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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi,

i was wondering if any of u guys/gals know how to build a good custom intake. i've heard homemades can make the same or more hp with out the cost of a store made. what materials r good, and how do u attach a filter to it? well any steps, hints, or suggestions would be great, thanks alot

john
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Bigprobe at probetalk makes custom HS style PVC intakes. He does features on request and paints it and everything too for like $30 total. Lot's of people are very happy with his intake
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
willmx6 said:
Bigprobe at probetalk makes custom HS style PVC intakes. He does features on request and paints it and everything too for like $30 total. Lot's of people are very h appy with his intake
I also make a hs style out of intake hose and a filter that only cost me $50. e-mail me for instructions
 

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PRM style intake for only $25CDN!

This is the easiest and one of the most cost effective intakes you can make. Works very well.

I was lucky enough to have found a shop that had a ractive shielded filter on display. They weren't actually selling the thing, they had it there for comparison purposes. I asked them how much they wanted for it and after a little bargaining, they sold it to me for $15CDN. I think it normally sells for around $50CDN for the filter and shield, no elbow. Regardless, it's a very affordable reusable cotton gauze element, around the same as a K&N or any other knock off.

After removing the stock air filter box (approx. 5min) I simply attatched the 3" filter right on to the air flow sensor and tightened a 3" hose clamp. This clamp is not really necessary as the filter is pretty snug, but it only cost a buck for the clamp. I'm sure a new filter will come with a clamp.

To avoid ingesting hot engine air, and I mean hot, the filter ends up right behind the rad fan and gets rammed with hot air, I picked up a section of 4" flexible aluminum dryer hose. The inlet of the filter is about 4" and the hose just slipped right over the front. You will need a 4" hose clamp here as the dryer ducting will slide off. Now route the hose straight down and tuck it into the splash guard. I was able to get it to point forward for a ram air effect. Water is not a problem as the hose is too damn wide for water to get sucked up.

There you have it a custom CAI for less than a tank of gas!
Apparantly the difference in underhood temperatures vs ambient is about 40-50 degrees F which equals about 4-5 HP! This CAI really works and is really cheap. For kicks I wrapped the hose with foam/aluminum insulating tape to shield the ducting from heat. It worked but not that necessary.

I plan on replacing the dryer ducting with a 90degree aluminun elbow for asthetic purposes but this adds no performance gains, just looks.

[Edited by dj petey on 10-11-2000 at 10:00 PM]
 
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