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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have seen bits and pieces of this all over, but never all together, like, grounding the STI, or what it is, and adjusting the crank/cam timing if needed, and so on, so here you go:

Iif you have a turbo, yes, you need to ground the green sti connector to kill the computer advance. this is located near the driver's side strut mount. leave it connected the whole time. if you like to see why, take it off and check out the mark with the timing light. it bounces all over b/c the computer is adjusting automatically. keep it grounded during the whole procedure.


If you do not know WHERE or WHAT the green STI is, here you go, this is courtesy SixSick6:http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125769

If no turbo, you need to disconnect the vaccuum advance. Same reason.
  1. Warm up engine to normal operating temperature.
  2. Turn all electric loads OFF.
  3. Connect a tachometer and a timing light to the engine
Check that the timing mark (yellow) on the crankshaft pulley and the mark on the timing belt cover are aligned.
Ignition Timing: Turbo models 9°(with test connector grounded)
Non-turbo models 6°(with vacuum hoses disconnected and grounded)
  1. If the mark is not aligned, loosen the distributor lock bolt, and turn distributor housing to make the adjustment.
  2. Reconnect the vacuum hoses, or disconnect the jumper wire from the test connector.
  3. Tighten the distributor lock bolt to specified torque.
The light needs to be connected to the number one spark plug. This is the one alll the way to the left, next to the timing belt.

Take off the timing belt cover, the bottom part should have the timing marks.
You want the mark on the crankshaft to be at 9 degrees BTDC if tbo, 6 if not.

If it is not, you use the distributor to adjust it. Loosen up the 2 bolts that hold it in place. Rotate it until the mark lines up. Once set, tighten it down.
Make sure you disconnect the green one-pin sti tho, when done!

Additionally, if you think your cam and crank are off (say at 2 degrees instead of 1, like if the belt slipped a tooth) then also do this (courtesy SickSix6):

Make sure your cam and crank are aligned, cam has an arrow for #1 on the cam sprocket and lines up with an arrow on the bracket. The crank pulley has a notch which will line up with an straight line on the oil pump. Or you can take the upper cover off, take your spark plugs out and rotate clockwise until you hit #1 on the cam, then look down and your crank notch should be at TDC (0).

If you give me karma for this, also toss some to SixSick6!!! :wave:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
tbo...turbo...a common mnemonic used on the site, but it is now changed in the post.
 

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hah i think you're the only one that uses 'tbo' best to extend your fingers twice more and spell the full work.

oh yea and post your how to's in the projects/faq section so they dont fade away :tup:

edit: and now i fully understand his handle, i always thought it was kinda weird! tbogt :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
meh, i figure the mods will move them whereever they want them to be
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Anyone know if we can move our own threads?
 

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You can't. PM the mod of this forum (not scooby or imagoonmx6, but rather the mod of this specific forum) and ask them to move it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Who is the moderator of this forum?? Is it still Panther37, even though he moved to HI?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i dunno, maybe he was just busy or something? so is it him? glad to see ur still alive after ur trip to lynn!
 

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You can see who the moderator of a forum is on the main page of the site or at the bottom of each individual forum's index.

This forum has 4 moderators.

And yes, I survived Lynn, wasn't as bad as I expected though numerous street signs were missing so that made the trip a little more time consuming.
 

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This thread needs pict0rs:





Clean your pulley off so you can clearly see the timing hash:



Then follow it up with white paint, yellow paint, or simple white-out:



Like so:



You're also going to want to use a special service tool when you install the timing belt. This stops the crank from rotating, and yes it will rotate. The crank moving a fraction of an inch is enough to offset the entire assembly.

You want the crankshaft at TDC when you install the timing belt. Otherwise you'll see that your crank will rotate and your timing WILL be off.



This is an easy way to lock it in place. The crankshaft sprocket has a notch which lines up with the notch on the oil pump. When you're satisifed that it is at TDC, lock it in place so it won't move and confirm with your lower timing cover:



Better yet use a degree wheel and a lighted probe to check piston placement as well as valve seating at #1:



You can make a probe yourself using an ordinary LED, some wire, and a few batteries on a switch. They work great for small areas and at work, we use them to look up peoples A-Holes -wo0t!:D

 

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:shrug:
hah i think you're the only one that uses 'tbo' best to extend your fingers twice more and spell the full work.

oh yea and post your how to's in the projects/faq section so they dont fade away :tup:

edit: and now i fully understand his handle, i always thought it was kinda weird! tbogt :lol:
write back
 

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Help with Timing

I'm having trouble doing the timing on my 6.

My water pump went out so I replaced it, and now i'm having trouble with the timing. The car ran rough-mildly rough when I started it and let it run for about 15-20seconds before I shut it down. Tell me where I'm going wrong because this doesn't make sense...

The arrow at #1 is lined up on the cam.
The notch in the crank gear is lined up with the straight line on the oil pump.
The rotor, when the cam gear is lined up, is at the spot on the cap for cyl 1 .
I pulled the spark plug on cyl 1 and the piston is at the top.

I then turned the engine 2 revolutions and both marks ended up back In the same position, that is aligned with their corresponding marks.

I did some snooping around and found that my rotor was hitting the cap and was all fucked up. (must not have pushed it on all the way oops) So I ran out and replaced those. Wiring order I triple checked.

So why is it not running normal. When I removed the water pump and pulleys I made sure not to more the crank or camshaft after they were aligned. Is it possible for it to be off after just replacing the belt and not moving the either of the shafts?

I also have a zombie chipped ecu, do I have to switch back to my stock one to set this for some reason?
 
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