feel the difference. I can not wait until I get my own. Where can I find a track if I'm in north-ish New Jersey?

 

[parisifal]

Wow, I haven't updated this thread in forever.

fasturbo626 - not really, but I do admit testing some of the principles out in GT3 before I try it out in real life does help a bit, can't wait for GT4. Any of you should have that game, no it's not just a game, it's a simulator.

I have done alot more track time this year being in Europe and all, not to mention having a much more capable car than the 6 (which I still have and enjoy.)

I will put my experiences and tips on track driving, mainly focusing on preparation for your first time at a race track, since most help I've seen never focus on this vital area. I will also do a series of articles on different race tracks I've been to and how to prepare for each. I've done a few here in Europe which are great fun as well as being quite legendary. Once I return to the States early next year I will attempt a cross country track tour if finances and time allow. I know for sure I will be heading to Laguna Seca, Button Willow and Infineon when they have open track days. I am also considering Road America and a few other places, all will be highly dependent on finances but the first 3 will be top on my list.

Only problem now is to find my next track car, everything points to either an FC or Miata, there really isn't anything as cheap and as fun as those two cars. An S2000 or FD is also a choice, but I'd rather have a car I can tear up than one I have to baby.

 

[Trent]

can't go wrong with the miata. great weight distribution, and a decent power/weight ratio (especially the turbocharged models of course). Many of the best drivers in the Delta and CENLA SCCA regions near me win with Miatas.

 

[Phillip]

Under normal conditions I would start asking a lot of questions since this is about my biggest passion.... But some dudes were so f#$%^*g rude to me for fishing for info on racing and all about racing, so I'll just shut up now and see what kinds of info comes along that I can firstly understand and then use to expand the ultimate pleasure.....

:smokin:
By the way I do find everything here very interesting. Keep it up.........

 

[MissMouse]

I don't think you give the 6 enough credit. It has plenty of National Championships and trophies in STOCK form in stock class in the SCCA. (I ought to know, I won one the most recent of them) It's kinda like racing the 944. It leans a lot, but still sticks. The money from Mazda was nice though.

BTW, my Stock Class MX6 did a sustained 1.03 G with a peak of 1.10 at the Wendover Pro-Solo this year. I've raced plenty of other cars and actually think that the 6 is faster through sweepers and slower through transitions. (Damn those Mini's!)

"Drifting" or in the case of a FWD car "snap oversteer" is the slow way around a track. However, it is the fun way. }) Every time I do it I come off with a BIG grin.

Oh well, give the 6 some credit, there is a reason it has 5 National championships in SCCA Stock Class and the Probe has none. (And plenty of people have tried in the Probe)

 

[Ryan]

Oh well, give the 6 some credit, there is a reason it has 5 National championships in SCCA Stock Class and the Probe has none. (And plenty of people have tried in the Probe)

Wow, I had no idea...I guess that hatch is a lot flexier and changes weight distribution a lot more...or do Probers just not know how to drive})

Laters
Ryan

 

[Michael A.]

Miss Mouse: More details please....

How about more details of the setup of your car? Sounds like you have it very dialed in, and that info will help some of us out. I know, you don't want to
give out hard-earned setting info, but the general specs like your springs, shocks, etc. I always wondered why the MX-6 did so well in that class, but
now that I have one, I'd like to copy some of your ideas, while keeping it streetable.

Thanks!

 

[68firebird]

im probly did it wrong, but when i used to power slide i spun my front tires and locked up my back tires, cause when you first come into the corner, you do have a lot of pressure on the outside front wheel, and if youjust spin them you reliele pressure.

 

[Samol_hok]

DONT forget the art of double clutching while brake
(HEEL and TOE)
This is an essential to road racing so you dont destroy your cars clutch and transmission

1. ok 3rd gear your sitting at say 5000 rpm
2. Braking point varies upon the corner entry
3. ok now down shift.... your still braking ok no problem
4. now you really have to know your cars difference in torque ratios between gears
ok say your at 3000rpm 3rd ger you want to go to 2nd
ok slightly depress the clutch to put the tranny in nuetral. with your toe on brake rev the with the heal to your rpm of 2nd gear going at the speed you are traveling or 4000rpm (mine has a 1000 rpm difference between gears) ok depress the clutch and feel how easay it goes in

remember double clutching is about saving th elife of your transmission by matching the input speed the engine to the out put speed ...tranny)

you'll soon find if your get good at it you dont have to ride the clutch very long when your down shift and the car will down shift without and lugging or kicking