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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been trying to remove the crank center bolt for about an hour now, i've tried an impact wrench and breaker bars, but problem with breaker bars is that they need the thing to be still and i have no way of keeping it from turning.

the impact wrench just keeps hitting but it never comes off (i'm losing hearing in one ear from that damn thing).

Please help any suggestions are welcome.
 

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Hey ElNorm, all I can say is, I used my Chicago Pneumatics 1/2" drive impact. I put it in reverse, hammered, and broke it loose. It took only 15 seconds of hammering. The only suggestion I can give is...put in a pair of ear plugs, lube up your impact with some air tool oil...and don't stop until it comes off. You might need a stronger impact. An impact is the best thing to get it off.
 

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With regards to the break bar, do you mean that the engine keeps turning over. If so stop it :) In the manual it says to put a screw driver through the flywheel access hole into the teeth around the outside of the flywheel. When I did mine I had no idea what access hole they were on about. Turns out they are the black rubber/plastic things on the bellhousing.

I used a slightly more dodgy and not recommended method. I put it in gear, and one wheel was on the ground, so the due to the action of the diff one wheel would still turn. So a screwdriver was jammed into the brake disc between the caliper. This would then stop the whole lot of turning.
I know completely dodgy method, wouldnt do it again, was getting very frustrated at that time. Puts big stress on the box, clutch, diff.

Another friend of mine used an even more dodgy method on another car, attached a socket, jammed it against part of the car and turned over the engine with the starter. I can say im not that bloody dodgy though.
 

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Turning the engine over with the breaker bar and socket attatched as not to move does work in a pinch. Use the suspension arm as a stop and barely let the engine crank.

Er...Not that I would do anything as crazy as that...cuz, y'know...Im not crazy, I read about it on the internet....(yes thats it) :E

Gavin
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
hey thanks for all the good advice, i've tired all of it though, i did about 3-4 min or more of impact wrench (one that took a stuck axle nut off in 10 seconds) and nothing. so i did a search, hehe Moltar sugested the method of heating the bolt and then impact, or using the starter. lol i skipped the heating went straight for the starter, made a nice setup where the wrench could not fling or fall off and with one click it came right off.

damn the access to the fly wheel thing would of been alot of help if i knew about it earlier. lol i was doing kinda ur method, but i took a long pipe and pressed it on the brake held it in place by the drivers seat. i didn;t feel that comfortable using a breaker bar after seeing it actually feels liek a spring as tension gets put on every part of the drive line....


anyways all done, both cam and crank seal are new and threw in a new timing belt. thanks all
 

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the big prybar inserted into flywheel does work, and if braced -an asssistant here is most helpful-against floor/ground will prevent crank from turning when removing the 100 ft lb. tight crank nut and re-torqueing.

also, delicate is removing the old seals without scraching the soft aluminum and inserting the new seals squarely.
 

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Good Job Elnorm, I'm glad to see that you came out on top.:)
 
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drsjr1980 said:
Chicago Pneumatics 1/2" drive impact
Are these any good? I get harbor freight catalogs full of junk, and I've always wondered if this brand was any good because they are so cheap?
 

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That was a pretty sad pun sleepcounter.

However, I think being dodgy is an australian thing.

I wish I could get a TX5...Talk about unique :)
 

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You asked if Chicago Pneumatics is any good... I like it, this is the only CP tool I have. When I was in the market for an impact, this is the one my "snap-on guy" recomended me to buy. It's got good torque, you can probably buy an equivalent in power in a Craftsman and still save money.
 

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timtx5 said:
Another friend of mine used an even more dodgy method on another car, attached a socket, jammed it against part of the car and turned over the engine with the starter. I can say im not that bloody dodgy though.
Nothing dodgy about that. I've done that many times on many different cars and it always works. Getting the sucker back on is a different story since you cant run the starter in reverse :)
 
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anarchyx34 said:
you cant run the starter in reverse :)
Since when? Does the starter have a diod in it? Otherwise you should just be able to swap the polarity and have it run backwards.
 

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Hehe, I was using the word dodgy to emphasise that it probably isnt the best method. I kind of over did it I suspect :)


Nothing that unique about tx5's really, just a 626 hatch with slightly different body work, wheels and paint. Would be a little different over there I guess, for people that actually know about GD's.
 

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FlySwat said:
That was a pretty sad pun sleepcounter.

However, I think being dodgy is an australian thing.

I wish I could get a TX5...Talk about unique :)
i bet it would be pretty easy to make a TX5 clone. its something that i would consider doing if i had a spare 5 door. but i like the look of the 626 front end better than the mx6/tx5 style anyway.
 

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el norm said:
but problem with breaker bars is that they need the thing to be still and i have no way of keeping it from turning.


if you are talking about the center nut on the outside of the wheel, the probe manual says to have a friend apply the brakes too keep it from moving.
 

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Re: Re: Help Crank center bolt

TiZBaD99 said:
if you are talking about the center nut on the outside of the wheel, the probe manual says to have a friend apply the brakes too keep it from moving.
i tried removing the axel hub nut with a breaker bar becuase i dont own an impact. so i had someone step on the breaks for me. that thing was so froze on there i ended up picking up the front wheel.
 
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