Mazda MX-6 Forum banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,480 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had all the pics, so I figured id do something with them :)

Materials needed

A set of scrap/cheap/extra headlights
A set of projectors (halogen, xenon, or bi-xenon)
8 - 3.5 in machine screws
32 Or however many nuts you need
Metal Repair tape
Epoxy
JB weld
Plexiglas/Lexan/GTS covers
Bezel (pipe flange)
Shorud (this is up to you)
Paint
All kinds of miscellanious everyday [shizzle]
Dremel (need this for sure)

Ok, so if your reading this your getting serious about your lighting.


First you need get some stock headlights, take the metal snaps off, and put them in the oven @ 225 for 5-7 mins. (I did them one at a time)





Once you get them apart clean that old sealant off. I used an Exacto knife. And take out the metal bracket designed around the old 9004 slot. Its 2 screws.




Then you can chose to start working on either the lens or the housing. I will show separate steps for each. Personally I like to start working on the housing because it is the most fragile part and you don’t want to do the lens if you mess the housing up. In the end I was doing both things at the same time. I also built one light from start to finish before tackling the second because I wanted to make sure they worked out.


So now you need to make a pattern out of cardboard that has the corners corresponding with the mounting holes on the projector. You can do this by putting the screws in the projector mount holes, then put a nut on. Then set the projector on the cardboard so it is supported by the nuts and mark where the screws are touching the cardboard.





Then you need to put the cardboard in the headlight so That you can mark the corners of the cardboard (mount holes) I also made a little hole in the center of the cardboard to help me align It up with the OEM 9004 hole.



Then you have the holes marked you can take the cardboard out and drill the mounting holes.

You will use 3 1/2in machine screws (these will be trimmed later)

Then after the holes are drilled you can start to cut out a circle inside of the mounting holes. You will need to decided weather to mount from the front of the housing or rear. If you have a small projector you can probably mount in inside, but since I was using a Bi-xenon (larger than single xenon projector) I had to mount from the rear. Just keep trimming until the projector fits loosely in there. I also had to kind make a weird shape at the bottom and top to get it to fit right and to acomodate the power box for the bi-xenon solenoid








Shroud = Functional (blocks light)

Bezel = Finishing appearance piece

Next thing to do for the housing is to fabricate a shroud and bezel. The shroud is going to depend on a lot of things including how you mounted the projector, size of the projector, and space available to work with. Since I mounted mine from the rear I was able to get away with a flat shroud. If I would have use single xenon projector (and mounted from the inside of housing) then I would need to use something conical to cover everything up.


Now if you are this far you can probably start to stray form this how to because for the shroud it’s all up to you to figure out something. Every shroud is different. People have used small dog bowls, stove top liners, pop cans, home lighting bezels, cut up Nestea bottles ect.

Anyways I made a shroud out of plexi (after making a cardboard template)




For the bezel a single xenon projector can use standard pipe flange. This can be bought at any hardware store and comes in chrome J Since my bi-xenon has a 3 in lens instead of 2.5 I had to use a dremel to widen the inside diameter of the bezel. I also had to trim the back of the bezel to get it to sit flat.

You can see the bezel above, but here is another example of a bezel (projector taken apart)



Now you have the Housing, mounted projector, shroud and bezel. Paint everything (preferably black). Black helps stop extra escaping light from being deflected above the cutoff. Some people choose to leave the housing chrome as long as there is no leakage light to be reflected. Leaving the Housing chrome also helps you achieve a more OEM look. I had to paint my housings because when I was fitting the shroud everything got scratched up.

Heres pic of everything painted black


Now for the lens. I tried sanding the fluted lens, but it did not turn out as well as I would have liked. This is a very long, painstaking, process, but I t can be completed, and still have good output.

Heres as far as i got







Since it did not work out for me (distorted beam pattern) I decided that I had to come up with another solution. I chose to work with Plexiglas, but you can use lexan or whatever else (GTS covers).

Now I cut out the front of the lens with a dremel, and clean up all the rough edges. I then painted the inside of the lens so I don’t have to try to do that after I put the Plexiglas cover on.

Since I had a set of headlights that didn’t work out I had an extra set of lens’ to make a fiberglass mold out of. I covered this mold in aluminum foil and cooked it in the oven at 350 for about an hour. (it took me 8 tries to get 2 good pieces) I experimented with all different temps, and different types of foil, but I found that 350 and non-stick foil works the best.

Be sure to make relief cuts in the Plexiglas so it can form around the mold a little bit.



Now that you have the cut up lens and a partially molded piece of Plexiglas you can get the torch out and start to bend the rest of the extra Plexiglas around the edges. After you have 2 tabs bent around I put in 2 tiny screws with a nut to hold the Plexiglas to the headlight. This helps you to hold the Plexiglas in place while you are finishing molding the Plexiglas around the lens.

After it’s all shaped correctly I literally melted the Plexiglas edges to the OEM housing.



At this point you are going to want to tape the front of the Plexiglas off so you don’t get epoxy or scratches on it while in the molding process.



I then used epoxy and ------- . This makes the epoxy so it is thick and doesn’t run as much. (Basically making a plastic filler) You can use regular 5 min epoxy or Plastic Welder. I used both, but the plastic welder hardens in 4 min so there’s not much time to work with, and since it cures so fast it gets brittle. I used the 5 min because its easier to work with and work better for something the top of the light out. You will need about 4-5 tubes of this epoxy.





After you have some parts of the Plexiglas epoxied to the OEM lens then you can take those 2 small screws out. Everything should stay in place now.

Then finish epoxying the lens up.

I had to put 5 or more layers on the top of the light and sand after each layer to get it to look flat and OEM. You can barely tell that it is Plexiglas molded to the lens…. I didn’t do this on the sides or bottom of the light because they are hidden when they are installed.

Nice and smooth like this :)



Now everything should be painted. Put the shroud and bezel on (I used hot glue to secure them)

I recommend checking the aiming before you seal everything up. (I checked aiming over 10 times throughout the whole process)

Then you can seal the OEM/Plexiglas lens to the OEM housing by using butyl rubber. I got butyl windshield sealant from NAPA.

Then after you check the aiming you can trim the machine screws down, put locktight on the nuts, and prepare to seal the back of the housing. I used metal repair tape and JB weld to seal up the rear of the housing.

Be sure not to use silicon at all to seal anything, as the fumes given off by it can damage the chrome on the projector bowl.

And that’s all I can think of for now..

If you have any questions you can pm me.

Good luck

Nate
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,480 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
PS - I have a few pics to add and a few things to fix before this gets copied or moved.

Thanks
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top