[Guest]

to for a wof and it failed jue to the wheel moving a little like there is play in the tie road end but it's not the tie road end or the ball join and have looked at it and it seams to becomeing from the stearing rack

can i just titen the nut on the stearing arm or would there be a joint or somthing thats lose or slopy and sudjestion on what to do

i have the exsaust done now and i have fixed the 4 wheel stearing it was the steaper motor not working

i also have the codes here if anybody wan't them for whats wrong for the amount of flashs on the stearing light

kedge

 

[antiSUV]

uh, me too

I have significant slop in my steering as well and I'm praying it's not the rack since I wouldn't wanna take chances with a used one and new ones are 1200.00 without labor. What I'm hoping my problem is, is the U-joint between the firewall and the rack. You should check yours out. I haven't got a chance to fiddle with mine since it's too cold out.

 

[magik8]

$1200 for a rack?! I paid $200 for mine (although my model is not a GT, so maybe that's it..) Go to http://carparts.com, and look up your model... I would be VERY surprised if it was $1200.

The steering racks do wear out in these cars, and in my case, one of the boots was shot on the steering rack, so dirt entered and destroyed the internals... check your rack boots to see if they're ok, first.

 

[magik8]

ok, so I went there for you.

The price at carparts.com for a remanufactured steering rack for your '89 GT is $214.46, with the $155 core charge... you should be able to find a unit at a local parts store for about that price, like I did with my car.

Good luck.

 

[antiSUV]

Hey thanks

I looked at Carparts before but didn't see it I guess. Thanks a lot. I bet that rack is hard to replace though. Has anyone ever done it? Manifest?

 

[magik8]

I did it last week in my '91 DX.

It wasn't exactly simple, but it wasn't terribly hard either... when you are putting the new rack in, you need 2 people to do so.. 1 to hold the rack from the bottom, and one to line it up and put the bolt in the U-joint.
Otherwise, it's pretty straightforward .. just taking the lines off the rack, popping off the tie rod ends, and installing the new rack, remembering to bleed the steering system afterwards by turning the wheel back and forth with the reservoir cap off.

Read this thread for some more info on my rack/pump project:

http://www.mx6.com/board/showthread.php3?threadid=1951

Here's a webpage on a ford probe GL owner who did it also:

http://www4.ncsu.edu/~bmjohns2/suspen.htm

Hope this helps.

[Edited by magik8 on 01-16-2001 at 10:57 PM]

 

[Guest]

all fixed

It was the joint on the end of the stearing rack wear the stearing arm comes of it so i got a new one and replaced it and the slop not there any more

just have a cheak pop the boot back and you can see the ball joint moving in out out of the socket and usally you can hear the grease in there making a sucktion noise.

kedge

 

[antiSUV]

Are you talking about the joint that goes into the rack from the steering column, or one of the tie rods? I don't quite understand. If it's the U-joint going into the rack from the column, then that makes me happy because it might mean I don't need a new rack.

 

[Guest]

no it not the ball joint or the tie road end but the other end of the stearing rod i think you call it the u joint but that all it was and i undid the locking tap unscrewed it got a new stearing rod put the old tie rod on and it was fixed

just get another stearing rod and see if it fixes it it's better that having to pull the whole rack out.

and if it's the rack will you put the new stearing rod on as well
kedge

 

[antiSUV]

I see

You replaced the inner tie-rod end then. I get it. The U-joint I'm talking about is the place where the input from the steering wheel goes into the rack. I hope it's what my problem is - I already had my tie-rods checked and one of them replaced a couple months ago.

 

[Guest]

yes it's the joint on the other end of the stearing arm ball and socket joint if you slide the boot back and have a look at the joint when wigling the wheel. and see if it moves in and out. you can also here the grease if it's lose.

o and the steper motor on the 4 wheel units is stufed totaly now so have to find another

kedge