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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought my first MX-6 for $300. It's a V6 w/ 180k miles in fair/good shape with a manual transmission. It runs, but has a MTX seal leak and needs some TLC, which I am fully capable of giving.

I also own a SSM 93 RX-7 FD that I completely overhauled (engine and turbos) and had an 88 RX-7 N/A FC before that which my father now owns.

Just looking for a little advice. I work at a shop and will put the car on the lift and pinpoint the leak's source within the next few weeks. If I have to drop the trans I'll be doing the clutch disc/PP/TOB and rear main crank seal as well as the input shaft seal. Any other suggestions? Anything else I should look for?

Timing belt issues with these cars? Are they interference engines?
 

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Hi and welcome,

None interferance, belts every 60k, also suggested to replace the water pump at the same time due to location and the pain in the ass job it is to change the belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi and welcome,

None interferance, belts every 60k, also suggested to replace the water pump at the same time due to location and the pain in the ass job it is to change the belt.
Great... I thought it would have been an interference engine due to the compact design and high output.

So, how does this car do at autocross or HPDE track days? It's got a fairly good power to weight ratio, but how does it handle?

I think the car I bought has aftermarket springs. Hopefully it was done right and the struts aren't blown to smithereens.
 

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I cannot comment on your countries track days, but if you would like to follow this link .. Just one of Piers track movies .. it will show you just what an MX-6 can do, when stripped, and prep'd correctly.

Fully furnished, the 6 is quite heavy, soon changes things once you start stripping it out.

Must also mention that Piers also has the KLZE engine installed, and they come in at 200hp std over the 164hp a-spec.
 

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in their respective stock classes back in the day - mazda in general was fairly dominant in both road course and auto-x... the miata/mx6/fd rx7 was considered a triple threat.

The mx6's are fairly competent, but just remember, its a 15 year old or older chassis with a ton of miles.. so it will definitely need going over to replace all the little wear bits to bring it close to its "like new" feel.

having restored an FD - you'll find many things familiar... the mx6 handles remarkably like the FD with the obvious major difference being a fwd platforms tendency to understeer in a pinch. but overall "feel" in terms of feedback, 8/10's capabilities around a turn, etc... i found them to be pretty remeniscent of the FD. I'd even daresay you'll find it to outperform the n/a FC at trackday.

even on stock srpings, a GOOD set of shocks will do wonders on this car, so if yours are even slightly questionable- consider the upgrade.

as for common problems - the distributors like to go out and the rear brake calipers e-brake hinge likes to sieze. These two are probably the most noteworthy, though there are a few other niggling little issues that'll get ya.

Look at the hydraulic timing belt tensioner - very common wear item. also the lifter adjusters (also hydraulic) tend to get clogged, which can have the effect of something small like light tapping on cold startups, to complete HLA collapse, and permanent loud tap due to excess lash.

performance wise - headers really open these cars up... they make great midrange as-is and headers just enhance this. exhaust helps a little, but not as much as you'd think. if you decide to go with a ZE engine down the line - an exhaust is a must.

but before getting ahead of ourselves... regarding the specific issue you're experiencing - the leaky tranny seal... which seal?

its most likely just one of the compression ring seals where the axles go in. that's an easy no-tranny drop fix.

another thing to check is your intermediate shaft. at that many miles i wouldn't be surprised if it were tight and/or clicking because of a worn bearing.

They are cheap to replace/re-press bearings into, so consider having that done.

good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
in their respective stock classes back in the day - mazda in general was fairly dominant in both road course and auto-x... the miata/mx6/fd rx7 was considered a triple threat.

The mx6's are fairly competent, but just remember, its a 15 year old or older chassis with a ton of miles.. so it will definitely need going over to replace all the little wear bits to bring it close to its "like new" feel.

having restored an FD - you'll find many things familiar... the mx6 handles remarkably like the FD with the obvious major difference being a fwd platforms tendency to understeer in a pinch. but overall "feel" in terms of feedback, 8/10's capabilities around a turn, etc... i found them to be pretty remeniscent of the FD. I'd even daresay you'll find it to outperform the n/a FC at trackday.

even on stock srpings, a GOOD set of shocks will do wonders on this car, so if yours are even slightly questionable- consider the upgrade.

as for common problems - the distributors like to go out and the rear brake calipers e-brake hinge likes to sieze. These two are probably the most noteworthy, though there are a few other niggling little issues that'll get ya.

Look at the hydraulic timing belt tensioner - very common wear item. also the lifter adjusters (also hydraulic) tend to get clogged, which can have the effect of something small like light tapping on cold startups, to complete HLA collapse, and permanent loud tap due to excess lash.

performance wise - headers really open these cars up... they make great midrange as-is and headers just enhance this. exhaust helps a little, but not as much as you'd think. if you decide to go with a ZE engine down the line - an exhaust is a must.

but before getting ahead of ourselves... regarding the specific issue you're experiencing - the leaky tranny seal... which seal?

its most likely just one of the compression ring seals where the axles go in. that's an easy no-tranny drop fix.

another thing to check is your intermediate shaft. at that many miles i wouldn't be surprised if it were tight and/or clicking because of a worn bearing.

They are cheap to replace/re-press bearings into, so consider having that done.

good luck!
The guy I bought it from seemed to think it was the MTX input shaft seal. Hopefully I'll get lucky and it'll be the axle seals. I don't relish dropping a FWD MTX, but I'll do it if nececssary.

I plan on picking it up tomorrow, so wish me luck on the drive home. I'm bringing ramps, gear oil, and a transmission filler.
 

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i'd suggest keeping that gear oil nice and hot lol. this cold and it's not going to flow very nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The gear oil took forever to squeeze in.

Good news is that it's definitely the axle seals.

The car has some major issues that need to be addressed:

-axle seals
-coilovers on stock struts: I nearly flew out the sunroof over a bump on the interstate!
-front left wheel bearing is bad
-maybe a bad thing: I can wiggle the drivers side axle in the differential... I know I've felt this on RWD cars and it's alright, but what about on this MTX? This is the one without the carrier bearing.

The good:

-new calipers
-new tires
-cold A/C
-GM ignition module and coil conversion (done shoddily, but re-did it today properly)
-one new CV axle
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, I've bought some parts for the cream puff:

4 stock strut assemblies w/ 88k miles - $255 delivered
wheel bearing and axle seals - $60

That puts the total cost of the project up to $700.

Next thing I'm going to check is the timing belt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh, and I'm going to check out the shifter bushings. Third gear is really easy to miss, is this a common problem... if so, what is the common fix?
 

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make sure the bushings at the shifter, and at the tranny are good. common problem.
 
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