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Discussion Starter #1
So I was hoping that when I tried to start it up this morning it would be fine to go, but the timing is so bad the car just craps out and wont idle. Aparently the marks I made when removing the distributer are no longer gonna work so whats the next step besides just turning it a little and trying it again? The manual makes it sound like the car needs to be idling on its own before I hook up a timing light and verify its setting.
 

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You first need to ground the STI connector located on the drivers side strut tower to effectively disable the ECU's control over the igniton timing, and then set the base timing from there. This is detailed in the mazda factory workshop manual.

By "the manual," which one are you referring to? If it's not the factory workshop manual I wouldn't trust what that thing tells you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah its a green connector, I just thought wrong. I think I have it where it wants to idle but the EGR pipe is leaking pretty bad and I'll have to figure that out sometime tomorrow after work.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, I didnt figure anything out after work today besides that I screwed myself when I removed the distributer without the engine being at TDC. Now that its at TDC for the timing belt my marks are off and its causing a royal pain in the ass. Hopefully tomorrow in the daylight I'll have better luck getting the car to idle above 500.
 
J

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Get a buddy of yours to hold the timing light while you keep the engine running by turning the throttle linkage and turn the distributor with the other hand.

It can be done :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is there a mark on the pulley also for setting the timing? I mean in the shop manual it shows you using the timing light from the top but I just havent understood how you can see the crank mark besides from the wheel well.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also, do I know the Self Test jumper is grounded when the CEL is flashing when the ignition is on? I'd like to think I have the ECU control disabled when I finally set the base timing.
 

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When you ground the self test jumper and turn the ignition to the on position, you enable the computer to post codes of malfunctioning sensors. I would plug in and ground the wire, turn the ignition on (without starting the car) and read the codes. (instructions located here: http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=70310&highlight=cel+codes )
Replace or repair any malfunctioniong parts, switches, sensors, ect. as indicated by the fault codes.

Then, place the number one cylinder at top dead center (TDC can be found two ways: take spark plugs out, shine light in hole number one {nearest the timing belt}, turn engine over until piston is seen moving up, then down. Or, take off the lower timing belt cover and position the crank pully indicator mark to coincide with the indicator mark on the block) Then, if necesarry, loosten the timing belt tensioner and place the cam at TDC. (this is done by aligning the indicator marks on the top of the head with the arrow near the number 1 on the cam gear.) If timing belt is moved, hand crank the engine over 2 revolutions with a 21 (or 22mm, I can't remember) socket turning the crank pulley. Doing this properly tensions the belt, and you can then tighten the belt tensioner pulley. (if this is not done, the belt will just jump around on you)

Step 3: (with everything located at TDC) Assuming the dist. is in the correct location, take the cap off the dist. and place the rotor to point at number one. (this is indicated on the cap itself, or on my 89 and 90 GT's it's the post on the cap located closest to the intake tube attatched to the air flow meter.
When the dist. is positioned, attatch the plug wires in this order: (this is IMPORTANT as I have found the Haynes manual to be hard to understand and/or inncorrect) Begin at the post indicated with a number 1, going clockwise hook up the rest of the wires in this order: 1-2-4-3. {if you were to look at either of my cars from the drivers side fender number 3 would be on "top", 1 to the right, 2 on the "bottom", and 4 to the left or front of the vehicle}

Once you have all known parts in working order, and everything postitioned correctly, the car should at least run. though it may run rather rough! Turn the car off. Ground the self test jumper to dissable the computers' electronic advancement of the dist. Start the car, and use the timing light to set the timing at 9 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) (you may want to use a paint pen or even white-out to highlight the mark on the crank pulley)
I appologize if you are already aware of all this, but it is good reference. And since I fought my car last week for 3 evenings, only to start at step one on the fourth night. I thought I would simply advise you to begin at step one now. At least you'll know it's right!
-Britt-
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
marolf101x said:
Step 3: (with everything located at TDC) Assuming the dist. is in the correct location, take the cap off the dist. and place the rotor to point at number one. (this is indicated on the cap itself, or on my 89 and 90 GT's it's the post on the cap located closest to the intake tube attatched to the air flow meter.
From what you're saying I need to remove the rotor and align it with point 1 when the cam is at TDC with cylinder 1? How could this have gotten so messed up?

Also, I made timing marks very big in white on my crank pulley when I had it off the crank. The marks corresponded to the tooth that it has to fit on the crank. However now my marks are way off of that tooth when I checked it again and I'm just stumped on how that could have happened since the pulley only has one way to go on and now the timing marks have shifted about an inch over.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Aaah, this is driving me crazy. Everything is set up at TDC but the rotor itself is still pointing where it would fire after cylinder 4 compression which would explain the horrible idle with the timing so retarded. Is actually removing the rotor and moving it around gonna hurt anything or is that the next place to start?

Could somebody please just tell me where their rotor is facing when the engine is at #1 TDC? I have a feeling my timing is just too retarded and the rotor should be on the other side of plug 4.
 

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When you have the cam and the crank aligned with the marks on the block so they are in time with each other then you set the cam gear pointing at the mark on the block, this is TDC for the #1 cylinder. The mark on the crank pulley should be at the "T" mark on the lower timing cover. Now your distributor rotor needs to be pointed at the #1 spark plug wire post. When setting your timing with the timing light, I have found it easier to see the mark with the light if you move the coolant resevoir out of the way, one screw removes the bracket on top then it just pulls out of the clip, no need to disconnect, just put it on the headlight.
 

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Like I said in my earlier post: once cylinder is at TDC, and the cam gear is at TDC (both indicated by aligning the marks) then you can remove the rotor and point it at the post that coresponds to the number "1" molded into the plastic dist. cap. (on both my 89 and 90 GT's number 1 is the post closest to the intake tube.
I'll go take pictures of it right now and post them asap!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah I know to get it all setup where it needs to be and its sitting there right now. I'll see how close I can get the rotor to 1 in the morning when I have light again because right now the rotor is 180 degrees from where it is in your picture if that makes sense. I'm glad we're finally on the same page now with where the rotor needs to be.

Also, has anyone else noticed the crank pulley is really two pieces that can move a little? Now I know how my timing marks were off but I'm clueless how the pieces could have rotated like that while I was asleep on the couch.
 

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yes i noticed the pulleys but mine did not move that much but it would mater thow .

try taking the dissy off and rotate the whole thing.
 

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well it was a thought! i will keep thinking
 
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Actually, if you flip the dizzy 180 degree's it will engage with the camshaft again.

Common problem with screwing up timing after changing the distributor :)
 
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