How i built my solid lifters for FE3

9519 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by bakmans, Sep 30, 2008

sandman323

Discussion Starter · Sep 28, 2008 (Edited)

So this is how i built them
1) first you need to remove the lifter from the head

2)then you take apart the lifter and it looks like this

3)then you take apart the inside that you have knocked out and remove the spring part thing , because you are not going to use them ever again

4)i have made some billet out of (silver steel ) because you can buy them in METER lengths and diameter sizes (9mm) then you cut them up into lengths of 14mm
(silver steel is a little bit harder than normal steel so it would not make crap inside your motor )

It then looks like this
so then the hard part starts with grinding them up to size so that the lifters wont make a noise
The clearances on them must be 0.1mm on the intake side and 0.2 on the exhaust side
Why it takes long to do is because you have to make them (the billets ) all the same size and then put them inside the head and check if the size is to big and then take it out again and gring it off by 0.1mm and then fit it again in the head and do the same thing over and over again until you have the clearances correct
The clip that is ont the part that pushes on the valve can be removed if you want to ,it makes it easy to assemble and take apart the lifter when you grind the billet to size

Hope this will help you to get it right i have done this before and never had any problems with my head

But to do it for the first time it might take you a whole week to do one head ,but as time goes by it will become more easy to get it done

The only problem with the solid lifters is that if you snap the timing belt it bends all the valves :tdown:

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fredio54

· #2 · Sep 28, 2008

Did you have an issue with them pumping up at high revs or something? If not, why did you do this? Generally the purpose for doing this is to get lighter lifters, and those steel inserts of yours look to be somewhat heavier than the oil that they replace. Also, if you didn't block off the oil passage, it will fill up and be even heavier than stock at which point you are behind the 8 ball. I'm not sure I understand why you have done this at all really.

sandman323 said:
The only problem with the solid lifters is that if you snap the timing belt it bends all the valves :tdown:

Firstly, the engine is non-interference in stock form, so you won't bend the valves even if you snap it even with solid ones.

Secondly, if you were to make it interference and snap the belt with HLAs in there, you would still bend the valves anyway. HLAs are as hard as steel (liquid is almost totally incompressible) and won't cushion the blow at all.

Fred.

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sandman323

Discussion Starter · #3 · Sep 28, 2008

The reason i did it is because i had the cams cut ,and i told the people that cut the cams i want 290deg cut on them
so they told me that i then must change the HLA`s to solid
and yes i dit close the hole on the side of the HLA so that the oil doesnt go in them to make them heavier

As for making the billet to be lighter what should i have used ?....this was an experiment to do this without the help of somebody that have already done this because here in SOUTH AFRICA the guy`s that are doing this as a job doesnt want to help you with things like this and they are axpencive

so if you have got any ideas of what i should use feel free to tell me what to use .

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fredio54

· #4 · Sep 28, 2008

How did you close the sides?

What is the new base circle diameter?

Probably what you used is good, if you needed more height for base circle reduction, then sure, you needed to do it provided it was a LOT of base circle reduction.

Fred.

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bakmans

· #5 · Sep 28, 2008

i did this once on a volkswagen golf gti 16v. because of the extreme cams he fitted.
but do i understand it right that you just grind them off? you dont use any kinda shimms ore something??? fiat and alfa use shimms that are verry small and we used them on the vw. worked great and almost looked the same

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sandman323

Discussion Starter · #6 · Sep 29, 2008

bakmans said:
i did this once on a volkswagen golf gti 16v. because of the extreme cams he fitted.
but do i understand it right that you just grind them off? you dont use any kinda shimms ore something??? fiat and alfa use shimms that are verry small and we used them on the vw. worked great and almost looked the same

so how and what lifters can i use from the golf if it is going to work ?
i stuck a brazing rod in it that goes in tight and used locktite to seal the hole on the side of the lifter

show me some pictures of the lifters that you guys think would work so that i can use shims to set the clearances .

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fredio54

· #7 · Sep 29, 2008

sandman323 said:
i stuck a brazing rod in it that goes in tight and used locktite to seal the hole on the side of the lifter

You're brave!

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sandman323

Discussion Starter · #8 · Sep 29, 2008

fredio54 said:
You're brave!

LOL yeah kinda
the motor is stil running fine and i dont have any crap with it so it doesnt bother me ........i drive it every day

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matt89glturbo

· #9 · Sep 30, 2008

fredio54 said:
You're brave!

lol

I concur

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jesiotrot

· #10 · Sep 30, 2008

Someone on the laser forums has also done a large write-up about this -

Fordlaser.com :: View topic - Technical discussion: Mazda 16V head cam regrinding

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bakmans

· #11 · Sep 30, 2008

i built this on a vw. i didnot use the lifters from the vw in the mazda.
but i mean how do you adjust your valve clearance? is that with grinding??? or can u use some kinda shims from another vehicle?

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