Mazda MX-6 Forum banner

1 - 2 of 2 Posts

Super Moderator
2,577 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

This is a general How To Paint for people who want to do their Mud Flaps, LSI Pods, Skirts etc. I've pasted picture at the very bottom of what I did in my build thread for the LSI Pods to give you an idea of the results.

You can vary these steps and materials, just keep in mind the dry/cure times and be patient!

This should cover what you need :)

These instructions are more timed with fair to good condition items that don't need bondo or crazy sanding.

Give yourself a couple of days to do this at it goes in phases


Green masking tape, can of colour coded paint (enamel base), Krylon Semi Glossy Black paint (or shop recommend) 2K ClearCoat (2K clear coat: Spraymax) Primer hand can gun sprayer; 400 grit sand paper - Breathing filter!!!!

I would suggest buying your car can paint from an actual painting store. Make sure you get one with a nice spray nozzle. You will find that the enamel spray is going to be a tad darker than the rest of the car, but being that it is low down, it blends nice.

As for the clear-coat, that is your choice 1k or 2K. I absolutely swear by the 2K (brand mentioned above) stuff I use. Zero sanding, hardest grade and UV protection - and the nozzle lays down a spray pattern that doesn't give the orange peel texture - just like you saw on my LSI Pods. Very Very smooth and glossy.

I don't know if you plan to spray the black portion ( I would - and included it in final phase)

Do all this work indoors if you can!

General advice - I am suggesting up to a week for all the steps combined to get the maximum results. You can vary the cure times for paint and clear if you live in hotter climates and let these back outside in the sun. I would not recommend to apply clear-coat the same day you paint, it won't have cured enough and you will get a rippling effect if the paint hasn't dried by the the time you clear-coat.

Milage will vary on results if you are not patient.

Phase 1: Prepping

- Sunlight dish soap to wash/strip dirt and grease
- Rinse
- wet sand with 400 grit just enough to clean the area of any small imperfections, primer will take care of the rest
- Once you've sanded, soap/rinse/wash
- Hair dryer is a bonus to expedite dry-times
- Make sure flaps are bone dry before you spray
- Don't tape off anything, spray primer on all the surfaces
- Shake the hell out of the primer can for 2 min
- Attach spray hand gun
- ~6 inches away put down one sweep of primer, let dry for 5 minutes
- put down two more sweeps of primer, dry time 5 each
- Use hair dryer, aim and dry for 30 minutes

Phase II - Painting

- Tape off the black area of the mud guard
- Attach spray hand gun
- Shake the hell out of the car coloured spray can
- Practice spray on cardboard, make sure it is good
- Do initial dusting of target area, let dry for 10
- Shake can for 10 seconds for each dry cycle before you spray again
- 6 " away, 3 sweeping passes, 15 minutes dry time per 3 sweeps
- Keep doing sweeps until satisfied ( Can use hair dryer to expedite drying
- Once satisfied with painting, leave to dry/breath for up to 3 days ( Seriously - clear-coat can have a bad reaction on paint that hasn't dried well)
- If you do your painting right, you will not need to wet sand it down (results are subject to the type of spray nozzle you got with the can

Phase II.5 Blacking the black

- since these mud guards have black on them it is at your discretion to clear-coat after using the krylon black
- Tape off the car colour panted area (this should have been drying for 2-3 days before you do this phase
- Attach spray hand gun
- do three sweeping passes of the black : 15 minutes dry time per passes
- let dry for 2-3 days
- Then you can proceed to clear-coat everything.

Phase III - Clear-coating

- Very similar to the painting phase
- wear breathing mask, this stuff sucks
- Attach spray hand gun
- shake the bajeebers out of the can (read the instructions)
- This clear-coat is only good for 24 hours once activated
- 3 sweeping passes 6 inches away, let cure for 3 minutes
- repeat approx. 3 times - 3 minutes cure for each set.
- 1 Hour dry for non tackiness
- 2 Hours dry to touch/handle
- let breath for 3 days then mount
- The 2K brand I've mentioned gives incredible glossy looks. Zero sanding was needed for me.

Phase I Example of LSI Pods

Origonal Condition

Sanded and Primed

Sample Spray Can Hand Gun

Phase II

Phase III - Clear-coated and mounted

1 - 2 of 2 Posts