Great tips. :tup:metros said:I used the RTV in addition. I want no reason to have to unbolt everything again so I'm taking every precaution for leaks. Plus it helps because you can stick the gasket on the head and then put the manifold over it without having to worry about lining them up.
Yeah I used both 6in extensions for the bolts that connect the y-pipe to the exhaust manifolds. This brought my breaker bar below the bottom of the car and gave me enough elbow room to get some good leverage on them. Also PB Blaster was my best friend in this job. I soaked everything before even attempting to take it off. I think you could get away with just removing the cooling fans instead of the whole radiator. The fans only have a few nuts to take off from what I remember on my i4. You could take of the IM to get at the rear but to be honest you only have to remove 2 nuts and 1 bolt from the top. The last bolt (all the way to the drivers side) can be removed from the bottom as well. Oh this is after the heat shields already off, which I really didn't have a problem with. I used a smaller socket wrench to get those off.Fastest95PGT said:Great tips. :tup:
Sometimes getting the stock downpipe can be quite difficult if it's never been removed before since these cars are getting so old. If you have access to an impact gun, I would recommend using it on all the larger exhaust studs (downpipe and flex-cat flange). If you don't have access to an impact gun, you could use a breaker bar. Since you're not re-installing them, it doesn't really matter if you break the studs with the breaker bar, but be aware this could happen (I usually have at least one break every time I pull apart a stock exhaust).
Also, just to make things easier. For the rear, removing the IM would make things easier by both providing more light as well as giving you access from the top if you feel it's necessary. This is far from required, but as I said, would help free up some room. For the front, removing the radiator will give you a lot more room to play with. Again, not required, but will make things much easier since the MX6 engine is pretty close to the radiator in the bay.
Absolutely...It's the old saying a 100 different carpenters will have 100 different ways to build something and all will claim theirs is the best way to do it.:ewink: Once I get around to uploading the pics and all that good stuff I'll post some how to's for future DIYers.Fastest95PGT said:Yeah, to each is own on how to do it.
I might sway from removing just the hella cool ing fans because on older radiators the studs could create more work than it's worth if they snap off.
As for removing the IM... it will give a lot more light down the back of the motor which is a great asset. But agian, far from required.
You didn't have to continue, or explain ...Fastest95PGT said:lol, I'm not going to continue this. My preference would be to have more natural light and no drop light in my way, but that's MY PREFERENCE.
And that is what I was trying to get at ...Fastest95PGT said:Guess I've gotten used to removing an IM so it's not hard fo rme anymore. :shrug:
Hahaha let it go man...Agiatrix was making the exact point of why I didn't do it. Yeah eventually I will learn how to remove and install it but right now it's not really necessary. I didn't want to make a long job even longer by trying to figure out the IM and everything that goes along with it.Figure that changing all those old vac lines out while you're in there doing the headers isn't a bad idea either... So removing the IM can come in handy afterall! :muhaha: