headers
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Hotshot - are supposedly the best
Pacesetters are supposedly what get you the most HP but have some known issues.
OBX and SS autochrome are Hotshot knockoffs
You can get Pacesetters OBX and SS Autochrome from Ebay
I did the install myself...
I hear it can cost $300 for install...
maybe more
maybe less...
expect a couple of hundred.
Pacesetters are supposedly what get you the most HP but have some known issues.
OBX and SS autochrome are Hotshot knockoffs
You can get Pacesetters OBX and SS Autochrome from Ebay
I did the install myself...
I hear it can cost $300 for install...
maybe more
maybe less...
expect a couple of hundred.
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Or you could install them yourself and save yourself all that cash. I just finished installing mine and it's definetly doable by the average DIY. It is timing consuming and hard work but it can be done. I may be doing a short write up in the following week so keep your eyes peeled. I went with the ss autochrome. But one that agiatrix left off is the MMI headers.
metros
metros
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I did the job with a swivel socket adapter, 1.5 cans of PB Blaster (Oh yeah I soaked everything to make it easier), 2 6inch socket extensions, 1 small socket extension, Adjustable wrench, LONG breaker bar (24incher, a must), Hi temp RTV gasket sealant...that's about all I can remember at the moment. Expect a write up with a few pictures in a week or two. Agiatrix and I both left the intake manifold and radiator in. Others will tell you to take them out.
metros
metros
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I used the RTV in addition. I want no reason to have to unbolt everything again so I'm taking every precaution for leaks. Plus it helps because you can stick the gasket on the head and then put the manifold over it without having to worry about lining them up.
metros
(edit) Also the headers I bought came with all the gaskets I needed.
metros
(edit) Also the headers I bought came with all the gaskets I needed.
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Great tips. :tup:metros said:
Sometimes getting the stock downpipe can be quite difficult if it's never been removed before since these cars are getting so old. If you have access to an impact gun, I would recommend using it on all the larger exhaust studs (downpipe and flex-cat flange). If you don't have access to an impact gun, you could use a breaker bar. Since you're not re-installing them, it doesn't really matter if you break the studs with the breaker bar, but be aware this could happen (I usually have at least one break every time I pull apart a stock exhaust).
Also, just to make things easier. For the rear, removing the IM would make things easier by both providing more light as well as giving you access from the top if you feel it's necessary. This is far from required, but as I said, would help free up some room. For the front, removing the radiator will give you a lot more room to play with. Again, not required, but will make things much easier since the MX6 engine is pretty close to the radiator in the bay.
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Yeah I used both 6in extensions for the bolts that connect the y-pipe to the exhaust manifolds. This brought my breaker bar below the bottom of the car and gave me enough elbow room to get some good leverage on them. Also PB Blaster was my best friend in this job. I soaked everything before even attempting to take it off. I think you could get away with just removing the cooling fans instead of the whole radiator. The fans only have a few nuts to take off from what I remember on my i4. You could take of the IM to get at the rear but to be honest you only have to remove 2 nuts and 1 bolt from the top. The last bolt (all the way to the drivers side) can be removed from the bottom as well. Oh this is after the heat shields already off, which I really didn't have a problem with. I used a smaller socket wrench to get those off.Fastest95PGT said:
metros
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Yeah, to each is own on how to do it.
I might sway from removing just the cooling fans because on older radiators the studs could create more work than it's worth if they snap off.
As for removing the IM... it will give a lot more light down the back of the motor which is a great asset. But agian, far from required.
I might sway from removing just the cooling fans because on older radiators the studs could create more work than it's worth if they snap off.
As for removing the IM... it will give a lot more light down the back of the motor which is a great asset. But agian, far from required.
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Absolutely...It's the old saying a 100 different carpenters will have 100 different ways to build something and all will claim theirs is the best way to do it.:ewink: Once I get around to uploading the pics and all that good stuff I'll post some how to's for future DIYers.Fastest95PGT said:
metros
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lol, I'm not going to continue this. My preference would be to have more natural light and no drop light in my way, but that's MY PREFERENCE.
Up to you to do your own job. Guess I've gotten used to removing an IM so it's not hard fo rme anymore. :shrug:
Up to you to do your own job. Guess I've gotten used to removing an IM so it's not hard fo rme anymore. :shrug:
You didn't have to continue, or explain ...Fastest95PGT said:
When I said I used a light to get more light, it wasn't to challenge you or shoot down your preference, but rather show whoever reads this, that are other ways to get light there...
I personally, have only removed an intake manifold off once off my PGT...
now, I never put it back on...so I don't even know how to fully remove & install
At this point, I am not confident enough to take it off and put it back on...
Think of a 'first timer'
Not only is he/she removing & installing the exhaust... with removing the IM, it then becomes - relieveing fuel pressure, removing bolts/not losing bolts, remembering to cover the ports in the head, remembering where all the vacuum lines are... then if he/she had leaky gaskets...may as well do that too right?... then putting on a new IM gasket...torquing everything back in order and at the correct spec...
When this was supposed to be a header job...
It also leaves more room for error... suppose he/she missed a vacuum hose... or an electrical connector or sensor
and didn't know, all they realized was that the car was not acting right after the header install... they there are even more steps to trace back...
And that is what I was trying to get atFastest95PGT said:
...I still have yet to really learn how to do that properly myself...
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Figure that changing all those old vac lines out while you're in there doing the headers isn't a bad idea either... So removing the IM can come in handy afterall! :muhaha:
So removing the IM can come in handy afterall! :muhaha:
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Hahaha let it go man...Agiatrix was making the exact point of why I didn't do it. Yeah eventually I will learn how to remove and install it but right now it's not really necessary. I didn't want to make a long job even longer by trying to figure out the IM and everything that goes along with it.Figure that changing all those old vac lines out while you're in there doing the headers isn't a bad idea either...
metros
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I'll wait for the "my idle is all weird (or doesn't idle at all) after header install... WTF?" post.
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what about the egr tube? havent there been some issues with that
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