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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. I'm a newbie. We just got a 1990 MX6 for my son from a friend of ours. It needs new brakes. I bought new rotors and a haynes manual, but it says to take off the whole hub and rotor as an assembly and then bring it to the dealer for further work. Is it really that hard to remove rotor from hub? Does the hub have to be removed with the rotor? If anyone can tell me how or what to do to get the rotors off I would appreciate it.

Thanks.

Bill
 
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The haynes manual is incorrect. A lot of the information in that manual is towards the GC 626 ('84-'87) and not the GD MX-6/626 ('88-'92)

You'll need to remove your wheel, and then remove the caliper off the rotor, depending on age, you may or may not have screws on the rotor holding it on, if you do, remove them.

Then just hit the rotor a few times with hammer to pop it off the hub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Legal Bill said:
Hi. I'm a newbie. We just got a 1990 MX6 for my son from a friend of ours. It needs new brakes. I bought new rotors and a haynes manual, but it says to take off the whole hub and rotor as an assembly and then bring it to the dealer for further work. Is it really that hard to remove rotor from hub? Does the hub have to be removed with the rotor? If anyone can tell me how or what to do to get the rotors off I would appreciate it.

Thanks.

Bill
Thanks Flyswat. ours must be rusted on pretty badly as we cannot seem to bang it off. I'll go put the hub nut back on and then try again. Thank you so much for the prompt advice.

Bill
 

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Sometimes the cylinder will be a little sticky and not retract making it hard to come off.
 

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^yep. Basically all you can do is pry it off. Remember to remove the caliper and caliper braket as an assembly. it's much easier that way. then just hang it up with some wire on the coil spring. Another important thing to remember is when working on the rear brakes, you must twist and push the piston in the caliper to get it to retract to install new pads, don't just clamp it with a C clamp like the fronts, you have to twist and push. I used a pair of needle nosed pliers, worked good for me.
 

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Re: Re: How to remove front rotors?

Legal Bill said:
Thanks Flyswat. ours must be rusted on pretty badly as we cannot seem to bang it off.
The notorious elements of rust and heat will do that. But, use some penetrating oil to help loosen it up, then use Flyswat's method of pulling it off. Maybe use a heavier hammer !
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Something is seriously wrong. I have now tried everything I can think of. Sledge hammer, wheel puller, torch for heat. The rotor will not seperate from the steering knuckle/hub. I re-read the manual and decided to try to pull the entire assembly. All the suspension components came apart ok, but now the axle will not come out of the transaxle. Manual says to pry it out with a pinch bar. I get no movement at all. Went back to the hub to see if I could pull the rotor and hub/knuckle assembly from the axle shaft with a wheel puller now tht the entire assembly was disconnected. Again, no movement.

Just to be clear, I am working on the front end of a 1990 car. The front rotors did have two grub screws which came out without too much trouble.

Any other ideas? I'd be happy to get the axle out of the transaxle and just take the whole thing to a machine shop where they can use a hydraulic press to seperate everything.

Thanks again.

Bill
 

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Find some long bolts that have the same thread pitch as the screws you removed and put them in there. Then just wrench them down. It should pop it free eventually. That is the method I use if mine don't want to come off.
The axle on the drivers' side can be a b*tch to get off. The passengers' side should be easy. You do not need to remove the axle though to pull the spindle off, just the axle nut. There should be enough play in the spindle with everything disconnected to remove the axle from it and hang it in place with some rope to the coil spring.
I don't know where you are located, but I am sure either there is someone close enough to you who is willing to help OR you can put everything back on the car and drive it to a shop.
 

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Mine were rusted on pretty good. Make sure you remove the retaining screws from the rotor first (there are 2). Then spray with penetrating lubricant (back side of rotor & the on the lugs). If you're not reusing the rotors you can use a small sledge to remove it. Bang from behind (inside the wheel) then move, bang, move. Do this in a circle around the rotor and it will slowly creep off until it finally comes free. It took me about 5 or so minutes of hammering per rotor to get them off so, don't give up.

BTW. check out my site.
 

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Legal Bill said:
Something is seriously wrong. I have now tried everything I can think of. Sledge hammer, wheel puller, torch for heat. The rotor will not seperate from the steering knuckle/hub.
I get no movement at all. Again, no movement.
It appears as though you are to the point of no return, a DIY'ers nightmare ! I feel your pain..........
Hopefully you have not created yourself extra work and problems. Luckily you don't have to pay yourself an hourly wage, ha...hah !
At this point, you may want to consider buying a used shaft and hub at a salvage yard. I'm surprised you didn't get a cutting torch or a Sawzall after that blasted thing ! TNT........dynomite! WTF !
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What a nightmare this was. I had to use the cutting torch to heat the edge of the rotor where the hub mates up to it. Then I beat the crap out of it, finally the rotors came off. Since the car also appears to need ball joints and at least one CV joint I continued on and pulled the CV joints and the lower control arms.

Driver's side CV was a real pain until I got the bright idea of asking my wife to help. I had her push against a pry bar that I dropped down from above between the master cylinder and the intake hose. From there the bar just squeezed in between the tranny casing and the big end of the joint. It had just enough contact to hold in place while she pushed against the bar. I then crawled under the car pryed at it from the bottom. One solid tap and out it came. Thought I'd share that with the rest of you. Passenger's side came right off, no trouble at all (after I burnt off the rotor).

Anyway, now I have two lower control arms and two CV/hub spindle assemblies and all the new parts, but I need to find a machine shop or a garage where they know what they are doing to press out the old stuff and fit the new.

Oh, one more question. What is the story with the front hubs? The local Auto Palace says the front wheel bearings are unavailable. Is this a dealer item? Can the bearings in the front hubs be removed? Ok, Ok, that's three questions.

Thanks again everyone.

Bill
 

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just for future refrence, the rotor has an extra hole that is threaded and fits the same size thread as the two screws that hold it on. put one of those screws in that extra hole and tighted it up as hard as u can, it will push the rotor off of the hub.
 

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el norm said:
just for future refrence, the rotor has an extra hole that is threaded and fits the same size thread as the two screws that hold it on. put one of those screws in that extra hole and tighted it up as hard as u can, it will push the rotor off of the hub.
Becareful, this may get it off, but sometimes can flaten the tip of the bolt and damage the treads. I would get an extra bolt if you decide this is the way to do it for your instance.
 

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Legal Bill said:
Hi. I'm a newbie. We just got a 1990 MX6 for my son from a friend of ours. It needs new brakes.

Hey Legal Bill, don't fret about the brake job geting tough. It's all good "DIY"er training, plus the added bonus of knowing that the car's front end will be much safer and drive better with the newly rebuilt parts. Good peace of mind for your son and you.

Sometimes when you're in the general work vicinity of an afternoon project on older cars, alot of other worn parts tend to jump out at you. While it can be a pain at the time, chances are down the road, you'd be working on something else in the same area.

It's always best to evaluate the front end parts for wear, you're better off rebuilding it all at once if you can afford it. Also check the struts and top mounts, if these haven't been recently replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: Re: How to remove front rotors?

johniebgoode said:
Hey Legal Bill, don't fret about the brake job geting tough. It's all good "DIY"er training, plus the added bonus of knowing that the car's front end will be much safer and drive better with the newly rebuilt parts. Good peace of mind for your son and you.

Sometimes when you're in the general work vicinity of an afternoon project on older cars, alot of other worn parts tend to jump out at you. While it can be a pain at the time, chances are down the road, you'd be working on something else in the same area.

It's always best to evaluate the front end parts for wear, you're better off rebuilding it all at once if you can afford it. Also check the struts and top mounts, if these haven't been recently replaced.
I'm trying to ignore the struts right now. I'm waiting to see if the machine shop can seperate the hubs and knuckles from the cv joints. If not, I'll need the money for used hubs and knuckles or (gulp) new hubs and knuckles at Mazda!
 

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Legal Bill said:
Oh, one more question. What is the story with the front hubs? The local Auto Palace says the front wheel bearings are unavailable. Is this a dealer item? Can the bearings in the front hubs be removed?
The front wheel bearings should be available from local parts stores. Call around. However, they're about the same price at the dealer, so you might want to shop there. You'll need the rubber dust seal as well.

The front wheel bearings on these cars are a pain. The assembly (hub/bearing/knuckle) must be separated and pressed together using a press adapter that the Mazda dealer has. You will need either the dealer with their press adapter or an experienced machine shop to assemble/dissasemble the hub/bearing/knuckle for you. The bearings can be removed but many machine shops won't do it because the hub can be damaged in the process.

What most people do is get used entire hub/bearing/knuckle assemblies from mazdarecycling.com or a junkyard and just swap those in instead of going through the pain of getting the stuff pressed together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
magik8 said:
The front wheel bearings should be available from local parts stores. Call around. However, they're about the same price at the dealer, so you might want to shop there. You'll need the rubber dust seal as well.

The front wheel bearings on these cars are a pain. The assembly (hub/bearing/knuckle) must be separated and pressed together using a press adapter that the Mazda dealer has. You will need either the dealer with their press adapter or an experienced machine shop to assemble/dissasemble the hub/bearing/knuckle for you. The bearings can be removed but many machine shops won't do it because the hub can be damaged in the process.

What most people do is get used entire hub/bearing/knuckle assemblies from mazdarecycling.com or a junkyard and just swap those in instead of going through the pain of getting the stuff pressed together.
Thanks for this info. Is the adapter needed to drive out the CV joint shaft? That is what the machine shop is trying to do for me now. I called the Mazda service department this morning and asked if they would do press service on an MX6... before I could even finish the sentence, the guy barks that they don't do that and I should go to a machine shop.
 

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drsjr1980 said:
Becareful, this may get it off, but sometimes can flaten the tip of the bolt and damage the treads. I would get an extra bolt if you decide this is the way to do it for your instance.
lol yeah my method is rather crude.... compared to ... "Something is seriously wrong. I have now tried everything I can think of. Sledge hammer, wheel puller, torch for heat."

i think those little screws are about $1.50 for a 8 or 10 pack... now where is that sledge hammer!!!
 

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No, that way works fine. But if you do tighten it really hard, it could damage the threads so the bolt may not even come out. That's why I said be careful, sometimes this may be the best way, i've had to do it before on another car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
el norm said:
lol yeah my method is rather crude.... compared to ... "Something is seriously wrong. I have now tried everything I can think of. Sledge hammer, wheel puller, torch for heat."

i think those little screws are about $1.50 for a 8 or 10 pack... now where is that sledge hammer!!!
Actually, I tried your method very early on in the process. I guess you had to be there to understand. When I was done removing the rotors, there was about a half pound of rust on the floor from the area between the hub and the rotor. The screw in the threaded hole trick did nothing and I gave up on that approach early on. But thanks anyway.
 
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