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Discussion Starter #1
Since there are virtually no threads pertaining to the coveted M-ED door sills, I thought I'd create my own "how-to" clean and install them. Mine weren't in the best of shape when I got them, but luckily they didn't have any deep gashes or anything more serious than just the typical scuffs and corrosion. I wanted them to look brand new (or at least very close). Here's a couple of before pics:





So as you can see, not perfect but not bad.

Here's what I used to make this happen:



I used 800 and 2000 grit sandpaper. If yours are a little rougher than mine, I'd recommend using 600 1000 then 2000 grits. I would also recommend wearing gloves since the fine metal particles get everywhere and will stain your skin and leave it smelling like raw metal (unless you're into that sort of thing).

First, I wet sanded all the roughest spots out first with the 800 grit (about 30 minutes per sill)

Second, I wet sanded the entire surface EVENLY and in ONE DIRECTION with the 800 grit. If you go in circles or up and down it leaves a haze so try hard to sand lengthwise along the brush-strokes of the metal. (About 30 minutes per sill)

Third, I wet sanded the entire surface evenly with the 2000 grit paper. This will give you a very noticeable shine and smooth the entire surface to near mirror finish. (About 30 minutes per sill)



Fourth, I dried them off very thoroughly with a soft towel and applied the MAAS metal polish creme. A little goes a long way here, so don't over-do it with the creme. I applied this in small areas to keep it consistent. If you try and cover the whole thing in the creme and then go back and polish it, the creme will have dried in places and will look messy. After this step, it's best not to touch them with your bare hands or with gloves. Use a towel to hold them to ensure the sills stay clean and smudge free.

Fifth, I wiped down the backs of the sills and the existing plastic ones with rubbing alcohol to ensure they were clean and free of debris so the 3M permanent stick tape will hold (it's clear thick tape covered in red plastic). I put the tape all along the top part but left the bottom part to be held by the screws.

Sixth, I placed the sills where they needed to be and pressed down HARD for several minutes. Believe it or not, pressing down hard for a little while will actually allow the tape to stick better. I then used a regular screw driver (non-power) to screw the wood screws into the existing plastic sills. This worked out very well and holds like a charm.



Seventh, I stood back to admire my beautiful new sills.

 

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wow! props man! those turned out sick!

Makes me want to go and buy some. good write-up
 

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Okay, when I tried to install mine over top of the factory ones it made them sit up too high and then they rubbed the bottom of the door and got scratched. I installed them using plastic clips that fit into the holes left from removing the plastic sills. They have plastic lips on them so that they pop into the square factory holes and a threaded hole in the center to put a screw into from the top to hold down the new stainless door sill.

I know I posted in both of your threads but I figured that since you made two posts about your door sill install, I'd post in both.
 

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Ya you are supposed to install them in place of the old ones, not over them. You have to get tabs for them to screw into as well.
 

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Also, the sills are supposed to have a thin plastic strip that runs all the way around the edge. It keeps the sharp edges of the sill from directly contacting the paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, these didn't come with anything but the actual sills themselves, so putting them on top of the old ones was really the way to go for me. Besides, I'm not going to ruin the old ones by cutting them to fill in the gap towards the rear of the sill. I put some duct tape under the doors where they would come into contact with the sills to protect against scrapes but it really didn't need it. There's a negligible gap between the door and the sill. If you've got the spacer piece and the piece Trent mentioned that protects the paint, then by all means install it without the old one.
 

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Great post fishkin! I haven't even thought of putting mine on yet because they're so badly scratched and was thinking of passing them off to a machine shop for polishing. This will help me out a lot, you've been karma'd.

I think this should be copied into the project section for sure. :tup:
 
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