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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So... I just bought a 1990 MX-6 GT and I love it!! Its bone stock and it kills all my friends cars. But I want to go faster. In your guy's opinon what are the best upgrades for my buck... should I start off with my exhaust or should I start playin with my turbo setup... Give me anything and everything ya got! If you know of some killer deals let me know cause i want it all! thanks
 

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Check out anarchyx's homepage at http://anarchyx34.homepage.com as it has a mini feautre on the Grainger valve, which can be used to increase the turbocharger boost pressure going into the intake.

Oh BTW, if the server gives you error messages, just hit reload. Homepage.com hass been a bit spastic lately.
 

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welcome.

Welcome to the first generation MX-6 experience!!!
I'm glad you like your car; just take care of it and don't go crazy with the boost and blow it up. The GTs are getting thin on the ground.
-You should switch over to sythetic motor oil like Mobil One Tri-synth. The extra 10$ it costs per oil change is well worth it and will make your car run better and last much much longer (it especially helps protect your turbo).
-Follow the warning on the reverse side of your sun visor and let the car cool down before you turn it off. This is really important even though it IS a hassle; maybe get a turbo timer.
-As far as performance upgrades go. It really is a good idea to make your car handle better before making more power. This way your car's chassis will be able to handle the extra oomph; driving will be much more enjoyable this way, PLUS better suspension helps you get the power to the ground without tourque steer or wheel hop. Eibach springs and Tokico shocks are good options that several people like.
If you do the grainger valve thing get a boost gauge and an Air/fuel ratio meter so you don't damage things...Here's a good place for those things: http://www.dawesdevices.com/

Hope this helps you...btw what year and color is your car and how many miles does it have?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the great advice antiSUV... My car is a 1990. Its bright red with 130000 miles on it. So next time i change my oil i should go straight for the synthetic oil? anything special i need to do? or just change the filter and dump the synthetic in? should i also look into a strut brace for the front of my car or is that really needed?
 

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more stuff....

quote:
So next time i change my oil i should go straight for the synthetic oil?

-Yes, I consider synthetic oil almost a must, especially on turbo cars. Turbos are really hard on oil. One of the main causes of turbo failure is when oil sits inside a hot turbo after the car is shut down; there is no oil circulation, it just sits there on the bearings and cooks. This leaves a residue, or coking (I think it's called) on the bearings and eventually causes turbo failure which is obviously not desireable :) (This is why you should let the car cool before you shut down.) I use Mobil One Tri-Synthetic 10w-30. When I first switched to synthetic @ 110,000 miles I noticed my car ran smoother. I've read things that said synthetic oil can free up to 3 hp, but that's probably only in really big engines. I'm convinced of it's better protective properties because in the 70,000 miles I've run synth, my car hasn't lost any power - the engine seems to be in the same condition as at 110,000k.

quote:
anything special i need to do? or just change the filter and dump the synthetic in?

-Well Mobil One makes a good filter you might use if you wanna spend the extra money (not a bad idea), but otherwise
you can just go straight to sythetic without any problems. Ignore any moron who tries to tell you sythetic is bad for your engine or your engine wasn't designed for it. Those people are living in the 70's and probably drive a monster truck or a '78 camaro with billet wheels.
Only drawback to using synthetic is it's expense (it will more than pay for itself in the long run), and the fact that you have to change your own oil because those quick change places will only knock about 5$ off the price if you bring your own oil (but you don't want those people touching your car anyways).

quote:
should i also look into a strut brace for the front of my car or is that really needed?

-That would be nice but they are kinda hard to find. http://www.corksport.com stocks a couple (and other neat things for our cars). The corksport one they make is the best out there but I think they only have 1 or 2 left in stock and aren't going to make any more...also it's 200$. I guess you have the OEM Mazda one on the rear of your car. That's a good piece.
If you're going to get new struts and springs it's best to make your chassis as stiff as possible. This way the suspension is forced to do it's job and your car won't flex and make the interior pieces vibrate so much. I'm looking into injecting my frame rails with structural 2-part catalysing foam. A bunch of expensive cars use this stuff to be really stiff. It's not that expensive for the difference it's supposed to make. check out: http://www.itwfoamseal.com/automotive_aftermarket.htm
There's an article that describes it in the June 2000 issue of Sport Compact Car.
 

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crap, almost forgot a really important thing!

1stgenlover your car has 130,000 miles on it right? Well do you know if the previous owner replaced the timing belt at 120,000 miles? If you know who they are you should try to get in touch with them and ask. If the car came from a dealer with no service records you might wanna change it as soon as possible. The timing belt needs replacing every 60,000 miles, so if it hasn't been done then you are over-due. Our engines will pretty much kill themselves if the timing belt breaks becuase the valves will smack into the pistons (maybe you already know this stuff - I'm not trying to be condescending, sorry). I'm about to replace my timing belt myself as soon as I get some free time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks again antiSUV

thanks again for all the great advice. I did realize that the timing belt is extremely important but i didnt have the faintest idea on when it needed to be changed. How hard is it to change the timing belt myself? (Ive worked on quite a few older cars but havent really done anything to a car that was above an 85) Is changing the timing something that i could do myself or should i get a shop to do it for me?
 

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hmmm..

Well I've never done the timing belt change myself...I'm about to tackle that for the first time. If you've worked on cars before you can probably do it. From what I know it doesn't sound too hard.
Change your board settings to show posts from the last 60 days and look for a thread called "timing belt change - at home - HELP please" I started that thread and in it some people give me some good advice.
I'm going to do this thing myself because it's too expensive to have someone else do it.
 

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I was out at Schucks the other night when, for the first time, I purchased Synthetic Oil for my car and right after I changed the oil and filter I noticed a different in my ride. The guy at Schucks said that with the filter I bought, a double guard fram $9.99, I should only use that filter about every 4-5 oil changes on the synthetic, because he said the teflon could come off the filter and really reak havoc on my engine. Just an FYI...
 

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I really really hate to do this because it most likely will bring up another ugly oil discussion. BUT I have heard many guys with GTs saying that it is not a good change for a car raised on conventional oil. Sorry...... Main reason that I heard was that it was too thin and may actual leak on they old gaskets.

I started using synthetic at 70,000. Used it till 80,000 and never had a leak. So that is obviously not all cars.

However I am now using a blend 25-50% synthetic.

No matter what oil you use.......just change it regularly. I do it every 2,500 miles.
 

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Not in my experience

I've heard about that gasket thing before, but I have no leaks and have been using synthetic for over 70,000 miles. and my car was definitely raised on conventional oil (for 110,000 miles.)
People may say it will cause leaks but maybe they just heard that from their old uncle. Did they actually experience leaks themselves? Maybe they never switched to sythetic themselves becasue of these rumours. Plus, how do you know that they weren't about to have a leak anyways? Maybe the synthetic had nothing to do with it.

Another thing is maybe some synthetics have a better chance of causing leaks than others. I use Mobil One and don't have leaks...this may not be the case for someone who uses a different brand.

Many of these synthetic oil rumours started when the stuff first came out and then the rumours never died. Maybe some companies didn't have their formulae right the first time out, caused some people problems, and then gave synthetic oil in general a bad rep.

It's everyone's choice what kind of oil to use. People have used conventional oils for 100 years and they work fine. I just think for an engine that beats up on it's oil like a turbo you need the extra protection.

(Oh wait I do have one leak I remember. My turbo oil seal is going bad. I do have 182,000 miles though, so that probably would have happened anyways. My turbo is still dandy.)
 

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maybe when they refer to leaks, are leaks past the compression or oil control rings on the pistons. That would make more sense than the head gasket. After the wear'n'tear on the cylinder walls after 150,000 miles using thinner oil could let through oil causing a 'leak'. Thus burning oil and using it. Although that is a commonly a problem found in American motors (not the company) pre-90s cars. However Import engines are very tough against wear'n'tear (most of all jap cars), so i don't know.

But what i've heard is that, once you switch over you shouldn't change back.
 
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