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229 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
  • Turn regular A-Spec foglights, into the JDM version with blinkers included.
  • Provide JSPEC ownders with an alternative, to let the outer lights stay as running lights.
  • Also to polish regular foglights to go from chipped, faded, hazed lights to clear pretty foglights.
ALSO SEE KING6's post on LED Foglights: Great Minds Think Alike!

Tools Needed:

  • 10mm socket (3/8" drive)
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 10mm ratchet
  • Car Jack
  • Jackstands
  • Patience
  • 400Grit Wet-sandpaper
  • 800Grit Wet-sandpaper
  • 1000Grit Wet-sandpaper
  • 2000Grit Wet-sandpaper
  • Kit Scratch Out (I think Meguire's make a similar product)
  • Bucket of warm/hot water
  • A few clean rags
  • Elbow Grease
  • Around 70 Amber/Yellow LED's ( 3mm recommended
  • Resistors included with LED's
  • Soldering Iron (25-40Watt)
  • Solder (~.030" thickness 60/40)
  • Glue gun and glue (Smaller tip the better)
  • More glue for the gluegun
  • Around 6 feet of wire
  • Drill
  • 7/64" Drillbit (or 3mm?)
  • Wire clippers
  • Wire strippers
  • Quick disconnect or clip connectors
  • Lots of cold beverages
  • Other form of entertainment (Music, Movie, Radio, etc...)
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Reactions: Mr. MX6

229 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Removal + Installation

Removal + Installation: (Sorry, no pics for this part)
  • Jack up the front of the car and support with jackstands
  • Get under the front of the car, look up behing the foglights
  • There will be 2 10mm nuts on each light, one on the left and one on the right
  • The innermost bolt, can be removed using the ratchet and socket
  • The outer bolt will most likely require the use of a wrench to get undone
  • Follow the wiring attached to the foglight until you find the clip connection and undo it
  • Here's where the patience comes in. Get in front of the car, and press the back fo the foglight.
  • You need to push the studs through the plastic of the bumper, while tilting it down to clear the light housing on the bottom.
  • Installation is the exact opposite: angle it down, studs through the threads, clip the connector, replace the nuts.

229 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Cleaning + Polishing

Cleaning + Polishing:

Start by rinsing the lights off, or washing them with warm soapy water. This is how mine looked right after being removed from the car. Note the excessive pitting.

Get the 44Grit Wet-sandpaper out and dip it into the bucket of water. Keep the paper wet while you sand the lense. Go over half the light at a time, and check it often to see if the pitting is gone. It should end up looking nice and hazy like this.

Here's the difference between when through with the 400Grit.

Now sand with the 800Grit. Remember to keep the sandpaper wet, and rotate it often to keep a fresh side of the paper down. Don't rub with the same spot, as the sandpaper wears down rather quickly.

Difference with 800Grit.

Then onto 1000Grit.

Then 2000Grit.

Now take the Kit Scratch out, and apply a little to a clean rag. An old towel is great in this instance, because it has a nice rough texture. Apply about a nickel sized glob for the whole light, and rub it on. Don't apply too much pressure, just follow the instructions here and rubs it on gently and let it haze. Then use the same section of that rag and rub it off. Use a lot of muscle here, and work in small circles. Once you go over the haze, then buff it with a clean section of the rag.

Here's the difference with the Scratch off applied.

So now with the help of sandpaper, Kit Scratch Out, and R2D2... you've got a set of foglights that look brand new.

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Reactions: Trent

229 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Blinker Installation

Blinker Installation:

Put the 7/64" bit into the drill and set it aside for a moment. Take a pencil and mark the back of the lights around the spots where you want to put the LED's. You want to put them in the raised area of the thinner portion of the light. Keep in mind that you'll need to fit wiring and resistors into the mix, so don't put them too close to each other. I put mine each around 1/2" apart. THat makes for 4 LED's in a column for all but the last column or two. You should have about 7 columns of 4 if you decide to go with my spacing, and then a couple columns of 2 or 3.

Now carefully start drilling the holes at each of the marks. Don't be too concerned about the exact placement of the holes, since the number of LED's will compensate for any deviation. Take one of the LED's and test fir each hole. You'll most likely need to go in with the drill again and wiggle the bit around to open it up just a tiny bit more. You want a snug fit.
Here's what mine looked like after drilling.

Now section them off in groups of 5. It might help to circle them with a pencil to keep the sections separate and cut down on confusion.

Now get something to keep you company, because the most time consuming part is getting the leads of the LED's lined up and soldering everything.

Go section by section here, putting the LED's in groups of 5 into the sections on the back of the light. Bend the leads so that they line up together. You want one positive lead left sticking up near the top of the light, and a negative lead sticking up at the bottom of the light. Each positive lead shoudl be connected to the negative lead of the next LED. The bag that the LED's come in tell you which lead is positive and negative. Generally, the longer lead is the positive, and the negative lead is attached to the flat side of the LED itself.

It's easiest to lay the leads parrallel to the casing of the foglight, and solder one at a time. Then clip off the extra section of the lead and remove the group of 5 after you're done. Then move onto the next section.

Sadly, the pictures that I took of this process didn't come out because they were too close.

Once you're done with the soldering.. you should have a bunch of LED's soldered together in groups of 5. You may also have a few leftover holes, each of these will have a single LED in them.

Now you'll be assembling some resistor packs for the groups of 5. You'll need one pack per groupd of LED's. Each leftover LED that will go in by itself, will just get it's own resistor.

Apply a little solder to each of the 'leads' of the resistor packs, and then solder one pack onto each negative lead of the LED groups. Also solder one resistor onto each lonely LED. You want to put the resistors on the bottom (negative), because you already need the clearance for the lamp housing, and you won't need to worry about messing things up when reinstalling it.

Now would be the time to test each group of LED's individually. I used the battery from my cordless drill, which was 12 volts. Any DC battery that's between 10 and 14 volts should work well. Remember that the negative should be at the bottom of the light, and the positive at the top. THe negative should have a noth in the last LED.

Once all of the LED's are matched up, install them all, and get things arranged so that the positive leads are all poiting towards the same point. I used the center of the light, to protect the wiring. Now do the same with the negative 'leads' of the resistors and resistor packs. Solder on some wiring to the positives and negatives, to tie them all together, then attach around 2-3 feet of wire to the leads that you want to be the power and ground.

Make sure that the leads are not touching each other, unless they're the ones that need to be tied together.

Now take out the glue gun and apply glue onto every LED. You might want to press the leads of the LED down with a screwdriver so it sits in firmly and as far as it can go while the glue dries.

Do this for every single LED, then apply glue liberally underneath all of the metal that you can see... under each lead of every LED, then allow it to dry, and go over everything with glue as well. This seals everything from the elements, and keeps them from moving anywhere, cuttong down on failed components from vibration. Once again, test the LED's. You should have an array of between 30-40 LED's that all light up at once. Go over the lights one more time, and check for any metal that is not protected my glue and cover it. You do NOT want to short out the LED's, since it would be VERY difficult to go in and replace anything now that it's glued.

Last step is to glue down any wiring, so that it won't be shaken loose from vibrations, and then let it all dry for at least an hour. Again, sorry for the lack of intermidiate pictures, should have remembered the 3ft away rule.

Now you'll need to splice into the stock blinker wiring. If you've got JSPECs then this will probably already be done, if still on A-specs, and just want another set of blinkers, or to turn your corners into running lights, then you'll need to cut a few wires.

Remove your corner lamps, or in my case, JSPECs, and find the corner lamp wiring stashed in crevice behind the fender.

You want to use the green and black wires. Green is the positive, and black is the negative. Put your connector of choice onto each of these, but remember that you want the running/corner light to still have a ground, so make sure that both the blinker, and coner lamp both have a connection to ground (black).

Now fish the wires from the figlights through the holes, and wiggle the foglights back into place. This takes some time and patience, and is sometimes easier to do from under the car.

Find a place to run the wiring up to where the corner lights are, and connect the positive to green, and negative to black. Before you bolt the foglights back in, try out your hazard lights while the car is off to test them. If they don't work, first check to make sure the positive is connected to green, and negative to black. If they still don't work, check to make sure there's voltage going to the lights with a voltimeter.

If the lights light up, then bolt the foglights into place, replace your headlights/corner lamps, and test each of the blinkers, as well as the hazard lights for a little bit.

Flash On

Flash Off

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