Mazda MX-6 Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

Premium Member
1,313 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Complete PART 1 & PART 2: 2.5 v6 Transmission Swap

BY: Chunchoy14(Chunchoy45 on

93-97 Mazda Mx6/626 or Ford Probe V6 2.5L KL03 Automatic to Manual Transmission Conversion write up:

Swap parts needed:
1) Manual Transmission (only v6 and must be 93-97 mx6/probe/626)- I got a 95 v6 and am swapping a 95 mtx tranny in
2) Flywheel (KLO3 23 LBS)- I'm using (9 LBS Fidanza Flywheel)
3) Clutch- (I'm using a Clutchmasters Stage III)
4) Throwout bearing (release bearing)
5) Pilot bearing
6) Clutch master cylinder
7) Clutch slave cylinder
8) Clutch hydraulic tube and hose- i replaced hose with rr-racing stainless steel clutch line)
9) MTX halfshaft (Driver's side and passenger side)- Some believe you only need driver's but i replaced both with a new one anyways)
10) MTX Intermediate Shaft with Carrier bearing(the bearing should be one the intermediate shaft)(93 has 3 hole mount, 95 has 2 hole mount get the appropriate year)
11) Shift Linkage and rod
12) Shifter- I used a pacesetter short throw shifter
13) Clutch pedal assembly
14) Brake pedal assembly
15) MTX Transmission mount(I replaced all 3)
16) MTX (4cyl or 6cyl will work)Chassis bracket for top side transmission mount
17) Brake master cylinder (whole master cylinder not required---just reservoir from mtx is required because
the reservoit has an extra port for the clutch master cylinder)
18) New MTX axle seals
19) MTX starter
20) Tranny gear oil ( Must be GL-4)Redline recommended
21) 2 cotter pins
22) (drivers side chassis to upper tranny mount) bracket
23) Mtx tranny to crossmember rubber isolator

Cost: Parts= ~1300(swap parts and aftermarket swap parts)
Labor= Free

Keep in mind, you can replace some other parts with new parts or aftermarket parts while you swap. I replaced the stock disc rotors with KVR rotors and Axxis pads, RR-racing poly engine mount, arospeed coilovers, tokico illuminas, new fuel filter, various swap parts like fidanza flywheel, clutchmasters III, pacesetter sts, rr-racing clutch line.

Tools needed ( This is basically all u need, others not included are just extras u could use):
1) 10 mm socket
2) 12 mm socket
3) 14 mm socket
4) 17mm socket
5) 32 mm socket (Just for the axle nut)
6) 1 short flathead screwdriver and 1 stron long flathead screwdriver
7) Impact wrench (You'll feel sorry if you don't have one)
8) Extensions(short,medium, and long)
9) Shoplight
10) Engine jacks (2 needed-one for engine support and one for tranny lowering(unless you purchase a
tranny jack)
12) Hammer (heavy duty one)
13) Breaker bar
14) Mechanics wire( to hold up caliper)
15) Needle nose pliers
16) Regular pliers
17) 1/2, 1/4, and 3/8inch socket wrenches (Get a really long one,a medium one,and tiny short one(for tight fit
18) 1/2 to 3/8 adapter and 3/8 to 1/4 adapter
19) Can of WD40
20) Car ramp(for rear)
21) 4 jack stands (2 for front supports, 2 for back up right behind the 2 supports
22) 2x4 or 4x4 piece of wood (for jack)
23) 17m box wrench
24) 14mm box wrench
25) Hub puller (optional, it'll make it easier)
26) Phillips screwdriver
27) Wiring schematics for Automatic and Manual Transmission
28) Haynes, Chiltons, and Shop Manual
29) Flywheel/Flexplate holding tool
30) Snap ring tool for install of short shifter.

Premium Member
1,313 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Part 1: Taking out Automatic Transmission

Day 1:
- Swap parts almost complete. Still need: Clutch, top driver's side tranny mount, Pass. Halfshaft, Axle Seal, Starter.
- Tools organized and sorted
- Back up onto car ramp (the rear wheels)
- Relieve fuel pressure(green fuse in fuse box)
- Jack up the front ( so its parallel to the floor with the rear)
- Put jack stands on the side supports
- Put 2nd set of jack stands behind the ones supporting the car for safety) and also put extra wheels under car for safety
- Support motor with engine hoist,jack, or tie bar on top
- Took out intake assembly(elbow,iat,filter,hose)
- Took out charcoal canister (2 hoses top 1 hose on bottom, 2 bolts for bracket)
- Took out cruise control(2 bolts,10mm)
- Took out Battery tray(3 10mm bolts) and battery
- Fuel filter (2 bolts 10mm)(2 hoses,top and bottom)---replace with new one
- Took off wheels both sides
- Took off or moved away Driver's side:
-Tie Rod (1 17mm bolt with cotter pin inserted{remove pin first,new cotter pin needed later} )
- Lower control arm (1 bolt and 1 nut each side, both 17mm)
- Axle Nut (32 mm, use impact wrench)
- Push out driver's side axle from hub(use hub puller or hammer)
- Then remove axle from tranny (use big screw driver or breaker bar to pull out)
- Remove the all splash guards
- Remove crossmember (17mm, 3 on each side,6 total)
- Remove transverse member(17mm 5-6 bolts) and front engine/tranny mount(2 bolts either 14 or 17mm)--- put in rr-racing poly engine mount
- Disconnect all wiring harnesses from the top(all electrical is on top)
- Disconnect the cable from gear selector on tranny
- Take off starter(3 bolts, 14mm, and 2 wires)
- Take off bolts that mount tranny to engine(4 on top, 3 on bottom, 17mm)
- Drain all atx fluid
- Disconnect all atx fluid lines
TMRW- take off pass axle and intermediate shaft
- rear engine/tranny mount
- top driver's side tranny mount
- Lower tranny!!!!!

Day 2:
-Pass Tie rod( 17mm and pin)
-Took off lower control arm (14mm bolt and nut)
- Axle Nut(32 mm, use impact wrench)
- Remove pass. side axle from hub( use hammer or hub puller. If stuck like me, take the whole hub and axle off car and use drill press at a machine shop,luckily my friend has one at his shop)
- 2 bolts(14mm) to take off intermediate shaft(shaft is between the tranny and pass. side axle)
- Take off rear engine/tranny mount( 4 bolts 17mm socket plus extensions)
- Support engine with jack plus 2x4 onto oil pan
- Tranny ready to drop after top driver's side tranny mount
- Support Tranny with engine jack or tranny jack
- Move everything from under the car
- 3 bolts on top driver's tranny mount
- Danger!!!make sure tranny is stable and won't tilt(very dangerous and heavy)
- Make sure all wire harness and bolts disconnected
- Lower 3-4 inches. Check again for harnesses,hoses, and bolts and make sure tranny is stable
- Now use a breaker bar and pry the tranny from the engine. The tranny might be laying on top of the torque converter so you'll have to tilt engine a bit to slide the tranny out.
-Lower tranny slowly all the way.
- Tranny is out!!!! and move the slushbox out from the car
- Clean flooor(torque converter oil and tranny oil spills and drips)
- Take off torque converter ( 4 bolts 14 mm)
- Take off flexplate (8 14mm bolts)
- Stopped and analyze the wiring harnesses with the wiring schematics
- Also examine tranny swap parts and compare

PART 1 is finished. Next section is installment of the Manual Transmission and other swap parts.
Disclamer: I am not responsible for any damages to you and/or your vehicle. This write-up is only intended
as general advice. Follow at your own risk.

Premium Member
1,313 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Part 2: Starting the Manual Transmission Swap

Brake and clutch master cylinder and pedals
-Take off Brake master cylinder.(2 12mm bolts,1 12mm bolt for cruise control wire bracket, 1 wire harness)
-2(w/abs) or 3 (w/o abs) hydraulic lines on brake master cylinder (12mm use a box wrench)
-Take reservoir off master cylinder (1 screw and pull it off)
-Put on mtx reservoir on master cylinder. Reattach bolts and harness.
-Reattach brake lines.
-Get inside car. Take off center console, panel around shifter, the plastic panel under steering wheel (2 screws, 3-4 clips, and 2 side plastic pieces in door hinge area). Be sure to take off driver’s seat too. It’s preparation for the shifter and pedal installation. You’ll need more space to work when doing the pedals. Your back will be sore after doing this.
-Take off ATX brake pedal assembly. (7 12mm bolts, 2 10mm bolts, 1 mm nut, 1 wiring harness and 1 clip for cable, and 1 cotter pin for brake booster)
-Take off black plastic casing around the steering wheel. 3-4 screws.
-Drop the steering column down and off to the right(2 12mm bolts on each side.)
-Pull out brake pedal assembly.
-Fit in clutch pedal assembly (***don’t install mtx brake pedal assembly first because you can’t fit the clutch pedal in after that. I learned the hard way and had to reinstall it again****)
-go outside car and under hood, take off the white plastic grommet on driver’s side( this is the hole to mount the clutch master cylinder.
-Fit the clutch master cylinder in hole. 1 person holds that in, while the other person goes inside car to bolt up the clutch pedal assembly against the clutch master cylinder on the other side. (2 12mm bolts, 1 pin for the hydraulic pin thing)
-Install mtx brake pedal assembly.(7 12mm bolts, 210mm bolts, 1 mm nut, 1 clip for cable, 1 cotter pin for brake booster pin) *somebody should be under the hood to push the brake booster against the firewall so the other person can install the brake pedal assembly*
-Look for 2 wiring harnesses under there. Match up the harness to brake pedal harness and the clutch wiring harness to the right harness. Both should plug in easily.
-Clutch pedal is supposed to plop to the floor, (more info on that later)
-reinstall the steering column. Don’t install black panel around steering wheel. You will need to do something later.

Mtx tranny installation:
-Mount flywheel( where the flexplate and torque converter used to be) 8 14 mm bolts
-Before mounting flywheel, put the pilot bearing in the middle of flywheel hole. Be sure to add high temp grease to it.
-Use clutch alignment tool, stick it into clutch disc, then hold the tool and push the clutch disc against the flywheel. Once on, the clutch alignment tool should be secure(won’t shake around.
-Bolt on the pressure plate onto flywheel.(6 12mm bolts)
-Take off clutch alignment tool
-Install the Top mtx mount bracket onto chassis. The bracket that is suppose to hold the top driver’s side tranny mount. This is a mtx part, the atx one is different. Remove the atx one.
-Bolt up the mtx tranny 4 bolts on top, 3 for dust shield on bottom, 2-3 bolts on engine side.
-Rear tranny/engine mount. 3 17mm.
-Bolt on mtx starter, 3 14mm bolts.
-Wire up starter, Positive and negative ground wire from engine wiring harness(used to connect to atx starter.
-Mount top driver’s side mtx tranny mount to chassis bracket. 1 17mm bolt and nut.
-Jack up the mtx tranny until it fits into the tranny mount holes.
- Bolt on tranny mount to tranny – 3 17mm bolts w/thick gold washer(you will need 1 extra 17mm bolt because the atx tranny mount has 2 while the mtx tranny requires 3 bolts) - 2 17mm nuts and use black thinner washer.
-bolt-on front engine mount to tranny (4 14mm bolts 1 17mm bolt and nut)
- Be sure to put in the fuel filter at this time. It is beside the top tranny mount.

Shifter installation and removal:
-Get inside car and get ready to out atx shifter.
-4 screws, then 2-3 bulbs, then 4 12mm bolts. Atx shifter cable- 10 mm nuts , shifter lock 10mm nut.
-As the shifter lock stops you from turning off the car when in gear. And the cable is loose. You won’t be able to turn your key off and pull out. To solve that, trace that cable to the key hole. Pull on the cable. You’ll see why it won’t hold. Pull the cable, you can turn and take the keys out, cable in, can’t take out. I ghetto rigged it with some rubber bands so it’ll hold in place.
-Install mtx shifter and rod. Go underneath car and unbolt the cat, 4 17mm bolts.
-Push the mtx shifter assembly through the hole. Other person inside car bolts on the shifter, 4 12mm bolts.
Bolt shifter rod to tranny. There should be 2 rods. One for shifting and one for vibration dampening. 1 14mm bolt for the vibration rod. 1 8 or 10mm bolt and nut for shifter rod.
-Bolt on cat. Again. Make sure gasket is tight. 4 17mm nuts
-Get inside car, you should be able to shift into every gear. Don’t do too much ass the tranny doesn’t have gear oil. Install your shift knob on there. Install the shift boot onto shifter panel.
-Put back the panels inside the interior. Shifter panel, center console, steering wheel and column panels.

clutch lines
-Plug the hose from clutch master cylinder to the fluid reservoir
-attach clutch line onto clutch master cylinder 10 mm. Use box wrench for lines
-There should be 2 clutch lines and 1 clutch hose.
-If you want, buy rr ss clutch line and replace clutch hose with that.
-run line along the strut part of the chassis, there should be a white clip for the clutch line to clip onto. It’ll run under the top tranny mount. And onto the bracket that is attached to the tranny mount. The clutch hose should attach to that and the other end of clutch hose on the tranny. From the clutch hose is another clutch line that goes to the clutch slave cylinder.
-Attach onto slave cylinder, 10mm. The slave cylinder should be on the tranny already. The slave cylinder is on top of the front engine mount. It should be against the fork.

axle,hub,members,brakes, bleed
-shove in driver’s side axle into the tranny.
-install wheel hub onto lower control arm, 1 14mm bolt and nut.
-Be sure to put high temp grease on each end of the axle to get the axle into tranny and hub smoothly.
-shove in axle into hub.
-Install steering rod, 17mm nut. Install new cotter pin onto the nut
-Install hub onto strut.2 17mm bolt and nut
-Install (*if applicable) abs bracket and abs sensor(2 12mm bolt and 1 12mm bolt for bracket)
-Do the same to the passenger side, with the addition of intermediate shaft and carrier bearing. (2 14mm bolts if you have a 94-97, 3 bolts if you have a 93)
-Install transverse member 6 17mm bolts for transverse member
-Install crossmemer 2 17mm bolts rear. Install the tranny to crossmember rubber isolator 2 14mm bolt on tranny, 2 nuts onto crossmember. Install to front chassis and front engine mount. 17mm
-install brake caliper and rotor. Along with the pads and brake lines of course.
-Tighten down axle nut onto axle. Tap the edge of nut into the notch in the axle. Be sure to use locktite to be safe. You don't want a axle poppingout on you during driving. 32mm
-Bleed brake and clutch. Bleed brakes first. Make sure you use a power brake bleeder, you will need it as there is too much air in the line for you to do it manually. Go to for power bleeder.
-Reinstall splash guards.
-Put wheel back onto hubs.
-Lower car.

-Plug in harnesses in tranny area.
-Plug in vehicle speed sensor.
-Don’t plug in reverse light switch.. To resolve that, use the 2 wires from the reverse light switch, plug into the to the 1 and 4 for continuity( for the harness in the illustraion below)
-Use 2 wires and jump 6 and 9 to trick the comp, so you can start the car.
-2-3 harnesses do not plug into anything, just leave it

The orange harness that looks like this:
|1 2 3 4 5|
|6 7 _ 8 9|

Reinstall other stuff:
-Fill up tranny gear oil
-Cruise control, charcoal canister, battery, intake.

Start car and drive!!!
**Remember clutch break in period of 500miles.**

This write-up is copyrighted by Chunchoy14 and M(y)x6gr8ride. Any unauthorized use will be prohibited without the written consent of us. hehe j/k. Just give the credit if you use it. :D

Premium Member
1,313 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Finally I'm done typing it up. I wasn't able to find my notes. So this is off the top of my head. All of it is accurate, I might confuse the 10mm bolts for the 12mm bolts, but you should be able to figure it out.

I hope this helps to those who wanna swap. I've been harrassed so much that i was forced to put it on the board j/k :D. So what do y'all think. Good enough writeup? Pics will be available sometime in the future.

Chalk up another How-to in the Projects forum. :tup:

1 Posts
I’d there a way to manual swap a 1997 inline 4 cylinder auto. I have the chance to pick one up for 1500 with only 78k on it. And it’s pretty mint.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts