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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I need help from somebody with experience in alternator removal from the engine bay. I disconnected all nuts and bolts and wiring, in the middle of the process i realised the alternator was kind of big to be just pulled out of the engine as Hynes mannual recommends.
Right now the alternator is loose, but i can not find any big path to take it out it is too big. I tried to lower it to the ground but the space between passanger CV and steering is too narrow.

Right now i am thinking to disasamble the alternator, and try to take it out in two parts or maybe more.
The question is, that i have to disasamble the new one too in order to put it back, so i want to ask somebody who knows how easy to disasamble the alternator and put it back, if it is harmfull for new alternator or not. Can somebody without electrical experience do it.

Maybe somebody knows how to take it out without disasambling the alternator, or by removing something else.

Thanks for any help.
 

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take off the oil-filter. and try it that way. even change your oil while your at it.
 

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The black carbon canister can be slid out of its bracket and out of the way towards the corner of the engine compartment. With this done, you can just barely slide the alternator up and out from it's original position. Its a tight fit, but if you orient the alternator correctly it can be done. (On both 88-89 and 90-92 cars I might add)

Another way to do it is to remove the throttle body boot, then slide the alternator across and up out the hole where the boot was.

There are several methods to do this. I find taking it out the top after moving the carbon canister the easiest.
 
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I do as magik does, and remove the carbon canister. Very easy.

For those who have A/C lines running in that area you may also have to remove the EGR Valve (3 screws, very easy). Either way, correctly tipped the alternator will slide through.
 

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boho said:

Right now the alternator is loose, but i can not find any big path to take it out it is too big.
Maybe somebody knows how to take it out without disasambling the alternator, or by removing something else.

~ALT removal:
As Magik recommended, take it out from the top.
Simply choose the "best" route and open the passageway up. It's also much easier to get it back in by the top, as you don't have to be laying on your back, trying to support and position it.

The Haynes apparently misled you. Never take a component apart, unless you want bigger problems.
 

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magik8 said:
The black carbon canister can be slid out of its bracket and out of the way towards the corner of the engine compartment. With this done, you can just barely slide the alternator up and out from it's original position. Its a tight fit, but if you orient the alternator correctly it can be done. (On both 88-89 and 90-92 cars I might add)
This is the way I've done it. It's much quicker (about 10 minutes in & out) than pulling it down past the CV joint assembly.

Like magik8 explained, pull the black canister (top left corner of engine department - has vaccum hoses connected) up out of its bracket and push it aside. Also what I found to be very helpful is to remove the 10mm nut from the bracket that is attached on the left side of the Throttle Body which holds the wiring harness and a little ground. That way you have that couple of inches you can use to manuever the alternator out. The best way to pull it out is have the "2 arms" (the pivot arms) of the alternator pointed toward the front right corner of the car (headlights) and slightly upwards and keep adjusting/rotating until you have it out. If you need some pictures, I'll email them to you
 

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yeah man i just had to replace mine a day ago, that is exactly how i did it.

hehe i actually took mine apart once out of the car. because the replacement i got was from the junk yard, and my other alternator was very new, so i swapped out bearings and some other small parts that i was sure were good. works great so far, but i'll let you guys know how it goes.

It was a pain it the a$$ taking it apart and i would not recommned you try it especially while it's still in the car.
 
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You can also remove the intercooler pipes to the intake and remove it from there. I was able to remove my alternator and reinstall the new one without even crawling under my car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
it worked

Thanks guys for helping. I did it. I slide the canister from the way, moved some wires out of the path and holding the alternator in the exact position it was instaled i was able to sqeeze it through all lines and hoses. It took around 10-15 minutes, the car is working now ok. But i have clutch problem now, i started a new thread for that.

Thanks for help.
 

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magik8 said:
The black carbon canister can be slid out of its bracket and out of the way towards the corner of the engine compartment. With this done, you can just barely slide the alternator up and out from it's original position. Its a tight fit, but if you orient the alternator correctly it can be done. (On both 88-89 and 90-92 cars I might add)

Another way to do it is to remove the throttle body boot, then slide the alternator across and up out the hole where the boot was.

There are several methods to do this. I find taking it out the top after moving the carbon canister the easiest.
WooHoo, search option at it's finest!!!!! I've been struggling with the damn thing for the past hour. I removed two alternators from two Probe LX's this afternoon and they easily came out through the bottom. The axles were thin enough that the aletrnator came right out. Same alternator and GT axles, ain't happenin even with the oil filter off (so I got oil in my mouth for nothing)

I came inside after about an hour of turning this way and that way from underneath (I wanted to avoid having to take off any extra parts because it is dark out) to no avail.

My next thought was to remove the EGR assembly and vacuum lines and pull it up that way.

On a side note, I found that my positive wire wasn't making the greatest connection on the alternator and this might have been my problem all along. Either way, I bought two alternators today at the junkies (in case one didn't test good) which both tested fine at Kragen (anyone wanna buy one?)

My next move is to get this thing out and solder the eyelet back onto the + wire.
 

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I gotta spread the love first :(

I also found that the transmission ground was pretty much non existant/hanging on for dear life. I fixed that as well. One thing I noticed about it though, the actual bolt is pretty shallow. I remember thinking WTF is this short bolt for and where does it go? (when I insatlled the motor and tranny) and I put it in my ashtray because it was the only one I had found that short? (figured I'd find out where it went eventually)

I unbolted the one that I had as a tranny ground and regardless of how much wire was on the eyelet, the eyelet was still pretty much floating as the bolt had bottomed out. It was tight but I could move the eyelet still. I remembered the short bolt and voila, fixed.

I still need to go out and install the alternator but I figured I'd take a break and watch Adult Swim whilst I drink a tasty cup of java.
 
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You know my after I changed the alternator in my protege I drove it for about 3 weeks and the charge light came on.

My initial thought was "god damn cheap ass rebuilt alternators", but I decided to investigate further, and I saw that the alternator main wire was backed off.

Tighten that up, and its still going today.
 

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hey I am working on the damn peace of crap right now.. well came in side because it's hot as hell out side....FL..... so let me get this streat there are 3 bolts and 2 or 3 wires? oh and you guys never got under the car? how is this i must know....i don't have a jack or stands to work with right now (i'm also kinda big to fit under it at stock hight)...to make everything better the car has a oil leak from hell 2 qurts a gas tank....guess where all the oil is going...on the alternator....(the leak will be fixed at a later date)....
 

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There is one 14mm bolt underneath, this is the actual swing arm and should be loose. There are two 12mm bolts on top. One is the tensioner bolt (the long threaded one) and one is the bracket that holds the tensioner bolt. Loosen the bracket to allow the tensioner bolt to be loosened and slack to be givin to the belt. There is also one 14mm bolt on the actual bracket to block itself, remove this one as well. Once you get the alternator almost out, you can turn it to get the clip out (plastic clip) it's kind of a pain to take out sometime. Squeeze the plug and wiggle it out. Next is the cable on top, this come off with a 10mm ratchet. MAKE SURE that you are careful when taking it off. It's a thin bolt that goes all the way inside an attaches to the electrical connections, if you break it, it's toast. I broke one taking the nut off, the bolt twisted/sheared right off with zero effort.

Once you have both out, you can move the carcoal canister (upper left corner behind strut tower with vacuum lines attached) and pull the alternator out.

When you get it back it, install is opposite of removal. Get all the brackets on, get tension on the belt, then tighten the tensioner bracket.
 
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