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Discussion Starter #1
Dammit..

For the last 2 days my ATX 'Hold' light on the dash has been flashing..

I've looked in my Owners handbook, NOTHING.

Looked in the Probe/MX6/626 haynes manual i bought, NOTHING.
(Why does this not mention TX5's at all by the way??)

Searched a bit on here, and all i can find is people saying 'if you hold light is flashing your tranny is stuffed'. Or 'Disconnect the battery for 2 mins and it'll go away for a while'

Surely it can means something a bit more specific than that!

I havn't had time to check my codes, and i havn't really got a lot of time to search for a solution :(
I've booked it into FluidDrive for a full ATX service tommorow.

It's all down hill from here isn't it?, unless of course, its the begining of a MTX swap! ;)


Caleb.
 

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Is your speedo working? Is the ATX working normally?

You won't know whats wrong with it until you extract the codes.
 

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I have the geniune factory manuals at home. I can let you know tommorrow. But after i sold my auto it did the same thing. I was talking to the owner and the "Hold light" was apparently flashing but it still drove ok. however, a week later, the stall converter totally died. It gave no notice, just would no go in D 2 1 R ect. Would free rev. Cost $400 in parts and a mate did all the labour for free. However, from memory there are a number of causes for this to happen. Most of them are quite serious however.
 

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I have blown 2 autos from 1st Gens never came on
But I think your out of fluid or down
If you blow the ATX it can cost you
 

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mine came on too alot when i had my atx, i hated it, it was so annoying...i took it to have codes ran and 2 places told me they couldn't read it??? uh thanks but anyway, it sucks, so i just wanted to let you know i had the same problem, what i got out of it, is something to do with governer, everytime you go past even like 105 it starts flashing and i think the govern on those is 112? correct me if i'm wrong i just think thats what it was, but anyway everytime over 105 to 112 it would start flashing...
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Damn... it doesn't sound good..

Silver: the car is still driving normally, and the instrument cluster is working as it should. I'll extract the codes tonight and post my findings.

It may have slipped on me this morning, not sure what happened really, it went from first to second to third and back to second in the same movement almost. :shrug:

To be honest i havn't checked the fluid as yet, i did check it last weekend though and it was fine, i havn't noticed any fluid under the car but that certainly doesn't rule out the possibility. It's getting a filter and fluid change at Fluiddrive... I'll check this tonight aswell.

Could the IAT mod be the cause of this? I spose that'll be easier to answer after i extract the codes.

Thanks heaps for all ya help,

Caleb.

PS. jimxsix: It'd be great if you could look it up for me, my car's not actually booked in until Friday.. Thanks!
 

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the IAT mod of killed something. Remember that when the IAT mod is on when you start the car you will get the HOLD light flashing. Check the wiring for the mod as well.
 

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Check the fluid dude and get some in it a ATX with out fluid does not go. You might have burned up the Auto and now it's slipping
put some dexron 3 in it. Make sure when you pull out the dip stick you are on level ground. If it's low it will take around 3 litres in some cases to get it to full.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, I just checked the codes and this is what i got;

The hold light stayed on for a few seconds, and then flashed once for half a sec, stayed off for ~4 secs, and flashed once again for half a sec, and so on.

Code 01: NE1 (Crankshaft position sensor)

Doesn't sound good! (Can't find anything in the Haynes manual)
However, this is how it flashes whilst i'm driving.. Is this fault so serious that the ECU flashes out the code without the diagnosis wire connected?

Or is it not flashing out the code at all, and just still flashing because 'my tranny is stuffed' ?

I checked the fluid and it was a little down but not much, i topped it up and went for a drive and it's still flashing! (or would i have to clear my codes?) I don't think it's gunna be as simple as fluid.

Silver: I've started my car with the IAT switch on by accident before and the HOLD light didn't flash?? I just checked my wires though and they're ok.

Once again. thanks for ya help.

Caleb.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Distributor??
Im confused.. The document i have says code 01 is a NE1 crankshaft position sensor?!

I thought the HOLD light only showed Transmission problems, And you had to use the other method's to extract other codes?

I'm not doubting you at all Silver! Don't get me wrong im just confused! :)

I'll leave it booked in for the ATX service, but how do i find out if it is my distributor?

Urrrgh!,

Caleb.
 
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i had the same problem on my car. the techs at the mazda dealership told me to bring my car in and they said my transmision had to be replaced. did you get everything fixed by now?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No, everything's not fixed.

The ATX service was done, they extracted the same code as i did (and were quite interested in how i managed to do it :D). Which was the Crankshaft Position Sensor.

They found no problem with the tranny itself, and told me it was an electrical fault.

Firstly, some more info on the EXACT problem;
The car would not start normally, it cranks for about 8-15 seconds and then starts. It used to start in like 1/2 a second..

However, sometimes it starts normally and the hold light doesn't flash and all is fine until next time...

When the hold light is flashing, the hold button doesn't work, and the torque converter is prevented from locking up. It also changes gears a bit weird.

It's spent last Wednesday at the Auto Electricians, they extracted the same code, and removed the distributor to examine further. The sensor is faulty, this is why the car will not start right away, it is looking for a signal from the sensor. The ECU apparently realises the sensor is faulty, and starts the car in what he called 'limp' mode. It just takes about 10 seconds for all of this to happen..

Ok, the sensor is not available seperately from Ford or Mazda. Apparently it is a Mitsibishi item, im not sure of any part numbers.
New Distributor from ford: $1800. (??? sheesh)
New distributor from mazda: $900.

Auto elec recomends a $600 reco job from Melbourne, however i've found another reco one in Melbourne for $400.

Not sure which way i'm gunna go yet.

He also said that he has replaced about 20 distributors in MX6/626/TX5's in the last few years, but before that he never saw them one of em.

Catchya,

Caleb.
 

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I just got a 95 i4 atx... was running really rough, found out the intake gasket needed to be changed... did that... now it's idling really high (like 2500-2750rpms) and even when not idling really high, it still shifts really hard going into drive or rev. Also, my Hold light started flashing and will not go into O/D when driving. it shifts hard (like jerks forward) when shifting from 1-2 and also kinda rough when shifting from 2-3. Any one have any ideas?
 

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Check for intake leaks (hoses not on right etc) and also check your TPS (throttle postion sensor). That should be somewhere to start with.
 

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extracting codes for ATX only works via the same plug if it's a 2nd series GD AKA Gd1022 for mazda. So that would be At2 for them.

It's only a basic system.

hold light 90% time flash due to work lock-up- low fluid pressure No lockup
No VSS input (if oyu have a broken speedo cable does this) a few others too.
 

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I know that my chevy had a "limp mode" that would not allow lockup. I would assume that the hold light would flash in this case. I know my tranny shifts HARD from 1st to 2nd sometimes depending on how much throttle but I just figured that it was aggressive since they were built to handle a turbo right? My Legend shifted hard from 1st to 2nd too and it was fine.

By the way....what the hell is the hold button for and how and when should it be used?
 
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