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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just wondering, have u guys had any semi-major problems with your turbo yet? i asked the mechanic who serviced my car today and he said it should last till 150000 - 180000km, and i've already got 120000 on my odo, should i start to save up for a rebuild?
 

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Mine has 159k miles on it and it still works perfectly. Dosent leak oil and there's no play in the bearings. It's all in how it was cared for. Frequent oil changes and no hot-shutdowns play a big part in turbo longevity.
 

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My motor/turbo had 166K on it when i upgraded the turbo. My turbo is still in excellent condition even after the 2.5 years of me driving the hell out of it boosting 15psi. I'm very impressed. Just keep up on the oil changes and never shut it down hot without letting it cool down and you should have many more miles of boosting left. If you ever do need a rebuild I would suggest getting the T-bird upgrade for a little more performance.
 

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turbo rebuild

Mine went out at 126000 miles. The cost isnt much mine was $400, couldve been $240 for just a rebuild, but had some performance work done to it and had a snapped turbine shaft. I realy suggest getting a turbo timer if you want to extend your turbo life, unless you want to wait in your car while it cools down. Replacing the turbo is a snap, Ive removed/installed mine 3 times (going for 4 in April for a Thomas Knight turbo). I can swap them in around 30 min. Got any questions post them, later.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
well i never thought about replacing the turbo by myself... i wouldn't even know how to replace the headlight! so what do u do? just unbolt all the hose connections and chuck the turbo on? and how much did u pay?
 

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steps for turbo removal

Dont take it to a mechanic, save money and do it yourself. Use the money you saved and get something that will make your car faster, better, or something else. Replacing it becomes easy ,once you do it 3 times. Heres a quick summary of it.
Remove the negative batery cable. Remove the heat sheild, oxygen sensor, and drain the coolant. Then you remove the two radiator hoses and the radiator. Its easier with the radiator out of the way, plus you cant damage it by hitting it with the heavy ass turbo. Next remove the inlet turbo hose running from the MAF and remove the turbo outlet hose. You unbolt the exhaust down pipe, 3 bolts. Unscrew the oil feed line to the turbo and bend it out of your way. Next you unscrew the 1 inch pipe on the driver side of the exhaust manifold and unbolt the turbo from the bottom, 1 bolt. Do what I did and just cut the 3 hoses behind the turbo, its best to replace them with new ones. You can now remove the 6 bolts holding it onto the head and pull the old one out and new one in. Its a good time to change the oil, coolant, and thermostat. Installation is in the reverse order. Make sure to get oil into the turbo before starting the engine. You do this by removing the spark plug wires from the spark plugs and cranking the engine, thus putting oil into the turbo. Its also good to do this every time you change the oil. As for the pricing, I paid $400 (performance rebuild), but a regular rebuild should run you around $220-$260 depending on where you take it. I got mine rebuilt by Texas Rebuild you can find them at: http://www.turbochargers.com
If I left any thing out-sorry, I need some sleep... hope I helped, later.
 

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unfortunately my turbo is getting tired. i blame it on not sticking to a particular brand of oil. initially i was using mobil1 5-50 then i tried shell 10-50 and then i tried pennzoil 15-50 and stayed that way. thats when the oil degraded quickly. i always flushed my oil when changing 2 a diff brand but as my situation now my lesson is to stick 2 one oil. just listen 2 your turbo too if it is howling on spool up and your pipes and clamps are good..then its your turbo pal.
 

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Turbo upgrade

Hey I need to upgrade my turbo. Should I go to knightturbos and get his t3-t04 upgrade for $850? Or does turbochargers.com have something? They are in Houston and so am I.

Also, what should I be paying to get the head street ported and the intake and exhaust match ported?

And should I change the MAF and possibly the exhaust manifold or is match porting it sufficient?
 
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